[KDragon]

I have a 2.0 5 speed 2000 NB with 115k on the clock and it has been great (it even has heat!) until two days ago.

I was driving home and a block from my house just after I got into 3rd gear I lost almost all power. I limped home and just checked the codes today.

Here is the list:

p1255
1 17663/P1255 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Short to Ground

p0302
1 16686/P0302/000770 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

p0303
1 16687/P0303/000771 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

p1472
P1472 17880 EVAP Emission Contr.LDP Circ Short to Ground

p1425
P1425 17833 Tank Vent.Valve Short to Ground

p1225
P1225 17633 Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground

p1226
P1226 17634 Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground

p1227
P1227 17635 Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground

p1228
P1228 17636 Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground

p0300
1 16684/P0300/000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

I read about the fuel pump relay so I pull it open and cleand the contact points (look new now) and put it back in. No diffrence.

The car still runs but stumbles at idle till its warm then is ok-ish but if you give it and gas it stumbles until you ease up. Then seems ok-ish..

The only thing I've done in the last week was pull the MAF and clean it with electrical cleaner and was running fine the other day..

Random side note.. Its running a little better with out the MAF plugged in and oddly I don't get a light for that!?!?


I know this is a lot but any input will be greatly appreciated!

 

[KDragon]

Well I found and "fixed" the cracked break booster line no help.
cleaned the throttle body (was not bad) and no diff. I think I smell gas in the exhaust and I'm thinking a stuck injector.

How can i get to this and do a ohm check with out pulling the intake manifold?

 

[bme]

I am still thinking fuel pump relay. Is it known that dirty contacts were the problem? I have honestly never seen a volkswagen fuel injector go bad. Maybe if you can borrow a known good fuel pump relay from another NB owner you can test that before pulling a manifold.


Bme

 

[KDragon]

Ill ask around but I don't know anyone that drives a NB or ever a 2.0 VW at all.

Does anyone here reading this live in the Fond du Lac Oshkosh WI area?



EDIT: I have not done a flow test but I did check power at the pump and its ~14 volts when it should be. I.E. it gets power to prime and power while cranking.

 

[IndyTom]

Did you pull your engine cover and check for vacuum leaks? Those old rubber hoses get old and brittle from heat. The line going to the FPR/Fuel pressure regulator tends to tear easily on the old 2.0 VW's
Also if you haven't done so already change out your Coolant Temp Sensor with a new Green Sensor. The old Black units failed all the time.
Your missfires could come from a Bad Coil. They develope Hairline cracks and then the sparks are all over the place except where they should be. Also check your spark plug wires and pull the spark plugs to see how they look.
How is the hose from the SAI pump to the EVAP Purge valve? Perhaps there is a leak that needs to be fixed.
Good Luck and I hope you find the issue soon!

 

[KDragon]

Thanks for the maintenance tips. I check a bunch of the lines and the only bad one was the hard booster line. I have that wrapped in tape for now (ghetto I'm getting new lines)

I did see a hair line crack in the coil pack but no arc yet.. JB-Weld..

SAI.. I have none WOOT! It was like that when I got the car from the dealer.

EDIT: Ill get a video up of it running some time tomorrow so you can hear/see what I do.

EDIT 2: I have noticed a TON of water buildup in my oil as seen on my oil cap. I don't know if that's related, its been there since I got the car although not as bad during the summer.

 

[bme]

I have noticed a TON of water buildup in my oil as seen on my oil cap. I don't know if that's related, its been there since I got the car although not as bad during the summer.

Very common on the 2.0, but would not cause your problems.

I would probably replace the coil pack as opposed to JB Weld, that will most likely effect the function of it.

Most of your faults are short to ground which is why I suspect you have a fuel pump relay problem, but the coil pack will need to be replaced.

Do you hear the buzzing when you open the drivers door after the car has been sitting cold for several hours? That is the fuel pump.




Bme

 

[IndyTom]

Thanks for the maintenance tips. I check a bunch of the lines and the only bad one was the hard booster line. I have that wrapped in tape for now (ghetto I'm getting new lines)

I did see a hair line crack in the coil pack but no arc yet.. JB-Weld..

SAI.. I have none WOOT! It was like that when I got the car from the dealer.

EDIT: Ill get a video up of it running some time tomorrow so you can hear/see what I do.

EDIT 2: I have noticed a TON of water buildup in my oil as seen on my oil cap. I don't know if that's related, its been there since I got the car although not as bad during the summer.

Muddy brownish build up on your oil cap is a sure sign of a vacuum leak. My brother had this happen to his Passat and I found two hoses that were questionable. Replaced them and Bingo, no more oil cap moisture build up.
You got a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

[Smileybug]

Not necessarily true. Yellow-brown is from condensation and can happen from a lot of short trips. I had it on my 2.0 when I was in college. Cleaned it up and made sure to take longer trips with it and it never came back. Never had a vac. leak either AFAIK. I sure never replaced any hoses while I owned the car.

 

[bme]

Not necessarily true. Yellow-brown is from condensation and can happen from a lot of short trips. I had it on my 2.0 when I was in college. Cleaned it up and made sure to take longer trips with it and it never came back. Never had a vac. leak either AFAIK. I sure never replaced any hoses while I owned the car.

Saw this all the time when I worked at the dealer, it was on nearly every car. I personally think the cause was as listed above. Also I think the crummy Pennzoil they were using may have contributed to the problem.


Bme

 

[IndyTom]

I still bet there was a slight vacuum leak. Condensation happens when there is air entering the system. Could be via the PCV valve or via a vacuum leak. My brother uses only very pricey Motul Motoroil so I am sure it wasn't the oil. After we fixed his leak the brownish substance never returned. BTW, I take mostly short trips in my 1.8 and never have had any residue or condensation on my oil cap.

 

[KDragon]

Sound like I'm going to redo all my vac lines just to be safe.

Cheap and easy

Thanks again for the help and posts so far!

 

[bme]

I still bet there was a slight vacuum leak. Condensation happens when there is air entering the system. Could be via the PCV valve or via a vacuum leak. My brother uses only very pricey Motul Motoroil so I am sure it wasn't the oil. After we fixed his leak the brownish substance never returned. BTW, I take mostly short trips in my 1.8 and never have had any residue or condensation on my oil cap.

I only saw this on the 2.0 and early Passats though I can't remember if they were the v6 or the turbos. The condensation has to be from excessive moisture, which I suppose could provide condensation, but would throw a fault because we all know a leak will.

I don't see how vacuum leaks could cause short to ground faults. Additionally there should have been a system too lean fault prior to stalling.

Hurry up and fix it so we can all find out!


Bme

 

[bme]

Meant to say a vacuum leak could contribute to moisture IF you lived in a moist environment.


Bme

 

[bme]

The fuel pump relay is only $54 on autohausaz.com with free shipping.


Bme

 

[Smileybug]

I still bet there was a slight vacuum leak. Condensation happens when there is air entering the system. Could be via the PCV valve or via a vacuum leak. My brother uses only very pricey Motul Motoroil so I am sure it wasn't the oil. After we fixed his leak the brownish substance never returned. BTW, I take mostly short trips in my 1.8 and never have had any residue or condensation on my oil cap.

I never replaced vac lines and once I started driving more and letting the car heat up properly, the residue never came back

 

[KDragon]

Ill do the lines and relay tonight if I can find one in town.

Also what I.D. do I need for the vac lines and how much? Just a rough idea is fine

 

[IndyTom]

Ill do the lines and relay tonight if I can find one in town.

Also what I.D. do I need for the vac lines and how much? Just a rough idea is fine

I believe the smaller vac lines are 3.5mm ID 4mm may work as well but won't be as tight.

I would still replace that coil as soon as you have the money since if there are hairline fractures it could cause a whole lot of problems.

Depending on your engine code. I assume it's an AEG? The coil could be as little as 86 bucks.

OEM / Performance Parts for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Mini, Porsche & Volkswagen - ECS Tuning

 

[KDragon]

Sorry for the slow update. I just got the new fuel pump relay plugged in. The only difference it made was a can now shutoff the car by opening the driver door (crappy relay I know)

I tried to drive to the end of the block to see if it would throw a code (with new relay) and got multiple random misfires (felt and sounded like it) and fuel relay malfunction lol (after I opened the driver door).

Drove back after clearing the codes (and old relay back in place). stumbled home and got injector 3 short to ground but not the others (the other short to ground codes).

At this point I still am thinking injector 3 or the wiring.. I've had that code in the past and cleared it and never had any other issues with it till now. Also when it idles it sounds like its missing at the same cylinder every revolution.

I have some info from vcds lite..

Also it stated the fuel sender had a reading of 120 ohms

EDIT: I'm getting a feeling that you still want the coil pack replaced..

 

[IndyTom]

Yup, You could have saved the money for that fuel relay and gotten the coil to start with.