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'02 with non-working windows, door locks, mirrors

10471 Views 21 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  austinado16
Hi Guys,

First time Beetle owner here. Just brought it home yesterday after it was shipped from TX to CA.

I've just purchased an '02 Snap Orange Ltd Ed. w/ 5spd and it has the following issues:
-Windows don't work
-Driver's window will open and close using the key in the door, but it doesn't go up smoothly, hangs up in several places and has to be shoved the last couple of inches.
-Lights in door window switches don't light up
-Car won't unlock or lock the entire car and set the alarm horn "beep" with the key
-Trunk "open" button on the door panel doesn't work
-Power mirror switch doesn't work
-None of the interior lights work

-Radio doesn't work and Fuse 42 (Radio System) is blown. When I gently touch another fuse into that location, I can hear the crackle/sizzle indicating there's a dead short and if I were to fully push the fuse in, it would instantly blow.

I ordered a Bentley book for it last night and will have that in a couple days. I have VAGCOM, so I can use that as needed.

In reading another thread, it sounds like this may be caused by a body control module, as well as a door control module? Hope my terminology is close. If so, can you tell me their location? Left footwell?

Thanks, and sorry for the big question. Just wanting to get a jump start on bringing this thing back to life. First order of business today will be removing all the failed window tint that's on every window except the windshield. Gonna try steaming it off after seeing a video on youtube.
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Since you have VCDS/VAGCOM; what are the trouble codes, it should have specific codes and you would be amazed, what specific faults it can tell you (if there are codes). Post up those codes; they can point you in the right direction. I would start by getting a test light/circuit tester and looking for power, once you find power... look for problems beyond that point in the wiring. Here are some factory manuals online; that can get you started on wiring diagrams and locations, testing procedures for electrical components:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals
Thanks for the help.

Did a scan with VAG-COM this afternoon and there were a few engine codes (random misfire, cat bank 1, turbo boost valve) and the CEL had come on at the beginning of the drive home, when I got on the power while merging onto the freeway. I cleared those codes and will check again to see which come back.

Attempted to read the convenience control module and got no response, so my guess would be that it's bad, and that this isn't just a need for recoding?

A new issue has arisen.......new, as in, I just discovered the problem. The auxiliary coolant pump runs non-stop, draining the brand new (expensive) battery that was installed in the car before we purchased it. For now, I have that pump unplugged, so it doesn't run at all.

Did a bit more reading online, and it looks like the convenience control module is located up in the dash below the steering column. Is that correct? We (daughter who's car this is) went to the local wrecking yard today and they have an '03. Good learning by seeing the car (and a few others they had) in various stages of torn apart. Anyway, grabbed all the relays from that big relay panel up under the dash, but didn't know the CCM was there, so didn't know to look for that. Will go back on Mon. and grab it if it is.

Something else is now happening; the trunk lid open warning light is coming on, even though the trunk is closed completely, and locked (we can't open the trunk at all). Almost seems like it's speed sensing, as we heard the trunk lock cycle as we drove away from the house, and the car was speeding up. Do these have speed sensitive locking for the entire car? If so, the doors don't try to lock/unlock, but we have heard the trunk latch being cycled.

Sorry for all the questions. I'm new to the new beetle. Have a ton of VW experience, but it's all Gen3 and earlier. I stopped working at the local dealer a year or so before the NB was introduced.
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You have a lot of different things going on that's for sure! :) Please post the full scan of the VCDS (we need the trouble codes; not word descriptions, please).

You can start looking for the module locations and wiring diagrams in the manual that I linked to.

Some members here have had issues with their rear door locking mechanism; because of a leak that typically occurs from third brake light. I would pull the rear door panel and check the release actuator for water damage or corrosion; also for broken solder joints or other wiring problems. The door lock part # is: 1C0 827 505 E 01C (there is a microswitch in it; that might have gotten water/corrosion/solder joint damage.

Here is a thread; that goes over the disassembly and replacement of the actuator/locking assembly:


Check this link and the links on the page for more info about the auxiliary water pump (for a pump that won't turn off; people are mentioning to check/replace the relay for it):

Thanks for the additional info and links.

Sorry about just giving a brief statement about the trouble codes. I did that because I'm not concerned about them. They were all engine related, and since it runs and drives just fine, I'm not worried about them at all...at least not right now.

I did take a look at the sight w/ all the "free" parts of the manual(s), but didn't find what I thought I wanted, at least not right away.

The aux water pump is definitely a priority, as is the window/door lock situation.

Based on the pdf of the aux pump wiring schematic, the pump is powered directly from the radiator fan control module. 12v comes out of the module at pin 14 and goes directly to the aux. pump via a 4 pin connector. So it looks like I need a fan control module.
The auxiliary coolant pump is supposed to stay on for a few minutes (5 or so, I believe) after the engine is shut off to cool down the turbo. Make sure it is actually staying on longer than that. The on/off signal for the pump probably comes from the ECU, not the fan control module, but I could be wrong. Here is info about checking the module:


The 1.8 engine is also prone to blockages forming in the oil pickup tube for the oil pump leading to oil starvation. Be sure to check that out. There are good posts around from jfoj on the issue.

The central convenience module is located on the right side of the driver's footwell, under the hazard switch, ect. It controls many of the things you are having problems with like the windows, mirrors, locks and rear hatch. I doubt the controller is bad, though. There are two weak links: solder joints on the circuit board in the door latch and the wiring harness between the frame and the door. See these:



Sounds like you have the solder joint problem. I'd fix that and then use the vagcom to track down the rest. There are control modules in each door that communicate with the central module via CAN bus. You likely have a wiring problem somewhere that is disrupting the communications on the bus.
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Thanks for the info and links.

I'm keeping a close eye on the aux water pump operation. Yesterday it did shut off on it's own, so it may be working properly now. I'll keep monitoring it.

RE: the non-working power windows, interior light, alarm system, and power door locks.......

-The trunk lock doesn't work at all via the switch in the door, but I think we do here the lock cycle at about 15mph, when we first drive the car. This was sometimes resulting in a "rear hatch is open" warning light in the dash.

-Power mirrors don't work at all.

-The entire car doesn't lock and unlock with the key. Only the driver's door will lock/unlock. No alarm horn beep either.

-The driver's door window can be opened and closed with the key only. The door switch does not work for that window, or for the passenger window.

-The passenger door window will work perfectly fine with the passenger door switch, IF the battery is disconnected for a few minutes and then reconnected. HOWEVER, if I actuate either window switch in the driver's door, the passenger window will no longer operate at all...until the battery is disconnected and reconnected.

-None of the interior lights work, in any function.

It seems like this is a control module type of problem, because so many linked systems are not working....for example, the mirrors and interior lights. Of course I could be wrong, but I'd be interested in your thoughts.

In that detailed thread about re-soldering the door lock mechanism circuit board, the guy talks about the problem being resolved in the '02 models. This car is an '02 model, so I'm wondering if it has the update and so isn't likely to have a circuit board failure in the locks?

I would think if the convenience module was good, I'd be able to read it via VAG-COM. I can't access it though. Also, I would think that the interior lights and power mirrors would still work, if this was just a door switch problem. But they don't work at all.

I'll certainly check the wiring in the rubber boot between the door and body. I'm familiar with the breaks there in Vanagons and other models and have repaired plenty.
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Just removed the left door panel, inspected the wiring between door and body, and removed all of the lower dash on the driver's side.

-Some butcher has been into all of these areas...of course.
-Wiring between door and body has umpteen repairs.
-Driver's door window began working and will remain working, but then for no apparent reason, will stop working. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery will get the window working again, both with and without the ignition on.
-The passenger door window works, but only via the passenger door switch.

-The convenience module is located directly inward from the turn signal stalk, up high in the dash, at about the same level as the left most dash vent. Unplugging it has no effect on window function...they both still work.

How do I remove the center dash vent area? I have the lower screws removed, and the entire assembly with the hazard button, seat heater dials, etc. Does the big smooth forward-most center section come off first, and then there are screws? I tried prying on the smooth section, but it didn't budge and I don't want to damage it.

What else controls window and interior light, and mirror function? Is there a door control module? Or the alarm system "computer?"

Sorry for all the questions. Still waiting on the Bentley.
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See this for how to take the dash apart:


It also contains info on a future repair that you may be undertaking (blend door).

Are you sure the interior lights are not working? Each light has an individual on/door/off switch. The clear lens is a 3-position rocker switch. Your lights may all be in the "off" position.
Many people have posted about problems with the power windows where they will work for exactly 10 minutes after connecting the battery and then stop. I believe that the problem is fixed by replacing the driver's side door controller (part of the power window motor). See this post:


So according to that thread, the solution to all these problems (for that guy) was replacing the driver's door window motor. That door does have a different inner door panel, and motor, as the regulator isn't held in by rivets any more, all the clips that used to mount the harness are snapped off, there are greasy finger prints on the part number decal on the motor body.
Right. It is not so much the motor, but door controller that is part of the motor assembly. The door controller takes all the inputs from the door latch, window switches, mirror switch and door lock switch and sends them on to the central module via the 2-wire CAN bus. It also generates the outputs for the door lock solenoid, window motor and mirror motors.
Okay, I'm getting up to speed.

I took the driver's window motor off, unclipped the housing, and pull out the circuit board. Of course it looks perfect, even under magnification.

Looks like I'll be buying a window motor. The existing window motor is dated 2000. Could that be part of the problem? Or have these things been CAN-Bus since the beginning?
The 99's have the CAN bus controller. I think the 98's were different.
Small victory: Got the radio working and CCM recognized it and took it out of safe mode.

So maybe this is going to boil down to a dead driver's door motor circuit board.
More progress today. There's an '03 in the local yard, so I harvested the comfort control module and swapped it in.

Now Working:
-make up mirror lights on both sides
-passenger door red/white courtesy light
-radio still works
-passenger door window works via passenger door switch
-trunk switch now opens the trunk
-trunk compartment light comes on
-passenger side interior light and light under rear view mirror come on when passenger door is open, but the driver's side interior light does not.

Still Not Working:
-mirrors still don't work
-passenger window doesn't work from driver's switch
-interior lights don't work if the driver's door is openened
-windows/sunroof don't power up and down with key in the door
-alarm doesn't work

I've got a "good used" driver's door window motor coming, and will swap that in upon arrival.

I'm guessing I've also got bad micro-switches or solder joints, or both, in the driver's door. I'll take that door latch assembly out and apart and see what's going on.
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Finally got the car back together with a use CCM, used driver's door power window motor, and used door lock/latch module, and complete door harness, all from a 2003.

Still no joy, but I can now at least read the DTC's, where before, VAG-COM couldn't access the CCM.

01336 Data Bus for comfort system
37-00 Faulty

01331 Door Control Module, Driver Side J386
49-00 No Communication

01332 Door Control Module, Passenger Side J387
49-00 No Communication

So does this mean I've still got a bad CCM? I tried to look these codes up in the Bentley, and I don't see them listed anywhere.

Any help greatly appreciated. I don't mind buying new components, but with what they sell for, I'll like to fine tune the diagnostics a bit...if you know what I mean. Was hoping to get away on the cheap with the used parts, or at least, get some changes/improvements that would point me in the right direction.

BTW, the car had a China made door latch/lock assembly installed which looked fairly new.
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I think you should check the wire harness connections between the various modules and make sure the correct connections are all there. You will need an ohmmeter and schematics. Also check the resistance between the data lines and ground.
Before I start tracing wires, I thought I'd look at part numbers since it's obvious someone's been into both doors in an attempt to solve this problem.

The driver's door had a power window motor with part number 1C2 959 802C. I had assumed that was correct, and so I just purchased one used, and installed it. Well, looking on various websites, I'm getting a part number that ends in 802A for the driver's door and 801A for the passenger door.

Do you think that could be an issue?

I did pay attention to the CCM's part number, and the used one from the 2003 in the yard had the same part number.

I haven't taken the passenger door apart yet, so I don't know what that power window motor's part number is.
Did you find the problem and resolve your issues? I just did a scan on my car and got this:

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 G
Component: 2K Komfortgerát HLO 0004
Coding: 00064
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3B7E82BA29AAC9C68E5-4AE6

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C2959802A
Component: 2K Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0004

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C2959801A
Component: 2K Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0004

1 Fault Found:
01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System
80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent

Its been raining lately; so, I am wondering if I am dealing with some leakage, moisture or corrosion issues or the classic door latch problem.
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