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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I installed a new OEM driver side door latch and a new OEM window regulator. Everything is working except that the window doesn't drop and roll up consistently when the door is opened. Sometimes it will work as it is supposed to. Sometimes it drops when I open the door but it won't roll back up when I close the door. Sometimes if the window is already down, I roll it back up and it automatically rolls itself back down.

Any suggestions as to why this is happening would be appreciated.

Brian
 

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Try to reset the "pinch" protection for the window.

I recall what you need to do is roll the window down by holding the window button and then continue to hold the button down for another 5 seconds, roll the window up an continue to hold the switch for 5 seconds, then repeat one more time.

Do this with the door and top closed.

Assume at this point the express down feature does not work on the drivers door?

Make sure the express down works on both front windows as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the suggestion. I had never heard of the pinch protection before. I looked it up in the manual and it said lock the door with the key, unlock, lock and hold for 1 second, unlock and hold for 1 second. This did not work for me.

As for the 1 touch function, it works going down, but not coming up. I checked the passanger side and it works both up and down.

Here is a better description of what is happening. I'm in the car with the window rolled up. I turn off the ignition and open the door. The window goes down 1/2". I get out and close the door and the window does not go up. With the door still open, I put the key in the ignition and roll the window up. It goes up 1/2" and then immideately goes down 1/2". I take the key out of the ignition and shut the door. Now the window will roll up.

I don't know if this is related or not, but when I unlock the door with the key fob I then grab the door handle it moves but the latch gets stuck on the striker. I then release the handle and pull on it again and the door will open.

I guess I should have paid the $400 to have the dealer fix it for me. I am out $300 for the latch and regulator that I broke and at least 6 hours of my life lost!
 

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Do what I mentioned.

What you have found in the owners manual will not work.

The pinch protection is not set, this is why the auto up function does not work.

Once the pinch protection is reset, the window should go back up as expected.

Get in the car, door and top closed, engine running, roll drivers window fully up and CONTINUE to hold the button up for at least 5 seconds. Then see what happens, if this does not reset the pinch protection, window fully down, hold button for 5 seconds, then window all fully up and hold button for 5 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried it several times without success. The window still goes down with 1 click but not up and does not roll itself up when I close the door. Is there something on the door latch that specifically controls the "up" function?

The door latch is sticking now too. I click unlock and pull the latch and nothing happens. I let the latch spring back and pull it again and it opens.
 

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Who did the work to the car?

Was the exterior door cable distance set properly?

Did you try to rest the pinch protection as I suggest?

Do you know for sure you have a convertible window motor? They are different than the hard tops as far as I know, not sure if they will bolt interchange?

Until you can get the pinch protection reset it is not likely the window will raise back up. Once the auto up function is working the window should raise back up as expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did the work myself. The motor is original I only replaced the latch and the window regulator. Could there be different latches for convertibles and hard tops? I will pull my receipt and make sure I got the right one. As for the door cable distance, I don't know if it is right or not. There are 2 threads showing in front of the little nut that connects to the door handle. How do I know if it is too much or not enough? Do you know if I can take out the lock cylinder without taking the door apart?
 

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See this attachment here in this thread - http://newbeetle.org/forums/new-bee...g-down-close-door-convertible.html#post884162

There is a special spring that you "preload" the latch to get the door handle cable distance set properly.

Assume you actually purchased the $130 door latch?

The lock cylinder can be removed with just 1 bolt.

Also as I stated before, until you can get the express up feature working the window will not rise when the door is closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes the latch was $130. You think that spring was not preloaded? That means I need to get back into the door and start over! Still don't know how to fix the express up. I guess I'll disconnect the battery and go back to square 1. Maybe there's a loose connection or something. Should I try and get a replacement latch? Is there usually a warranty on parts like that?

Thanks for all your time.
 

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I really do not think the latch is the problem.

The pinch protection is not configured properly.

But you may also have an issue if the door handle cable is not configured properly it may be too tight?

Compare how far you need to pull the door handle on the opposite door then see how far you have to pull the handle on the door you recently repaired.

As for the preload spring, this needs to be set before you put the latch in the door, but you do not have to use it.

See this picture below on how to properly open the door, you push with your thumb to open the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will check the distance on the other door. If I do need to adjust, you said the lock cylinder will come out with one screw? I assume you are talking about the small set screw? I have read that you loosen this and the lock will pop right out, but I can not make that happen. Any suggestions?

thanks
 

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I am a bit confused here.

If you replaced the door latch, were you able to remove the lock cylinder to replace the door latch? If not, not sure what/how you did it.

In order for the cable to attached to the door handle properly you have to remove the lock cylinder.

Once you remove the set screw for the lock cylinder, you can tap the lock cylinder carrier slightly forward. Do this just before you fully remove the set screw and the set screw will push the carrier forward to release the lock cylinder.

The door latch, handle, lock cylinder, lock cylinder carrier, the door latch are all pretty slick design, BUT they only go together ONE way. You can screw up the assembly and things will not work properly and you can even cause the window glass to hit the handle and carrier parts if you are not careful.

Again, patience and attention to detail are very important here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes I did get the lock cylinder out before but I guess I did it the hard way. With the inner panel partially off I was able to reach my hand in and slide the cylinder holder over and then the lock fell out. I realize now that the set screw does the same thing - pushes the holder over.

The passenger door latch is definitely different than the drivers side. I think the drivers side is too tight. I will fix that tonight. I still can't figure out the pinch protection. It works perfectly on the passenger side.
 

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You do not need to open the door back up to sort out the exterior door handle.

You can play around with the half moon that fits in the door handle groove.

You want to try an match the pull of the passenger side door.

Hopefully you just have the cable too tight.

My picture above I think was with the slack out of the cable just before the door unlatched? It was a while ago since I took the picture and I recall I was trying to show how you SHOULD use your thumb to open the door vs just grabbing the handle because the grabbing the handle does not let the window drop in time to clear the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can't believe how easy it is to get out the lock cylinder. I fought it forever when I had the door apart. I did have the cable too tight. On the passenger side I could count 4 threads before the half moon. On the drivers side there were only 2. I corrected it and now the door latch works perfectly.

I still have the problem of the window not rolling up after I close the door. Yesterday after I fixed the handle it worked 3 or 4 times in a row. This morning it was not working again. I have tried your suggestion about 10 times, holding the window switch up for 5 and then down for 5. Up only for 5. Down only for 5, etc.
 

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You may need to disconnect the battery and see what happens.

Suggest you disconnect it overnight, BUT, make sure you have your radio code. I think??????? if the radio is the original to the car, it may clear itself?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i am going to get a new door latch. Have you done this repair yourself? There is a retaining bracket that is riveted to the latch and then attaches to the inner door panel. The bracket has two black "buttons" that go into two holes in the inner door panel. There are supposed to be some sort of rivet for that but I can not find a part number anywhere. I ordered a new retaining bracket and it did not come with any fasteners.
 

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i am going to get a new door latch. Have you done this repair yourself? There is a retaining bracket that is riveted to the latch and then attaches to the inner door panel. The bracket has two black "buttons" that go into two holes in the inner door panel. There are supposed to be some sort of rivet for that but I can not find a part number anywhere. I ordered a new retaining bracket and it did not come with any fasteners.
Have I done this repair myself?? I can replace the door latches blindfolded after 6 beers!

The black retaining bracket is about $10-$15 as I recall. You will need a single pop rivet, if you order it from the VW dealer you WILL get the wrong rivet. The rivet heat it too large and you WILL need to cut the rivet head in 2 placed with diagonal cutters to get it to fit. You could use a standard 1/8" rivet, but it has to be a long rivet as I recall?

The black retaining bracket has built in center pieces that you partial drive in with a 1/4" punch and it kind of acts like a pop rivet.

Again, remove the latch with the inner door panel, then install the latch in the door with the black plastic latch support on the latch, then you can drive the center of the 2 expansion rivets with a punch.

Most brackets are either broken or cracked depending on who has performed prior work. I had a dealer do one on my car, they drilled the plastic retaining bracket because they had no idea what they were doing, then they used wire ties to put the thing back together. Yes, this as a dealer repair at one point!!!

Anyway you will also need XZN or Triple Square drive tools as well for the door latch bolts.

Neiko 10-Piece XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, Quality S2 XZN Bits - Amazon.com
 

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i am going to get a new door latch. Have you done this repair yourself? There is a retaining bracket that is riveted to the latch and then attaches to the inner door panel. The bracket has two black "buttons" that go into two holes in the inner door panel. There are supposed to be some sort of rivet for that but I can not find a part number anywhere. I ordered a new retaining bracket and it did not come with any fasteners.
Have I done this repair myself?? I can replace the door latches blindfolded after 6 beers!

The black retaining bracket is about $10-$15 as I recall. You will need a single pop rivet, if you order it from the VW dealer you WILL get the wrong rivet. The rivet heat it too large and you WILL need to cut the rivet head in 2 placed with diagonal cutters to get it to fit. You could use a standard 1/8" rivet, but it has to be a long rivet as I recall?

The black retaining bracket has built in center pieces that you partial drive in with a 1/4" punch and it kind of acts like a pop rivet.

Again, remove the latch with the inner door panel, then install the latch in the door with the black plastic latch support on the latch, then you can drive the center of the 2 expansion rivets with a punch.

Most brackets are either broken or cracked depending on who has performed prior work. I had a dealer do one on my car, they drilled the plastic retaining bracket because they had no idea what they were doing, then they used wire ties to put the thing back together. Yes, this as a dealer repair at one point!!!

Anyway you will also need XZN or Triple Square drive tools as well for the door latch bolts.

Neiko 10-Piece XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, Quality S2 XZN Bits - Amazon.com
 
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