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Can anyone tell me which regulator repair kit to get for my passenger side convertible? Pull one from pullapart but it's different than mine. Mine is mounted in the door and not to that piece between the door panel and door. Any help in pointing me in the right direction is appreciated. :)
 

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Call your local vw dealer with your vin number and they can get you, what you need. You can save some money, by using the repair kit; rather, then a whole new window regulator assembly. The repair kit, involves getting the new cables; back on the small pulleys, a bit of a challenge but it can be done. Watch the bentley publishers install videos on you tune, for install and needed adjustment info.

Stick with genuine vw parts, for the window regulators; they are the most durable, last the longest. If installed correctly, will not prematurely fail, like the cheaper chinese knockoffs sold online or from your local auto parts stores.
 

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I did one recently, on a 2005 new beetle convertible; it was a bit over $100 for the front drivers side, from VW with the repair kit (whole window regulator assembly; $200+). I ordered it from my local VW dealer and if ordered, before the order cut off time and is in the warehouse, typically comes next day.

www.parts.vw.com
 

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I haven't purchased one but I would assume, it is fully assembled and you would just change out the old one. Check out FCPEURO; they offer a lifetime warranty on ALL parts they sell and offer both the repair kit and the regulator. The lifetime warranty, could come in handy; if you keep the car long term and when it fails again, your new one would be free. Volkswagen Beetle Parts | FCP Euro
 

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So I called the VW place today. One place said repair kit is $127. If you buy it whole it's $500 and something dollars. Another place didn't sell the kit but had it for $700 and something dollars. Which should I get. 🙄 Lol
 

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Yeah, that is why I always; install the repair kit, even though it takes some work to install it. Cost, definitely; forced the issue for me. The kit is good, it replaces the parts that fail and aside, from the pulleys, the rest is just stamped steel panels.
 

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Can anyone tell me which regulator repair kit to get for my passenger side convertible? Pull one from pullapart but it's different than mine. Mine is mounted in the door and not to that piece between the door panel and door. Any help in pointing me in the right direction is appreciated. :)
You will have to get exactly the same numbers (on the motor) as your one, otherwise the motor will not communicate with other motors. As the Control unit is part of the motor in each door.
 

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what exactly is the problem? mine went out so i thought and was about the replace the regulator when i learned you can just spray the rails/guide with this silicon made by BP blaster in a green can , it did wonders for my window problem. Sprayed it this past December and the problem still hasn't come back. Mine would come up half way or 75% up and stall, then go back down. Sometimes i would have to guide it up with my hand , push it up to get it to close all the way. I know for a fact mine was broke because i had to remove the whole window and regulator to do another repair and noticed the regulator had a plastic piece that guides the cable cracked and loose. Not that difficult of a job just time consuming.
 

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what exactly is the problem? mine went out so i thought and was about the replace the regulator when i learned you can just spray the rails/guide with this silicon made by BP blaster in a green can , it did wonders for my window problem. Sprayed it this past December and the problem still hasn't come back. Mine would come up half way or 75% up and stall, then go back down. Sometimes i would have to guide it up with my hand , push it up to get it to close all the way. I know for a fact mine was broke because i had to remove the whole window and regulator to do another repair and noticed the regulator had a plastic piece that guides the cable cracked and loose. Not that difficult of a job just time consuming.
I wish mine
what exactly is the problem? mine went out so i thought and was about the replace the regulator when i learned you can just spray the rails/guide with this silicon made by BP blaster in a green can , it did wonders for my window problem. Sprayed it this past December and the problem still hasn't come back. Mine would come up half way or 75% up and stall, then go back down. Sometimes i would have to guide it up with my hand , push it up to get it to close all the way. I know for a fact mine was broke because i had to remove the whole window and regulator to do another repair and noticed the regulator had a plastic piece that guides the cable cracked and loose. Not that difficult of a job just time consuming.
I wish I could fix mine that easy but the cable that runs the window up and down broke.thanks for the info tho. Might come in handy one day
 

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I wish mine

I wish I could fix mine that easy but the cable that runs the window up and down broke.thanks for the info tho. Might come in handy one day
Well we have 5 Late Beetles we deal with VW and Audi cars, One of them, you have to remove the fuse to get the windows to work, take it out and push it back in, Voila! they work again, took it to specialist Auto Electrical friends and they said the control units are not communicating with the main unit?we have changed both window motors and all central locking. Still does not work properly, until you can know how or what is communicating to the modules built into the window regulator motors its a lost cause??
 

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Well, the data bus; seems to be "down" and not communicating. That is great info and this is borne out; by the fact, that when you remove the fuse, reconnect it, you are in essence, "resetting" the communications bus to the the window related parts and the controller, others have disconnected the battery, tried a "hard reset" with similar results.

We see these types of problems on this site; pretty regularly and things typically narrow down to a series of common problems:

1. Wiring harness problems:

a. intermittent connectivity issues at the flex point; in the rubber, ribbed sheath, that flexes everytime the door is opened, closed. The wires will break and kill connectivity, all the time or intermittently, in the various devices in the door (typically the drives side; which gets the most use).

2. defective parts: will bring down the data bus; these tend to range from window motors, controllers and other parts, related to the operation of the windows.

3. incorrect installed replacement parts (typically used; from a breakers/junk yard): many repair shops or diy owner repairs; try to save money and install used parts. We see, many of these parts; be incompatible with the car, they are installed into. While, they may physically "fit" or "plug in", the pinouts in the plug or say the controller; can be different or vw made many "running changes", over the years. A part, may look the same but can be in fact, revised or totally different. Detective work, can be required; to find out, if the parts are correct! We tend to find, that junk yards will inprint some markings on their used parts; to identify them, for warranty/return purposes. Also, keep an eye out for the vw part number and typically, on the same sticker will have a production code/date on them. Needless, to say; if you have 2006 model new beetle and the parts production date, for the part is substantially earlier, then the car, you probably have a incorrect part installed! Using the VW parts site; can help you identify, the right part number for the car in question and they also, usually show the older part numbers, after the word "supersession", in the current revised part number, if the part is still available and not discontinued, from vw.

Diagnostics, beyond; throwing and swapping in parts, hoping for a fix, can be helped by using a factory level scan tool, like VCDS by Ross Tech. This will enable you to view live data and attempt, to do output tests, independent of the normal switches in the car and command, these things through the scan tool. VW factory trouble codes can be pulled and while, the new beetle's are older; the built in VW diagnostics, can throw some pretty specific VW trouble codes, that can be helpful, in narrowing down the problem. When, I have had bus related issues; when scanned with VCDS, I have gotten VW factory codes; that indicated a bus communication problem and it indicated, it was in "single wire mode", e.g. data going one way but not back (comms down).

While, there is no magic, per se to diagnosing these problems; having a vw scan tool, vw service manual info, doing detailed visual inspections of things, researching the installed parts for compatibility and working through things, in a process of elimination, can really help find the source of the problem.
 

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Well, the data bus; seems to be "down" and not communicating. That is great info and this is borne out; by the fact, that when you remove the fuse, reconnect it, you are in essence, "resetting" the communications bus to the the window related parts and the controller, others have disconnected the battery, tried a "hard reset" with similar results.

We see these types of problems on this site; pretty regularly and things typically narrow down to a series of common problems:

1. Wiring harness problems:

a. intermittent connectivity issues at the flex point; in the rubber, ribbed sheath, that flexes everytime the door is opened, closed. The wires will break and kill connectivity, all the time or intermittently, in the various devices in the door (typically the drives side; which gets the most use).

2. defective parts: will bring down the data bus; these tend to range from window motors, controllers and other parts, related to the operation of the windows.

3. incorrect installed replacement parts (typically used; from a breakers/junk yard): many repair shops or diy owner repairs; try to save money and install used parts. We see, many of these parts; be incompatible with the car, they are installed into. While, they may physically "fit" or "plug in", the pinouts in the plug or say the controller; can be different or vw made many "running changes", over the years. A part, may look the same but can be in fact, revised or totally different. Detective work, can be required; to find out, if the parts are correct! We tend to find, that junk yards will inprint some markings on their used parts; to identify them, for warranty/return purposes. Also, keep an eye out for the vw part number and typically, on the same sticker will have a production code/date on them. Needless, to say; if you have 2006 model new beetle and the parts production date, for the part is substantially earlier, then the car, you probably have a incorrect part installed! Using the VW parts site; can help you identify, the right part number for the car in question and they also, usually show the older part numbers, after the word "supersession", in the current revised part number, if the part is still available and not discontinued, from vw.

Diagnostics, beyond; throwing and swapping in parts, hoping for a fix, can be helped by using a factory level scan tool, like VCDS by Ross Tech. This will enable you to view live data and attempt, to do output tests, independent of the normal switches in the car and command, these things through the scan tool. VW factory trouble codes can be pulled and while, the new beetle's are older; the built in VW diagnostics, can throw some pretty specific VW trouble codes, that can be helpful, in narrowing down the problem. When, I have had bus related issues; when scanned with VCDS, I have gotten VW factory codes; that indicated a bus communication problem and it indicated, it was in "single wire mode", e.g. data going one way but not back (comms down).

While, there is no magic, per se to diagnosing these problems; having a vw scan tool, vw service manual info, doing detailed visual inspections of things, researching the installed parts for compatibility and working through things, in a process of elimination, can really help find the source of the problem.
Thanks for all that information 'billymade' Yes we have changed the motors from another vehicle and part #'s are different. Hence which is probably the problemo? I have asked my mate to get two motors from a car, the same year, but he's not listening, does not understand it. But in the Polo we found broken wires on drivers door and that is fixed. But, these Beetles are something else entirely, no wonder they have stopped making them. They have numerous faults,(plus dodgy interior which breaks easily,) which you have to spend lots of dollars if you have no Auto Electrical prowess or mechanical aptitude.
 

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Have you invested in VCDS by Ross Tech? It really helps, to have a factory level VW scan tool; to diagnose things and it can bring sanity, to attempt diagnostics with VAG vehicles. If you cannot read vw factory diagnostic codes; from all the controllers in the car and do live data, output testing, etc. it can be a real struggle to figure things out. From the many years of troubleshooting electrical issues on this site; the door window, regulator and comfort control issues, correct, compatible parts are CRUCIAL, for things to works correctly. As noted, many parts LOOK the same, fit the same but are NOT compatible with the different years, production changes, over the years.
 

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Have you invested in VCDS by Ross Tech? It really helps, to have a factory level VW scan tool; to diagnose things and it can bring sanity, to attempt diagnostics with VAG vehicles. If you cannot read vw factory diagnostic codes; from all the controllers in the car and do live data, output testing, etc. it can be a real struggle to figure things out. From the many years of troubleshooting electrical issues on this site; the door window, regulator and comfort control issues, correct, compatible parts are CRUCIAL, for things to works correctly. As noted, many parts LOOK the same, fit the same but are NOT compatible with the different years, production changes, over the years.
I will do that!~ invest in VCDS, At present, I have A 1008 Hantek Oscilloscope great for Compression tests by Starter motor results etc and a scanner for VW/Audi and A Konnwei Scanner which shows what codes mean in U/P and C codes and finding faults. I really appreciate all the feedback 'Billymade' THANK YOU!
 

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So I called the VW place today. One place said repair kit is $127. If you buy it whole it's $500 and something dollars. Another place didn't sell the kit but had it for $700 and something dollars. Which should I get. 🙄 Lol
There is a store on E-bay called Quickparts. He usually has OEM regulators for about 235.00 or less
 
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