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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 NB 2.5, manual, 101k miles- at the end of last summer I was merging onto a highway so I was under full throttle to merge (Hutch Parkway in Bronx so no dawdling, you gots to get up to speed fast) and the car shuttered for about 1 second, regained speed, shuttered again, regained speed and then drove fine for two hours with no problem other than shuttering on hard acceleration. No stuttering under normal local driving, just hard accelerating. I cleaned throttle body (really not too dirty), replaced the gasket and replaced the MAF with a cheap one from Amazon. I just ordered a Bosch MAF. Ever since cleaning throttle body and cheap MAF it’s been downhill. The shuttering is still there, EPC light comes and goes, CEL comes and goes and it now stalls after five minutes of operating. See codes and other problems below that all cropped up at the same time:

P2279- Vacuum leak
P0322- a few items (Crank sensor, throttle body, etc)
CEL and EPC come and go
It stalls after five minutes, starts up again, stalls again and one or both above warnings pops up.
Horrible mpg began with this issue
When driving lights are on at night, left rear taillight goes dark when brakes are applied. Lift off brake and driving light comes back. During day with no driving lights on, brake light illuminates fine. (Brake switch?)
Alarm randomly going off only when locked. Replaced a dead battery and hasn’t happened again (that I know of) but I don’t trust it.

I am driving myself crazy researching all the possibilities. Throttle body &/or TPS went bad, cheap MAF, crankshaft sensor, PCV, intake temp sensor (car stalls a few minutes after coming up to temp). I’ve ordered a Bosch MAF, Bosch coil packs and NGK spark plug kit from FCP but I know this won’t fix the shuttering/stalling/warning indicators randomly firing.
Any thoughts or experiences greatly appreciated before I spend a ton of money to have it towed and a garage deal with it are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

· 5/23/10 <3
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I would definitely start with addressing those codes. Have you done a test for vacuum leaks? Crank sensor is also known to cause stalling.

VWs also don't like off-brand MAFs so I would think the Bosch unit may help fix some things, especially since a lot of issues started after the replacement.
 

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The intake vacuum leak, could be a pcv leak; which is common with the 2.5L and a pcv repair kit is a cheap fix:


If you installed a non VW/Bosch MAF; i would remove it and reinstall it on the car.


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The crank sensor code; typically, indicates it is failing and should be replaced (stick with oem Bosch sensors).


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve got some leads to chase down, thank you folks! I’ll update when I do the above methods. Can’t hurt to do them all I suppose. I thought I read the PCV is built into the valve cover? I’ll have to check that out. I was going to do the valve cover gasket but I’ve never done one. Yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well there’s no way I can get much more done with a really bad back so off it goes to a VW specific garage tomorrow. Here’s a weird thing, I had tail light/brake light issues and replaced the housing, sockets and bulbs for each side. Problem persisted so I did the brake switch and all is good. At the same time, the EPC light is gone. Today I took it around the neighborhood a few times and suddenly check engine light is gone along with no stalling issues. In fact she went like a rocket ship with zero issues. Bizarre. Could the brake switch have been causing EPC light and stalling? I can’t imagine that but it’s a German car so….
 

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A bad brake switch, will cause the EPC to come on; as to your other drivability issues, we didn’t get anywhere with that? What are the current trouble codes and did you end up, replacing the pcv diaphragm or maf?


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A bad brake switch, will cause the EPC to come on; as to your other drivability issues, we didn’t get anywhere with that? What are the current trouble codes and did you end up, replacing the pcv diaphragm or maf?


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As of tonight no more progress pcv or maf. Wrote a detailed list of issues, trouble codes (0332 and 227 I believe). The arctic temps are back, work is overwhelming so I’m throwing in the towel and taking it to a VW specific shop tomorrow. I’ll pay, I miss driving the ol girl. She ran great today, no lights on dash, loads of pep.
 

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Ok, seems the same codes are currently present: when any repairs or parts are swapped, clear codes and recheck, to confirm repairs, problems are solved.

Let us know, the results of the VW shop’s diagnostic and repairs. Thanks.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well the garage replaced the crank sensor and the shutter upon acceleration and stalling is fixed. I also had them install Bosch coils and NGK plugs from FCP. While doing that they found the old plugs swimming in oil so they did the valve cover gasket. In addition I had new rear pads, rotors and calipers done which also fixed the sticking e brake.
I drive fifteen minutes home and check engine light cones on as I pull into driveway. Ran great on the way home. I let it sit and restarted, rough idle and stinky exhaust then cleared up and idles fine with cel present. My cheap scanner still has code 0322 as stored and now has 0068 and 0101 as pending.
I read through some threads on the 0101 maf code. I did install an aftermarket no name months ago so I’ll order a Bosch. If it’s the pigtail I’m screwed because that’s beyond my meager abilities. Feeling so defeated. I was so excited driving home and then it kicked me again.
 

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A cheap non Bosch aftermarket maf; is a known cause of drivability problems. and relayed trouble codes

You might clear the codes or do a hard reset; take another test drive and see if any come back?

As to ongoing issues; the shop did a bunch of work, i’m sure a substantial repair bill; conventional thinking, would be to return the car and have them complete the repairs.

Or you want to fix things yourself; more testing and diagnostics, would be required. Let us know, how you want to proceed and we can go from there.

PS: what scan tool are you using?


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you for the links and info, going to check them out tonight. We are expecting one to two feet of snow tonight so I’ll try and get another ride in before the storm. I just moved the car in the driveway, started up with unsteady idle and then smoothed out in 4-5 seconds, runs/idles like a champ after those first few seconds. This garage has very fair pricing but not sure I want to go back. I’m going to for sure check those links later, order a proper maf and will check in. Appreciate the help!
 

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Looks pretty basic but live data/graphing, might help with some testing:



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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As much as I hate to call the garage again (I don’t think they were thrilled working on a Beetle) I will call them tomorrow. Spent enough $ with them so whatever…started the car tonight and idle kept wanting to stall but would recover and then smoothed out after 10 seconds. I grabbed that scanner and 12 codes pop up, some duplicates:

0300 (x2)- random cylinder misfire
0322- ignition failure sensor
0302- cylinder 2 misfire
0304- cylinder 3 misfire
0305-cylinder 5 misfire
0101- Maf not getting power/wire to pin)

I got my code definitions from Google but the other thing is, the speedometer kept bouncing around until the idle smoothed out. I took it for a good ride around the neighborhood and zero issues, peppy, no idle issues when stopping. Now I did supply them with Bosch coil packs and NGK spark plugs, just confirmed with fox that I got the correct ones.

I’ll give an update soon.
 
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