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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem with the a/c. When I just turn the key on, turn a/c on with the cabin fans on high the radiator fans do nothing. All fuses are ok. Trying to find the fan controller for this model, its not under the battery. It looks to be attached to a radiator fan. I have a part number VDO FA70829 which is $715 at Oreillly's. Does anybody know how to test the old fan to see if it is indeed bad ? I'd hate to drop $715 on a non refundable part I don't need. Any help appreciated. Thanks

The a/c will work as long as you are rolling at a good speed.
 

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I have a problem with the a/c. When I just turn the key on, turn a/c on with the cabin fans on high the radiator fans do nothing. All fuses are ok. Trying to find the fan controller for this model, its not under the battery. It looks to be attached to a radiator fan. I have a part number VDO FA70829 which is $715 at Oreillly's. Does anybody know how to test the old fan to see if it is indeed bad ? I'd hate to drop $715 on a non refundable part I don't need. Any help appreciated. Thanks

The a/c will work as long as you are rolling at a good speed.
I had a similar problem just after I bought the car from a dealer the car went back 3 or 4 times with similar problems the dealer even put a new A/C compressor in the car and still had the same problems.
My problem turned out to be dirty electrical fittings stoping the fan from working, I think it was to do with the HP switch.
Does the car over heat?
If it doesn't over heat that is a indication that the cooling fan is working correctly off the thermostat
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks billy, I'm ordering that fan from Amazon tonight. That's quite a savings. Looks like it has the fan controller built into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
got the fan, put the car up on ramps, removed skid pan. Looks like I can drop the whole fan assembly with just four bolts. I can get them all except the top passenger side. Whats the trick to get this one out ? Looks like the whole front end is going to be in the way. Ugh !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
there's no way my hand is going to fit in there. Looks like I have to remove the front bumper cover to get the top shroud removed so I can get my hand in there. No way to get it from beneath either. Loving them engineers right now.
 

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Based upon the service manual pages below; it doesn't seem, like you have to remove the front body panels. What it does mention; is the front end being in a "service position", which means part of the front end can be loosened and pull out, in such a way to give you more access to the radiator/fan assembly. Check out he second link below; for info on how to get to this service position! This is pretty cool; I don't think, the earlier New Beetles had this feature! In This case; I actually, would LOVE this feature of German engineering! They have this "service position" type of thing, on the Passat's and Audi vehicles.

Here is the exploded view:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle L5-2.5L (BPR) (2007) > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module > Component Information > Locations

fan/shroud removal:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle L5-2.5L (BPR) (2007) > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Fan Shroud > Component Information > Service and Repair
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Hey, it's worth trying; it is better than removing EVERYTHING, right? :) even if the bumper has to come off; it better than totally dismantling every possible thing and having to remove the radiator; which I think, is the main purpose of the "service position"! If you get your car into the service position; please, take some pictures, so others can learn from your experience. I removed the bumper off of my 2000 new beetle; it wasn't hard; just allot of bolts and screws to remove, time consuming.... not difficult.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The long ratchets didn't work. :banghead: I believe this is where I step off this VW merry-go-round and let a professional fix it. I'm not the least bit interested in putting this Beetle into service position. Might as well have a new water pump put in while it's opened up. Any other things prone to failure I should think about ?
 

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This has been a real challenge for 2.5 ltr owners. It took a full year to get mine back. There is no clutch on the compressor and the fan won't run if the compressor is either undercharged or the refridgerant control valve at the bottom of the compressor is either stuck or shorted.
I replaced my fan using a tool I kluged together from Harbor freight. It was an 18" 1/4 and 3/8 thin rachet, a 1/4" socket, and a ground down torx bit. Weaseling it in between the shrouding was a total PITA. It took four hours to get the old one out and two more to install the new one. The air and fan worked fine for two weeks then quit again!
There is a four wire connector right near the starter motor. One of the conductors in that connector had failed. Splitting the connector, cleaning the connectors with cramolin finally cured the problem.
Don't let the stealership tell you that you need a compressor because the control valve is stuck or shorted! You can get a new valve from Polor Bear Inc. in Ft Lauderdale ,Fla. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This has been a real challenge for 2.5 ltr owners. It took a full year to get mine back. There is no clutch on the compressor and the fan won't run if the compressor is either undercharged or the refridgerant control valve at the bottom of the compressor is either stuck or shorted.
I replaced my fan using a tool I kluged together from Harbor freight. It was an 18" 1/4 and 3/8 thin rachet, a 1/4" socket, and a ground down torx bit. Weaseling it in between the shrouding was a total PITA. It took four hours to get the old one out and two more to install the new one. The air and fan worked fine for two weeks then quit again!
There is a four wire connector right near the starter motor. One of the conductors in that connector had failed. Splitting the connector, cleaning the connectors with cramolin finally cured the problem.
Don't let the stealership tell you that you need a compressor because the control valve is stuck or shorted! You can get a new valve from Polor Bear Inc. in Ft Lauderdale ,Fla. Good Luck!

sounds like the same ratchet I bought last weekend. do you have a pic of the tool you ground down ?

The fan and the a/c work when the motor gets up to temp, I'm pretty sure it is supposed to come on with the a/c on and the key on with car not running ? Is that correct ? I saw a sticky somewhere around one of these forums but cant remember where.

This connector you split, were you able to reach it from under the car easily ? I may have to have a second go at this :banghead:

Thanks for the info, it gives me hope haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
bit the bullet and took her to the vw dealer as the local techs seem confused about this car or just didnt want to tell me any of the secrets.

Dealer said it needs a new compressor, expansion valve and receiver/dryer "prior to further troubleshooting" for a mere $1248 and then there is no guarantee that fixes it.

Then they proceeded to give her more bad news, outer cv boot is split and the vacuum pump is leaking for another $1400.

LoL now I see why nobody wants to tell me how this car is supposed to function. It's a very lucrative business fixing used Beetles

I've got the procedure to fix the vacuum pump and replace the cv shaft. Looking in the manual I cant find the procedure to replace the compressor. Do I need to put the car in service mode and pull the front end off or can it be done some other way ? The compressor on this '07 is on the top of the motor instead of at the bottom so '06 and older techniques are of no use to me. Any ideas or experience appreciated .
 

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1. I would get a second opinion on tha/c issues; I ran into a issue with a valve that is inside the compressor on the later models (clutch less type; internal valve failure is common). It used to be; that you had to replace the whole compressor, now the aftermarket sells just the valve. You might investigate; which compressor you have, see if replacing the valve might help or find out, if that possibly be your problem? The approach of replacing everything; isn't really diagnosing the problem correctly.

2. Cv boot split: if the cv is ok, you can just replace the boot and regrease the cv, put it back together (if you go that route; I would replace both at the same time). They also; sell individual cv joints; Ina repair kit, that just replaces, the bad cv and boot. Get a high quality kit; like the OE GKN. Check with autohausarizona; they carry GKN.

3. The air pump; for the 2.5 is expensive but USP Motorsports; makes a delete kit, that eliminates the problem, plus it's cheaper.


Spulen 2.5L Brake Vacuum Pump Delete Kit

The braking system on your vehicle requires constant vacuum to assist in applying the brakes. Traditionally this vacuum is achieved by plumbing the brake booster to the engine’s intake manifold. This provides the needed vacuum to assist in applying the brakes.

However, vehicles equipped with the 2.5L engine do not receive vacuum from the intake manifold. Instead the 2.5L engine is equipped with an external vacuum pump to provide the necessary vacuum. The vacuum pump design has numerous disadvantages including decreased power output from increased parasitic engine drag, the pumps oil seals are prone to failure and cause significant oil leaks, and a replacement pump cost upwards of $350.

The Spulen Brake Vacuum Pump Delete Kit addresses all of these disadvantages. The Spulen kit eliminates the factory pump using a block off plate. The brake booster is then plumbed to the intake manifold using custom silicone hoses. As an added benefit the include silicone hose replaces the factory plastic PCV hose which is prone to cracking.

Complete installation instructions are available below and each kit includes all necessary hardware to eliminate the factory brake vacuum pump.



1.50# 10.00x5.00x3.00
Brand:
Part #:SE-095
Our price:$99.99

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Spulen-2.5L-Brake-Vacuum-Pump-Delete-Kit.html


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
latest update on the a/c .... after two years with no a/c my daughter said it needs fixin this year. So I took it to a friends shop and he replaced the compressor. In and out in a day and the a/c is cold again. Daughter paid the bill. I'm kinda liking this let someone else fix this german piece of engineering deal. I'm still stuck with the new fan assembly but at least I don't have to think about the a/c anymore. Last item on the list ...vacuum pump leak. Might look into that delete kit, or I might just let it leak some more. One day maybe she'll trade in the ole heap :D
 
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