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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1.8 T Engine Rebuild

I have done compression test on all for cylinders
the numbers are 150 60 60 90 it will never start
with numbers like this. Also i noticed water coming
out of cylinder 1 meaning head gasket and the water
pump is bad. I have tested coil packs they all have
spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Get your self a copy before you begin.

I,m not going to go over every thing step by step

you should have the book in front of you.

I did my removal a little different as i did

not want to brake the factor clamps to vacuum

hose connections.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Should really have the Bentley over a Hanes to be honest. Costs more, but its well worth it.

Good luck with the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks very helpful information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It is a tube pipe that is pushed in to the oil filter adapter
and will have to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
AWV 1.8L Turbo gasoline 2001 and later


D2Beetle I have a question
the cylinder head bolts are Hex correct?
I have Ball End Hex Key Metric and Standard
Craftsman set but when i apply it to the Hex bolts I'm
only able to use the ball end because of clearance
and there is to much slop. The question : Is there a
special tool i need to remove the cylinder head bolts

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
9mm ribe

Hello all if you are trying to remove the cylinder head
i will save you a lot of wasted time running around to
look for this special bolt removal tool.I went to

Auto Zone Don't Have it

Advanced Auto Don't Have it

Harbor Freight Don't Have it

Sears Hardware Don't Have it

Home Depot Don't Have it

Volks Wagon Dealer Don't Sell Tools

Final I went to a NAPA

The Tool is 9MM RIBE Part 9260

VW/AUDI/PORSCHE

This tool is 1/2 drive so when you reinstall
your cylinder head Just put on your 1/2 drive
torque wrench.

I hope this Helps
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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I kinda figured that it was not an APH, as there were subtle differences between your pics and mine.

I'm glad that you found the tool. I actually have two and did not know that tool pattern was called a "ribe". I think the nearest NAPA is in the next county over for me.

I did manage to find the oil cooler bolt socket at Ace Hardware.
 

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How many miles?

How many miles on the car? Did it over heat?

Thanks for posting the pix... I'll be watching this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The NB has 137,000 miles on it . I'm not sure what happened to it because I bought it from a guy who didn't want to pay the mechanic shop near me for a used engine (@ 2300). He was going to sell it for parts and I got it for 1000 The only thing he told me was that a light came on and he kept on driving it until it wouldn't run any more.
 

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The NB has 137,000 miles on it . I'm not sure what happened to it because I bought it from a guy who didn't want to pay the mechanic shop near me for a used engine (@ 2300). He was going to sell it for parts and I got it for 1000 The only thing he told me was that a light came on and he kept on driving it until it wouldn't run any more.
That's funny. Sounds like he was curious to see what would happen.

The picture below looks like a coolant pump leak my NB had a few months ago. It started out slowly and sped up. Your NB's previous owner probably ran the engine dry of coolant and overheated it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes you are right but, there is also the crack Head Gasket
I also want to replace the timing belt and water pump
the problem is going to be removing that bracket to get
at that bolt that is so close to the frame. I'm going
to rise the engine up to see if i can gain clearance and
if not I'm going to lower the engine to see if i can gain
clearance It's going to be a battle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bracket

Thanks

In order to remove that bracket rise the engine.
once you rise the engine you will gain clearance to
remove that hard to reach bolt.There are three bolts
that go through the bracket to the engine block.

I hope this helps
 

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Looks like the timing & coolant pump were replaced. I still can read "Contitech" on the belt and the pump has a metal impeller (right?)... original factory issue is plastic. My original pump was replaced at 105k. However, the 2nd pump started leaking at 170k (only 65k since replacement). Hopefully, the recently installed Graf pump will last longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
This water pump is the OEM plastic impeller one, I'm sure it
has never been changed and will have to be replaced
 

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