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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I see you all rolling your eyes :rolleyes: :D

I apologize,youve probably heard this all before but ive searched back quite a few pages and cant see any threads specifically for this...so...

As many of you may have seen on my introduction thread, im about to become the guardian of a poorly 1.8T 2001 bug....

Poorly as hes developed a nasty smoking habit, im sure this thread will go on to become a bit of a story about him and how he returns to the road, but for now id like to ask "is the turbo really that difficult to remove?"

Without having the car in front of me yet im trying to visualize it, im not fazed in the slightest and theres absolutely no deadline for it to be done to, but i do like to be prepared, i can find my way around the old beetles with my eyes shut but this is the first new gen one ive ever set spanners on.

I watched the two part video on youtube, he mentions quite a few times that he made a mistake or couldve done it a better way so is there anyone out there thats done it easier?

Does the driveshaft really have to come off to drop it out at the end? can you not remove the plastic scuttle below the windscreen for easier access? would the car in the youtube video be different to uk models as its american spec with regards to different tubing for emissions etc? or am i just worrying over nothing...

cheers guys :p
 

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I removed a turbo; from a 1.8T Jetta, I'm sure it is tighter in the New Beetle but I do not think you should need to remove the whole engine. Unless, you want to or need to, work on other issues, requiring engine removal.
 

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You absolutely "Do Not" need to remove the engine in order to R&R or upgrade a turbo in this car...:rolleyes:

Drop the right CV axle at the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well he's here! Had a quick clean,strip down commences next week, quick inspection reveals neat oil on the end of my finger if I put it up the exhaust, tried not to have it running for long.
Is there any recommendations of which turbo to go for? There is a few cheap ones on eBay , do I dare risk it? Or spend a bit more for a decent one.....
 

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First, you could start by removing the turbo inlet and inspecting the turbo impeller for play and/or damage) Are you replacing it with another stock Borg Warner KKK03? If that is the case; you might consider, having it rebuilt or purchasing new (expensive). We had one rebuilt; they put a new "cartridge/center section" put in it and sent it back. In our case; it was too damaged to rebuild but was still cheaper, than a new one (turbo impeller was loose/hitting the casting and damaged). I would NOT purchase one; from a cheap ebay seller, the quality is not verifiable and there are many stories on vwvortex, that they failed soon after install or less than after 10k miles.

Example: genuine BW K03; amazon: for about $750

http://www.amazon.com/Borg-Warner-K03-Turbocharger-Audi/dp/B008UVL0DM

Rebuilding services; seem to be in the $250-$375; depending on if it is rebuildable or not.

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Borg+Warner+K03+rebuild+service

Before installing; a new/rebuilt turbo; I would try to ascertain, why the failure happened. Oil sludge; is a common problem and may have contributed to the failure, this should be fixed before putting a new one in.

This video; should give you a sense of possible sludge issues and areas, that can end up being clogged.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFOqW0x7oiI

If you are short on cash; a good used turbo, would probably be easy to find, since so many people upgrade to larger turbos. Check vwvortex or your local junk yard, as with any used part, your milage may vary. If you want to do it right and plan on keeping the car; new or rebuilt is probably the best way to go.

Borg Warner themselves; offer a remanufactured "Exchange Turbo" program; that probably, would be cheaper than new and offer a high quality rebuild from the original manufacturer of the part.

http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/aftermarket/
 

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I agree with billymade, I would stay clear of eBay, if you want to drastically minimize your chances of having to repeat the inconvenient and time consuming process of replacing the turbo again early on, I would suggest purchasing a new part.

Eurospect Sport has the Beetle KKK03 for $795, I purchased a new KKK04 turbo charger from them and used it for a number of years without issue, after upgrading to a stage 3+ setup I then sold it.

1. The greatest natural but avoidable threats to the turbo are running the engine hard and shutting it off without letting it idle for a couple of minutes to slow the turbo turbines down first, remember, oil is no longer being pumped being pumped to the still moving turbo bearing(s) when the engine.

2. Sludge build up can definitely become an issue "IF" the car is improperly maintained and if organic oil is used sludge build up can eventually happen to those who use organic engine oil long term, or, short term for those who do a lot of spirited driving/racing and are to cheap to use the correct quality pure synthetic oil that is spec'd for these cars, such as Redline 5W-30, preferably 5W-40.

3. Over boosting is thought to be a good idea by some enthusiast, NOT, don't do it, your turbo now becomes a potential time bomb...:eek:..:(

I purchased my Beetle new in the year 2000, Castrol organic oil was run in it for the first 5000 miles, Redline synthetic has been used in it from that point to the present, I have had the oil pan off about three times with absolutely no signs of sludge, grime or any kind of build up.

The picture shown was taken in 2007, mileage was approximately 75,000.

I use the same oil in my wife's 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T which was purchased new, it too shows no signs of sludge invasion.

I also use Liqui Moly #2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment at every oil change and Liqui Moly #2019 MoS2 Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant in my custom six speed manual rally long close ratio transmission and in my power steering system, this product sticks to moving internals like glue, further assisting with the lubricating process and preventing dry starts, something else to consider.

If you feel that you might have sludge or contaminants in your engine, Liqui Moly #2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush.

When you do change out your turbo, it would be wise to change your oil and filter at that time, I recommend either the factory oil filter or the Mahle oil filter which is an OE manufacturer for the VAG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks chaps, I was going to ask what people's views were on running an engine flush through before I started strip down,once I have determined it is definately the turbo at fault is there any way I can block the oil feed to it whilst I do this? If only to minimise the amount of oil/flush being thrown out the exhaust.....rather a lot of smoke already ��

I had planned on removing the sump and cleaning out the pick up etc while he was up in the air ��

Cheers
 

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smoke

ya sure it's not your valve cover gasket? those are prone to fail and lots , lots of oil winds up in your pistons causing the same smoke you are showing us here. My 2 cents on this.

BTW, I have used regular oil since day one and have had no issues, i'm at 200k miles , that's (two hundred thousand miles)
 

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valve cover

Valve cover gasket? You mean rocker cover? Is there any way of checking this visually?
Never heard it called rocker cover. remove a few of your spark plugs and if they have lot's of oily residue or oil in the plugs well then that could be your problem, but that would also give ya emissions codes. Not to mention it would ruin your O2 sensors and catalytic if you're burning lots of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No fault codes as yet. Car starts and idles lovely,cat and sensors probably knackered already due to the amount of oil in the rear pipe......
Will check tomorrow :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well my hopes of any easy fix have been dashed,had the plugs out this morning,clean as a whistle in the tubes, plugs had a tiny bit of oily residue on the igniter but nothing that didn't wipe off.......
So he's been put in the garage, tomorrow I will strip out all the gubbins and get to the turbo........
 

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removal

Well my hopes of any easy fix have been dashed,had the plugs out this morning,clean as a whistle in the tubes, plugs had a tiny bit of oily residue on the igniter but nothing that didn't wipe off.......
So he's been put in the garage, tomorrow I will strip out all the gubbins and get to the turbo........
Removing the wiper cowl and the metal rain guard under that will give you more room to work back there by the firewall, fyi
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Made a start today,top end all dismantled, so far so good,no oil in the air intake pipe,no oil in the inter cooler pipe,all Pcv system appears clean and oil free.....haven't made contact with the turbine in the turbo as yet so can't tell you if that's knackered or not........
Up in the air tomorrow to remove driveshaft and exhaust to turbo bolts.......before hopefully removing....






 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got a bit more done today,the turbo is all off apart from one little pipe just by the air intake which I'm assuming is the oil intake? Not sure yet how I'm supposed to access this,does the whole manifold need to come off? As it seems to be attached under there.I've taken the three bolts out the manifold and it's dropped a bit.Looks like an allen/hex key but also very tight in there.
The outlet on the turbo and my exhaust is very oily so I'm guessing that's what's gone as all the intake and inter cooler pipes are clear.
Any tips anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Right well initial impressions look like my oil return pipe to the sump was crudded up quite bad, so I'm guessing this caused pressure in the turbo to blow the oil seal as the turbines themselves are ok.....what do you guys reckon? I can't see any other reason to be honest....
 
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