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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a 2000 VW Beetle with the 1.9 TDI engine. A few months ago I was driving my car and the engine shut off on the highway. The weather was bad and it was cold so I thought it might have something to do with that. I tried to start it back up but it wouldn't start. I looked online and found a suggestion to unplug the MAF sensor. I did that and I was able to get the car home. The next day I plugged the sensor in and the car ran fine. Recently I was having similar issues so I replaced the MAF sensor but that didn't fix the problem.

Currently the car doesn't always start when I try to crank it. If it does start it will usually shut of if I give it some throttle, if I let it warm up it will often run better. I have a Ross-Tech cable and was checking some values with VCDS. It appears that the expected and actual boost values for the turbo are not the same. When I give it throttle the expected boost value goes up but the actual boost value doesn't change at all. On VCDS I checked for fault codes and did an auto-scan but nothing that came up looks like it is related to the problem.

What should I do to troubleshoot the problem?
 

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You said no codes related, but what did come up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's the log. It's for the heated mirrors, window switches, and some air bag stuff.

Code:
Wednesday,27,April,2022,19:06:29:42197
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 22.3.1.4 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4615.4
Data version: 20220407 DS337.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


Mileage: 181470km-112760mi   Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1C - VW New Beetle (1998 > 2010)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 29 35 37 39 46 54 56 65 75
 
   Mileage: 181470km-112760miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
   Part No: 038 906 012 N
   Component:  1,9l R4 EDC G000SG  2509 
   Coding: 00002
   Shop #: WSC 00066 
   VCID: 1B63D9D2FABF8D833AD-4B1E

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 1 1 1

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.clb
   Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
   Component: ABS     20 IE CAN  0001 
   Coding: 03504
   Shop #: WSC 00066 
   VCID: 3E253046496DF8ABFD3-4B3C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
   Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
   Component: 06 AIRBAG VW5       0003 
   Coding: 12342
   Shop #: WSC 00066 
   VCID: 35372F6A7C5B3BF32C9-4B3C

4 Faults Found:
00655 - Seat Belt Tensioner Igniter; Passenger Side (N154)
            32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
            32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 1C0-920-xx0.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 920 901 A
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V02 
   Coding: 03202
   Shop #: WSC 00050 
   VCID: 1A6DDCD6F585F48B21B-4B1E

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: Ident
   Component: Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0X8252381 
   Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0X8252381

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.clb
   Part No: 6N0 909 901
   Component: Gateway K<->CAN    V022 
   Coding: 00006
   Shop #: WSC 00066 
   VCID: 70B9DE7E43B95EDB3FF-4B1E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
   Component: 5X Zentral-SG Komf. 0001 
   Coding: 00256
   Shop #: WSC 00066 
   VCID: 065598A6513D606BF53-4B1E

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J2959802C
   Component: 5X Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r 

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J2959801D
   Component: 5X Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r 

4 Faults Found:
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4)
            35-00 - -
00913 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Right Driver (E81)
            27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00933 - Electric Window Motor; Passenger Side (V148)
            62-10 - No or Incorrect Adjustment - Intermittent
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)
            35-00 - -

End----------(Elapsed Time: 03:46, VBatt start/end: 14.2V/14.2V)-----------
 

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When you turn the key on to glow your car, does the glow plug light come on?

If not you need a new 109 relay, yours is likely a black colored relay the newer ones are grey. The 109 can be found directly above your feet in the relay panel under the dash. There is a 377 relay (wiper) it’s the biggest relay the 109 will be hidden directly above it. Revolve the 377 pay attention to the orientation of the relay you need to put it back in in the same position that it came out. Likewise pay attention to the lug positions on the 109 when you take it out as the new one will need to go in exactly like the old one.

If your glow plug light comes on make sure your anti shudder valve is open. That’s the little arm up on your egr. The ASV gets sticky and when it sticks shut your car will not start. The valve is supposed to open when you turn your car off so it’s ready to start next time you need it to.

Whitedogs “no start” thread.



Your turbo is a different issue altogether.

Canadian Grizzly s low power/limp mode troubleshooting thread.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I turn on the key the glow plug light comes on for a brief moment and then shuts off . I looked at the ASV earlier today and it was open. Most of the time to car will start, it's only occasionally it take a few tries to start or it will start and shut off after a second or two of running.

I'll take at that troubleshooting thread.
 

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Glow plug coming on for a brief second or two is about right for this time of year. Above 40* the glow plugs aren’t really needed. A failing crank sensor can cause intermittent shutdowns and sometimes will not throw a code, at least right away. Are there any pending codes?

How does your 2000 beetle tdi have only 112k miles on it? My daughters 01 beetle tdi is well over 200k and my 2005 Golf tdi is at 430k and counting.
 

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Rereading your post about the turbo part if you are not driving the car boost will not happen, the turbo only works as you put it under load. Take the car for a drive with someone, have them drive while you watch the boost graph. As you noted the expected /requested vs actual should follow each other pretty close.

Is there any wetness, as in diesel leaking around or under the injection pump? If the car starts easily after being off for just a few minutes but after setting overnight it starts hard then that is most likely caused by air getting into the fuel lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There was at least two previous owners of the car so I'm not sure the history of it. When I got it it had 88k on it. I had a hard time believing a car that old would only have that many miles but it looks like a low millage car so I guess I got very luck.

The new MAF air sensor I purchased is a Bosch.

I've was also getting a negative pressure deviation a while back but I replaced some of the lines and that seemed to help get rid of the fault code. Last night I replaced the rest of the lines that I hadn't done except for two lines which were really hard to get to. I think I did get a crank sensor code once or twice. The only time I got it though was when I unplugged the the MAF sensor so I thought it might have something to do with that. One time I couldn't get the car to run on the highway for more than 2-3 minutes without shutting off. Once I unplugged the MAF sensor it run better and I got the car home. If the crank sensor is the issue any reason unplugged the MAF sensor would help it run better? I already replaced the MAF sensor which wasn't the issue so I'd prefer to not keep throwing parts at it without some more testing first. I'm working though that post by Canadian Grizzly and still have a few things I'd like to try first. If I feel like I'm running out of options I'll probably go for the crank sensor.

I'm not sure the car runs well enough to take it for a test drive. If I feel like it might be able to handle a short test drive I'll try monitoring the boost levels.

I've had to bleed the fuel pump and lines before. I'm pretty sure that's not the issue because the symptoms are very different. When that was the problem it would have a hard time starting but if I was able to get it running in the morning it would be good to go for the rest of the day. This problem happens even when the engine is warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So the problem doesn't seem to be happening today. I unplugged the MAF sensor last night because the car wouldn't start without doing so. Here's the codes I got.

Code:
Saturday,30,April,2022,11:02:26:42197
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 22.3.1.4 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4615.4
Data version: 20220407 DS337.0
www.Ross-Tech.com





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 N
  Component and/or Version:  1,9l R4 EDC G000SG  2509
           Software Coding: 00002
            Work Shop Code: WSC 00066 
                      VCID: 1B63D9D2FABF8D833AD-4B1E
2 Faults Found:

16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
            P0321 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17552 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
            P1144 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Ground

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0
The only thing I did was this morning I unplug the N75 solenoid to test it. I decided to cap off the vacuum hose and run it around the block. I plugged the hose back in and the car runs like normal. I'm not sure the problem has been fixed but since it isn't happening right now I can't troubleshot it. I got some boost readings from VCDS. Here are some graphs. Do these look normal?

Rectangle Slope Font Line Screenshot

Rectangle Slope Font Screenshot Line

Light Rectangle Black Slope Font
 

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MAF reading I’m not sure of, but the boost reading the yellow and green line (requested vs actual) should be much closer and show more movement. Did you take those graphs while you were coming up through the gears to speed or as you were cruising?

I assume those high green lines (requested) were the shift points? Do you have a hand vacuum gauge? Like a mity vac? If so you can check to see if your actuator is holding vacuum and also if the actuator rod is moving through it’s full range. You can also check vacuum lines to be sure your connections are tight and there are no holes in your lines.

I just replaced the actuator on my 05 it wasn’t holding vacuum and was throwing an under boost code (P0299). Your vacuum pump is located on the driver side of the head, there is a plastic hose that leads from a nipple on that pump to the brake booster. Wiggle that nipple, will it wiggle it should not. That is a common point of boost failure or a that or a crack in that plastic brake booster hose.


Back to your sometimes starting issue a flaky crank sensor can cause starting issues.

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?


The only thing I did was this morning I unplug the N75 solenoid to test it. I decided to cap off the vacuum hose and run it around the block. I plugged the hose back in and the car runs like normal. I'm not sure the problem has been fixed but since it isn't happening right now I can't troubleshot it. I got some boost readings from VCDS. Here are some graphs. Do these look normal?
 

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Hello, I have a 2000 VW Beetle with the 1.9 TDI engine. A few months ago I was driving my car and the engine shut off on the highway. The weather was bad and it was cold so I thought it might have something to do with that. I tried to start it back up but it wouldn't start. I looked online and found a suggestion to unplug the MAF sensor. I did that and I was able to get the car home. The next day I plugged the sensor in and the car ran fine. Recently I was having similar issues so I replaced the MAF sensor but that didn't fix the problem.

Currently the car doesn't always start when I try to crank it. If it does start it will usually shut of if I give it some throttle, if I let it warm up it will often run better. I have a Ross-Tech cable and was checking some values with VCDS. It appears that the expected and actual boost values for the turbo are not the same. When I give it throttle the expected boost value goes up but the actual boost value doesn't change at all. On VCDS I checked for fault codes and did an auto-scan but nothing that came up looks like it is related to the problem.

What should I do to troubleshoot the problem?
What does the code say?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
MAF reading I’m not sure of, but the boost reading the yellow and green line (requested vs actual) should be much closer and show more movement. Did you take those graphs while you were coming up through the gears to speed or as you were cruising?

I assume those high green lines (requested) were the shift points? Do you have a hand vacuum gauge? Like a mity vac? If so you can check to see if your actuator is holding vacuum and also if the actuator rod is moving through it’s full range. You can also check vacuum lines to be sure your connections are tight and there are no holes in your lines.

I just replaced the actuator on my 05 it wasn’t holding vacuum and was throwing an under boost code (P0299). Your vacuum pump is located on the driver side of the head, there is a plastic hose that leads from a nipple on that pump to the brake booster. Wiggle that nipple, will it wiggle it should not. That is a common point of boost failure or a that or a crack in that plastic brake booster hose.


Back to your sometimes starting issue a flaky crank sensor can cause starting issues.

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
I drove the car for about 30 miles on Saturday with no issue. When I parked the car for the day the engine died right before I was going to shut it off and had some trouble starting and dying like it did before. Sunday I drove it a little but it would die a lot. I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor because I got another code for it but that didn't seem to make a difference. Currently the car won't start at all.

I took the boost readings while speeding up and while cruising. Look at the red rmp indicator to to see when I was changing gears. The high spikes in the green line were when I was giving hard acceleration.

Where is the actuator rod? Is it near the vacuum line that goes to the bottom of the engine on the passenger side? I don't have a mighty vac but I could get one if needed. I saw on Canadian Grizzly's post that it could be checked just by turning the key on and off so I might try that instead of getting another tool.

I don't think I've ever replaced the fuel filter. I seem to remember checking it a few months ago but I can't remember for sure. I smell fuel when I try to crank it so I'm doubtful that's the issue.
 

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Your turbo actuator looks like this.


It is controlled by the vacuum hose leading down to the back of the engine from your N75 valve. With a mity vac you can check to see if it holds vacuum. The hose leading down from the N 75 is prone to failure and the actuator itself can fail. . In addition because it’s been this way for a while your turbo could also be sticky.

Replacing the fuel filter is a must if you have not done so. It should be replaced about every 30k miles or so. The fuel filter is one of those things that are simple but can be the source of many problems. You will need to fill the fuel filter or use a mity vac to draw fuel into it after installation.

Here is the DIY list at tdiclub.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just took the hose off of the "out" line on the N75 solenoid and I couldn't get it to hold a vacuum with the mityvac. Since it was a line that's hard to get to I've only replaced half of it and spliced it together. I'll try and replace the whole line tomorrow.
 

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That line your pic shows should be clean. Does the nipple that hose is attached to wiggle or rotate? I would remove that hose and clean it and replace all your vacuum lines. Do them one at a time so that you don’t get them confused. Remove one cut a new hose replace and repeat till all your lines are done. Be very careful of the plastic connectors do not break them. Or just check the lines with your mity vac. Do not replace the fuel return lines that run from injector to injector that look like vacuum lines. Leave those alone unless they are leaking.

To access the lines a little easier to the n75 remove the two 10mm nuts holding it to the firewall. Be careful not to drop them, they have a habit of disappearing.

The hose in question leading to your turbo actuator may have a leak but the actuator itself may not be holding vacuum. I linked to a replacement in one of my earlier posts. Crawl under the car disconnect the hose at the actuator itself and apply vacuum directly to the actuator with the mity vac. If it won’t hold vacuum you’ll need to replace it.

If it does hold vacuum then the hose leading to it has a leak. When you apply vacuum to the actuator you should see the rod/arm start to move at 3hg and reach the stop at about 18hg there should be no crunchy noises during movement.

Here is vacuum hose by the meter. You’ll need both 3mm and 5 mm hose , 3 meters of the small and 2 meters of the large.



Also since your turbo has likely not been working for a while disconnect the boost pipe behind the passenger front tire where it hooks to the intercooler which is the miniature radiator looking device. Drain any oil that is accumulated there out BEFORE you drive the car after fixing the turbo boost system. If there is a pool of oil there and it gets sucked into the engine you can have a runaway. Drain the oil, sop it up with rags or paper towels, whatever works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The nipple on the vacuum pump does wiggle or rotate. Does that mean the pump is bad?

There was a line near the egr valve that I couldn't replace because it look like it wasn't able to come off of the part it was attached to. I've replaced all the rest of the vacuum lines. I used regular rubber lines from Atuozone rather than the cloth ones. The turbo actuator won't hold any vacuum when I test it with the mity vac so it looks like my next step is to replace it. I'll make sure to drain the intercooler before trying to start the car again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm looking around to see what other options are available besides IDparts. I checked AutoZone, O'Reilly, and Napa but could only find the turbo with the turbo actuator arm. I found some on Amazon. The ISpeedy for $37 is the one I'm looking at. What's your recommendation? I'd like to save money but since the car has low miles I want to get good part that will last.

Amazon.com: ISPEEDY Replacement for VW Beetle/ Jetta /Golf /Bora 1.9TDI Garrett GT1749V Turbo Wastegate Vacuum Actuator : Automotive

Amazon.com: NewYall Turbo Turbocharger Wastegate Vacuum Actuator : Automotive

Amazon.com: Vane Actuator VNT-15/VNT-17 (A4 ALH) : Automotive
 
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