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I'm looking around to see what other options are available besides IDparts. I checked AutoZone, O'Reilly, and Napa but could only find the turbo with the turbo actuator arm. I found some on Amazon. The ISpeedy for $37 is the one I'm looking at. What's your recommendation? I'd like to save money but since the car has low miles I want to get good part that will last.

Amazon.com: ISPEEDY Replacement for VW Beetle/ Jetta /Golf /Bora 1.9TDI Garrett GT1749V Turbo Wastegate Vacuum Actuator : Automotive

Amazon.com: NewYall Turbo Turbocharger Wastegate Vacuum Actuator : Automotive

Amazon.com: Vane Actuator VNT-15/VNT-17 (A4 ALH) : Automotive

Chinese junk you will regret buying.
 

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Here is how to fix the vacuum pump without buying a new one.

 

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Hello, I have a 2000 VW Beetle with the 1.9 TDI engine. A few months ago I was driving my car and the engine shut off on the highway. The weather was bad and it was cold so I thought it might have something to do with that. I tried to start it back up but it wouldn't start. I looked online and found a suggestion to unplug the MAF sensor. I did that and I was able to get the car home. The next day I plugged the sensor in and the car ran fine. Recently I was having similar issues so I replaced the MAF sensor but that didn't fix the problem.

Currently the car doesn't always start when I try to crank it. If it does start it will usually shut of if I give it some throttle, if I let it warm up it will often run better. I have a Ross-Tech cable and was checking some values with VCDS. It appears that the expected and actual boost values for the turbo are not the same. When I give it throttle the expected boost value goes up but the actual boost value doesn't change at all. On VCDS I checked for fault codes and did an auto-scan but nothing that came up looks like it is related to the problem.

What should I do to troubleshoot the problem?
I had a similar problem check your maf plug they tend to break inside and move the pins out of position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I checked the MAF plug. It looks like some of the plastic is broken but the metal looks good. When I was able to run the car I was getting readings from the MAF sensor on VCDS. When I unplug it the MAF sensor the engine still doesn't start so I don't think that's the issue.

I'm waiting for a new turbo actuator in the mail from IDParts. In the mean time I'm going to do more testing on the vacuum system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thejarhead I'm glad you said to check the intercooler. There was a lot of oil in it.

I did some testing on the vacuum hoses and I can't get the anti shudder valve solenoid to hold vacuum. It will hold a little pressure but the mity vac will pretty quickly move to 0. I tested it where the red circle is in the photo. The actuator (number 2 in the photo) works and the shudder valve moves when I put a vacuum on it. Does this means I need to replace the anti shudder valve solenoid? How does the shutter valve work? I'm guessing it blocks off air flow when the engine is shut off. Would it be okay to hold it in the open position by hand to see if the engine starts?
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You may find this thread of interest.

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I had someone crank the car while I watched the anti shudder valve. The valve remains open like it should so that's not causing the no start condition. For good measure I checked and fuel is getting to the injectors. I haven't fixed the vacuum pump yet. I need to find a friend who has a vice I can borrow but I'm hoping to get that done sometime this week. Would anything in the vacuum system(other than the anti shudder valve) cause a no start condition? I'd like to fix the no start condition first and then work on fixing and troubleshoot the other problems. I'm thinking some other parts in the vacuum system might be bad but that would be easier to troubleshoot once the car is running again. Plus I could order all the parts I needed at once rather than pay for shipping for each part as I replace them.
 

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I agree on tackling the no start first. Did you work your way through whitedogs “no start” thread?

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I've looked through some of the stuff but not in detail. I'll do that now. I'm thinking it might be fuel related. Sometimes the car will fire and sometimes it won't. I checked the injectors so I know it's getting some fuel but maybe not enough to start and stay running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I looked through Whitedogs no start thread. Most of the stuff I've already checked or didn't seem to apply. I checked the fuel shut-off valve and bled the fuel system just to be sure.

Several times when cranking it sounds like it is running but as soon as I let go of the key it dies. Another thing it will do is start firing as soon as I turn the key to start but will stop firing after a couple of seconds of cranking.
 

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The number three injector, the one with the wire sticking out of the top. Inspect that wire and it’s connector make sure there are no breaks or bad spots. That injector is what the ecu uses to deliver fuel to the engine.

When you bleed the fuel system I usually loosen the #4 injector nut (17mm) while having someone crank the engine, and when I have fuel spraying I tighten it and go to #3 and so on. I really have never had to go past #3 to get the engine going. Fuel should be spraying out that loosened nut not just leaking or dribbling.

Did you change the fuel filter yet. If not I would try and get it running before you do. Many people when they have a no start they change the filter and compound the starting issue. I would only do the filter without getting it running first as a last resort. Though the filter can definitely be a major issue in a no start situation and is capable of causing a no start by itself. Getting a known running engine started again is always a trick after changing the filter though if you have a mity vac, that can be used to get the filter primed.
 

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The 3 things that a diesel needs to run is fuel, air and compression all in proper sequence (timing). Have you rotated your engine by hand using a 19mm 12 point socket at the crankshaft bolt not the camshaft or injector bolts? Turning the engine over with the upper timing belt cover removed so that you can see the entirety of the timing belt? You’re looking for missing teeth. Do you know when the timing belt was last done?

I stripped a belt on my car because a small pebble got down into the belt path. Here’s the story and what I did.

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The wire to the 3rd injector looks fine. I was getting a lot of fuel when I was bleeding the system so I think I'm getting enough fuel.

I didn't replace the fuel filter yet. When bleeding the system I did drain some fuel from the bottom to check it. I then used a mity vac to make sure there was fuel coming through it again.

The timing belt is relatively new, the previous owner changed it shortly before I purchased it. It was at 88,000 when I bought it and now it is at 113,000. Which bolt one is the crankshaft bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I just checked the Haynes manual, it looks like it is the bottom one. I don't think I have a 19mm 12 point socket but I'm pretty sure I can get one for cheap. Does it matter which way I spin it?
 

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Yes it is the bottom bolt. Autozone, Carquest, Home Depot, Lowes or any car parts store should have a 19mm 12 point socket available. Turn it toward the front of the car, the same direction that it spins normally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I haven't turned it by hand yet. I took off the top part of the timing belt cover off and cranked it a few times to try and look at different parts of the belt and found this. I don't think it's causing my no start condition but is defiantly a problem. My dad and I worked on the fuel pump timing a few months back and had the cover off. I'm guessing the back clip was on the inside rather than the outside when it was reinstalled and was pressing the cover against the belt. It looks like the side of the belt is worn. The pieces of debris that's on the side isn't stuck between the belt and gear, it was just lying on the side.

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