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I don't see a brand name on the belt, only numbers. I checked the records the preview owner gave to me. It looks like the brand is US Stock,
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1.9 TDI 2000 VW Beetle Engine shuts off
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Ok The 3 13mm bolts that are on the pump sprocket look like they have moved all the way to one side of their ovaled slots. To confirm this back one of the bolts out and see where it is in relation to the slot. Take a pic if you want and post it. If the bolts are all the way against one side of the slots then your timing will be severely retarded which will not allow your engine to start. I suspect if that is the case that it would have been caused by not getting those bolts tight enough after resetting the timing.
Regarding the timing belt. I'm afraid that the previous owner put a belt and components on your car that came directly from china. I would change the entire timing belt system out as soon as you get this starting issue sorted. Here is what a quality belt kit costs. Sixty dollars won't even buy a good water pump.
Regarding the timing belt. I'm afraid that the previous owner put a belt and components on your car that came directly from china. I would change the entire timing belt system out as soon as you get this starting issue sorted. Here is what a quality belt kit costs. Sixty dollars won't even buy a good water pump.
Timing Belt Kit (A4 ALH)
Timing belt kit for A4 (98+ New Beetle, 99.5+ Jetta/Golf) with ALH engine. This is a complete kit comprised of OE quality parts by the best manufacturers. It includes all the timing belt comp...
www.idparts.com
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I'll defiantly get that timing belt replaced. That's not something to mess around with.
Here's a picture of the pully. It's in the center so I don't think timing is the issue. Plus when the engine was running a few days ago I checked timing on VCDS and it was within what it should have been.
I think I may have an air blockage. Where the EGR/Anti Shudder Valve are is pretty clogged. I stuck my finger in there and there was a lot of grime in there. I had looked at it before and saw a thin layer on the end of the pipe but didn't actually examine the pipe further. I'm wondering if the turbo hasn't been working properly since I purchased the car 2 years ago. The previews owner said she would regularly drive the car at 90mph on the highway. I've had trouble getting it up to 70mph. With all the oil that was in the intercooler I'm wounding if it's all up in intake manifold. There is oil in the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the EGR/Anti Shudder valve.
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Here's a picture of the pully. It's in the center so I don't think timing is the issue. Plus when the engine was running a few days ago I checked timing on VCDS and it was within what it should have been.
I think I may have an air blockage. Where the EGR/Anti Shudder Valve are is pretty clogged. I stuck my finger in there and there was a lot of grime in there. I had looked at it before and saw a thin layer on the end of the pipe but didn't actually examine the pipe further. I'm wondering if the turbo hasn't been working properly since I purchased the car 2 years ago. The previews owner said she would regularly drive the car at 90mph on the highway. I've had trouble getting it up to 70mph. With all the oil that was in the intercooler I'm wounding if it's all up in intake manifold. There is oil in the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the EGR/Anti Shudder valve.
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Is this the best tutorial on how to clean the intake manifold?
INTAKE MANIFOLD CLEANING 101
Also I saw something about cleaning the Snowscreen on the diagnosing limp home mode forum. I've never done that so I'm guessing that's something I should do at some point. Is that something that could cause a no start?
Do you think the turbo should be cleaned?
INTAKE MANIFOLD CLEANING 101
Also I saw something about cleaning the Snowscreen on the diagnosing limp home mode forum. I've never done that so I'm guessing that's something I should do at some point. Is that something that could cause a no start?
Do you think the turbo should be cleaned?
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The CCV valve has also been leaking. Could this be related to air intake problems? I've replaced it twice but it still leaks. First time I got some cheap brand and then replaced it with a more expensive one (I'm pretty sure the one currently on there is a Bosh.
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CCV should'nt cause a no start. A plugged intake manifold will cause power loss but unless it's completely closed off the car should at least start.
My preferred cleaning method for an intake manifold. 15 minutes and done.
The IP bolts look correct so I think you're ok there.
The snorkel is the plastic pipe attached to the other side of the air box. If it is plugged it could cause a no start or at least a hard start. There is a fine mesh screen in the snorkel that was originally intended to keep your engine from ingesting snow/water. Many have removed their snow screens I have on all 3 of my diesels. I'm not sure but what the snow screen may have been some German over engineering. They do plug up with debris..bugs, dirt and such.
My preferred cleaning method for an intake manifold. 15 minutes and done.
The IP bolts look correct so I think you're ok there.
The snorkel is the plastic pipe attached to the other side of the air box. If it is plugged it could cause a no start or at least a hard start. There is a fine mesh screen in the snorkel that was originally intended to keep your engine from ingesting snow/water. Many have removed their snow screens I have on all 3 of my diesels. I'm not sure but what the snow screen may have been some German over engineering. They do plug up with debris..bugs, dirt and such.
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The intake manifold is pretty clogged. I tried to clean it some without removing it but I might go ahead and remove it and give it a proper cleaning. I'm running low on things to troubleshoot the no start issue and it looks like it should be cleaned at some point anyways.
It looks like the snow screen is hard to get to. I tried removing the air box and reconnecting the hoses and MAF sensor that way I could crank the engine without the snow screen but still getting filtered air. The engine still wouldn't start. I saw that the pipe connecting to the snow filter was cracked and I bet the filter is probably pretty dirty. I'll put the snow screen on my list of stuff to do later once the car is running again.
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I'm starting to wonder if it's a computer issue keeping the car from starting and I might just need to take it to the dealership.
It looks like the snow screen is hard to get to. I tried removing the air box and reconnecting the hoses and MAF sensor that way I could crank the engine without the snow screen but still getting filtered air. The engine still wouldn't start. I saw that the pipe connecting to the snow filter was cracked and I bet the filter is probably pretty dirty. I'll put the snow screen on my list of stuff to do later once the car is running again.
I'm starting to wonder if it's a computer issue keeping the car from starting and I might just need to take it to the dealership.
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Don’t try and clean the intake while it’s on the car, you can’t help but knock crud down to the bottom of the intake and then it gets sucked into the cylinders and can damage a valve.
Is the wire that is connected to the top of the IP still connected and in good shape?
Set the engine to TDC and see if it has somehow jumped time. Here’s a link to the timing belt change instructions. The first order of business is to put the engine at TDC. Hit the orange download button.
Is the wire that is connected to the top of the IP still connected and in good shape?
Set the engine to TDC and see if it has somehow jumped time. Here’s a link to the timing belt change instructions. The first order of business is to put the engine at TDC. Hit the orange download button.
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Ecu’s do fail but not often.
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Unfortunately I've already tried to clean the intake manifold and have tried cranking the engine since then. Is there something I should do or just hope for the best?
What's the IP?
What's the IP?
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Here's a loose wire I found near the air box.
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Can you tell where it goes to? It looks big enough to be a starter or alternator wire. A previous owner may have replaced one of those wires and left the old one.
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At this point you’ll have to hope for the best on the cleaning part. IP ..injection pump.
Did the previous owner give you the timing belt tools I saw listed with the belt kit? If you have those tools I would put the engine at TDC as I said above and see if the engine is still in time. Although one tool I do not see in that kit is the cam lock.
Also I noticed the belt kit did not include the single use bolts that the motor mount uses. You must remove the passenger side motor mount during a belt change, so those bolts need to be changed which means that the previous owner likely reused the old motor mount bolts.
Did the previous owner give you the timing belt tools I saw listed with the belt kit? If you have those tools I would put the engine at TDC as I said above and see if the engine is still in time. Although one tool I do not see in that kit is the cam lock.
Also I noticed the belt kit did not include the single use bolts that the motor mount uses. You must remove the passenger side motor mount during a belt change, so those bolts need to be changed which means that the previous owner likely reused the old motor mount bolts.
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I reread your entire thread. Are you sure the glow plug light comes on every time you turn the key? My old 2000 Golf the glow plug light would come on sometimes and sometimes it wouldn’t. When it didn’t come on my car would crank and crank but wouldn’t start. It would start right up when the light would come on.
Also When you are attempting to start does the rpm needle move to 2-300 rpm on the gauge?
Also When you are attempting to start does the rpm needle move to 2-300 rpm on the gauge?
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The wire is hard to trace. Here's the best I can do without taking a bunch of stuff off. The way the end of the wire is cut makes me think it hasn't been used in a while. I also can't see anything near it for it to connect to.
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The wires to the IP and the IP shut off valve pass a visual check. I checked for voltage to the IP shut off valve and made sure it was clicking when the key was turned.
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I do not have the tools to change the timing belt. Can I just spin the engine at the crank shaft with the 19mm 12 point socket?
I haven't checked every time but is seems like the glow plug light comes consistently. The rpm gauge doesn't really move much when cranking the engine but I usually don't crank the engine very long.
One thing I've noticed is that the first time cranking after letting sit it will usually fire for a couple of seconds when cranking and then stops firing. If I try to crank it again it won't fire any more. It seems like it's getting enough fuel and air to run momentarily and then runs out.
The wires to the IP and the IP shut off valve pass a visual check. I checked for voltage to the IP shut off valve and made sure it was clicking when the key was turned.
I do not have the tools to change the timing belt. Can I just spin the engine at the crank shaft with the 19mm 12 point socket?
I haven't checked every time but is seems like the glow plug light comes consistently. The rpm gauge doesn't really move much when cranking the engine but I usually don't crank the engine very long.
One thing I've noticed is that the first time cranking after letting sit it will usually fire for a couple of seconds when cranking and then stops firing. If I try to crank it again it won't fire any more. It seems like it's getting enough fuel and air to run momentarily and then runs out.
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If the rpm gauge does not registrar while cranking then the likely culprit is the crank sensor. Try cranking and pay attention to what happens if anything to the rpm gauge.
That wire was likely replaced at some time in the past and the old one was just left in place.
How does the fuse block on top of the battery look?
That wire was likely replaced at some time in the past and the old one was just left in place.
How does the fuse block on top of the battery look?
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I found the problem!!
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Is the connector for sale somewhere without having to purchase the whole wiring harness?
Is the connector for sale somewhere without having to purchase the whole wiring harness?
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What connector is that?
VW Pin Removal Tool Set
Set of two pin removal tools. These tools are designed specifically for removing wires in VW connectors. VW uses wire pins that have two locking tabs, one on each side. This tool ...
www.idparts.com
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It's to the crankshaft position sensor.
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That would explain it. Good job finding the problem.
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