[TommyFan101]

It looks like the tool is out of stock at ID parts. I found it other places online so I might get it from somewhere else.

I found these 3-pin connectors. Would either of them work? I know that they don't have the 90 degree turn but I don't think that's need. Then I wouldn't need the tool.
VW 3-Pin Connector
3-Pin Connector 8K0973703

It looks like this is the correct wire. I'm a little surprised it's not one of the high temperature ones.
Repair Wire 000 979 132 E

 

[Thejarhead]

Your best bet might be to take your old connector to the junkyard and see what you can come up with. The connector should be the same across Golf/Beetle/Jetta both gas and diesel from 99-05 or so. Cut the wires or get them to cut them as long as possible.

 

[TommyFan101]

That would explain it. Good job finding the problem.

By the way I do owe you a huge thank you! I probably wouldn't have been able to find it on my own plus you helped me find some pretty major stuff that also needs to be fixed once I get the car running again.

 

[billymade]

The connectors on our VW's; if the original VW part, will have the VW part # on the plug housing itself. If you need a repair wire and plug housing; you can order them, at your local VW dealers parts dept and they come next day, if in stock @ the warehouse.

 

[TommyFan101]

I was able to get the car running again!! I ended up getting the a new connector and wires from the VW dealership. The connector for my car has a slot in the side, the one from IDparts didn't look like it had that. The part number for the wires were 000919021e which I don't think IDparts has either. I decided to leave the 90 elbow on the back of the connector off because that's were the wires broke in the first place.

Here's my current to-do list for the car:
Get the timing belt changed
Change the fuel filter
Check (or remove) the snow filter
Fix the output nipple on the vacuum pump
Check the vacuum system for leaks
Clean the intake manifold

Anything else I should add to the list?

 

[billymade]

Good work; glad you got the replacement, plug housing and terminal wires, you needed, at the vw dealership!

I’m sure, Jarhead, will followup with recommendations,; on what to do next.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thejarhead]

Here's my current to-do list for the car:
Get the timing belt changed
Change the fuel filter
Check (or remove) the snow filter
Fix the output nipple on the vacuum pump
Check the vacuum system for leaks
Clean the intake manifold

Anything else I should add to the list?

I think that covers the important things. One suggestion, when you do the fuel filter, do it by itself and get the car started and running again before tackling something else on your list.

Did you check the timing on the graph yet? That should probably be done before doing a belt job so you have a point of reference.

What is your IQ (injection quantity) set at?
The IQ can be found in the measuring blocks. Just go to measuring block 001 and hit the up arrow until you see it listed.

For the timing graph hit the go button on the measuring blocks for 000 and then the button for “switch to basic settings” after that “graph” somewhere in there you will need to select your engine from the drop down box. 98>ALH

 

[TommyFan101]

I'm probably going to take the car in to a shop for the timing belt. Everything else on the list I feel comfortable doing but that seems like it might be a little out of my machinal skills and I want to make sure it gets done right. I think my plan will be to get everything else on the list done then take it to a shop.

I trouble shot the vacuum system and here's what I have questions on.
I think I need to replace the Anti Shudder Valve. Is it supposed to hold a solid vacuum while the engine is off? When I test it with the mity vac it slowly goes down to 0.
What about the N75 valve? It does the same thing when the engine is shut off. I did the test in VCDS where the computer switches it on and off and tested the out put with the mity vac. It worked fine with the engine running and goes up to about 20-25. It just won't hold a steady vacuum while the engine is off at the vacuum input line.

Here are some graphs of the timing and IQ. Did I select the correct engine? This is with the engine at idle. Since the graph jumps around I took a couple of pictures, one where it's higher and one lower. The IQ moves from 11-13.

 

[Thejarhead]

You selected the right engine. Your timing is just about dead on where I like to run mine, slightly advanced. Better starts, better mpg’s.

For the IQ go to “Meas. Blocks” and where one of the rows with 3 zeros are hit the up arrow. Different values and measurements will start to show. Hit that up arrow until you see “injection quanity” when the vehicle is at idle it should be somewhere between 1-5 sometimes a bit higher if your car is tuned. 1 translates to more power, black smoke and harder to start. 5 is less power very little to no smoke and your best mpg’s and easier to start. With the numbers between being where most run their vehicles. I think my daughters beetle and my other daughters Jetta are both set at 4.2-4.5 or thereabouts.

The asv should hold a vacuum , so yes it probably needs replacement. Is it puking oil out the weep hole on the sides? If not it’s probably not a real high priority replacement.

The n75 should be ok if it tests ok with vcds. If I recall with the top and bottom ports plugged the center port holds a vacuum. That’s removing it and plugging the top and bottom ports with your fingers and applying a vacuum via a mity vac to the center port.

Taking it to a garage for the timing belt is fine just make sure you take it to someone familiar with these engines, keep in mind this engine was built about the same time many techs in automotive shops today were born. They know less about it than you do, that includes dealerships.

Find a vw or euro specialist in your area and drive there and ask questions. Find someone else who owns an early 2000’s vw diesel and ask where they take theirs.

 

[TommyFan101]

That's good, I prefer higher mpg. Here's the injection quantity. It's running around 2.2.

I said the wrong part. The ASV is fine, it's the ASV solenoid that's not holding a steady vacuum.

I checked the N75 valve vac input with the other two ports plugged. It still didn't hold a steady vacuum.

I found the following list of shops: Trusted TDI Mechanics - By State
I live in the Oklahoma City area so it looks like I might have to consider taking a trip somewhere if I want to have a good shop work on it.

 

[TommyFan101]

I just read the following forum. If the information here is correct it looks like the N75 valve doesn't need to hold a steady vacuum. I'm guessing the ASV solenoid might be the same. On my car I can get a pretty good vacuum on them they just slow bleed off.
My N75 Valve should hold vacuum... Right?

 

[Thejarhead]

2.2 is good. I wouldn’t change it yet. Drive it a bit and see how it performs and track the mpg’s, see how they are. You can tweak it a bit with vcds but the best way to adjust the IQ is with the “hammer mod” method. If you take it to a good shop you can ask them and see what they say. Doing the hammer mod requires a triangle socket to loosen the triangle security bolt on top of the IP.

As long as a vacuum is held and just slowly bleeds off you’re probably in good shape. The ecu adjusts the vacuum to the turbo many times a second so unless you have a big leak it’s usually not noticeable.

 

[TommyFan101]

What kind of mpg should I expect? This is what I've been getting.

11/24/2021	40.64
12/9/2021	43.17
12/22/2021	40.96
1/8/2022	39.81
2/2/2022	40.62
2/18/2022	40.46
2/19/2022	43.16
3/9/2022	46.89
3/20/2022	40.52
4/8/2022	41.73

I've seen the hammer mod before on Youtube. I haven't used it yet but I actually purchased the triangle tool because I thought I might need it.

 

[TommyFan101]

I was looking at the How To thread that you posted. I'm thinking I'll clean the intercooler since it's probably still got some oil in it. E-Z Intercooler Cleaning

 

[Thejarhead]

Those mpg numbers look pretty good. During cold weather mpg’s fall when it warms back up the numbers go back up also.

If you do the “hammer mod “ realize a little movement is all that’s needed.

There will always be oil in the intercooler, that’s the nature of this kind of turbo set up. A film of oil is expected its when you have more than a few tablespoons that problems can arise. As long as the intercooler is drained of oil and anything in the low point behind the passenger wheel has been sopped up you should be good. Many guys check and drain their intercooler when they do an oil change.7