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2000 beetle. 2.0 gas

No problems with car until recently. Change and check oil, check coolant, washer fluid....this car was a dream.
And then....

About 3 weeks ago car suddenly wouldn't start. Crank, but no start. Left it where it was and walked to parents house. Bright side ,I got to break my first love (25th anniversary Mustang convertable 30,000 miles) out of storage and got the cob webs blown out of her. The Beetle sat Thursday-Sunday until my dad got back in town. I checked several times a day, and bug would only crank. Dad and trailer to the rescue on Sunday. Popped the hood so dad could check things out to see why it wouldn't start....started right up. Drove it to my parents .. Less than 5 miles.. Without any problems. Dad back under hood and in backseat. I am not sure what he did/checked. I just did as he said. "Turn the key on" "turn the key off". "Start it up". And stayed quiet while he checked it out. He's kinda grumpy. No problems found. Since fuel pump was silent during the no start issue, a fuel pump was discussed. Decided to wait. Dad's old school meter and look, listen, examine kind of guy. Did not check fuses, battery or codes.

12 wonderful days of carefree running better than ever driving and BAM, won't start one morning. Dad had said if it doesn't start again, bang on the fuel pump. It worked ! 5 blocks to work, no problems. Leaving work--crank, no start. Frustrated, I walked home. Tried each day for the next 6 days...can't get her to start. No fuel pump or relay noise. Ordered the fuel pump. Left car parked on the street near work. Day 6 had a friend crank while I hit on the gas tank. No luck. Decided to try to cycle the pump. Switch ignition on and off for about 10 minutes and suddenly relay and pump kick in/on. She started! Drove around about 20 mins. Turned iit on and off several times. Went to the grocery store, started up but wouldn't go. Rough idle (MASS sensor was my thought running but tach showing 0 RPMs). Leaning on the clutch enough to make me almost have a panic attach, I limp to AutoZone. Used a circuit tester on fuses. Fuse 34 dead. Key out, key on, cranking, idling. Same with fuse 32. Both are some type of engine control per diagram in fuse box. I think 1 may go to the fuel injectors. I think the fuses are where I should start... Thoughts?

These are the codes:

P1225--- injector circuit cylinder 1 short to ground. Explanation: open or short circuit condition. Probable cause: failed fuel injector.

P1226---- see above but cylinder 2

P1227---- see above but cylinder 3

P1228---- see above but cylinder 4

P1421--- secondary air injection valve circuit short to ground. Explanation: open or short circuit condition. Probable cause: failed air solenoid valve.

P1425--- tank ventilation valve short to ground. Explanation : open or short circuit condition. Probable cause: failed EVAP canister purge regulator valve.

P1451--- secondary air injection circuit short to ground. Explanation: open or short circuit condition. Probable cause: 1. Poor electrical connection. 2. Failed air injection pump relay.

P1472 ---EVAP control system LDP circuit short to ground. Explanation: open or short circuit condition. Probable cause: failed leak detection pump (LDP)

P1582---- idle adaptation at limit. Explanation: rich air/fuel ratio--check fuel pressure and fuel injectors. Probable cause. 1. Check intake system for false air-vacuum leaks. 2. Canister purge solenoid stuck open. 3. Failed MAF sensor

P0102---- mass or volume air flow sensor circuit low input. Explanation: air duct tube damaged. Probable cause: 1. Large vacuum leak on engine. 2. Faulty MASS sensor.

P0506--- idle air control system RPM lower than expected. Explanation: large vacuum leak on engine. Probable cause: 1. Throttle plate misadjusted or damaged. 2. Faulty IAC valve.

P1500 ---- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay
- Fuel Pump Relay harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Pump Relay poor electrical connection

I lost the page that had the last 2 codes, will need to research those. They could be P1506 and P1102, some confusion on if the autozone guy only wrote 3 digits for a couple codes and he couldn't remember if "0" or "1" were omitted.

My dad restores classic cars from the ground up, but his response to this list was
"If you are going to drive it make sure you have a flathead screwdriver ...to take the license tag off. Better look for the title too". He said its not worth the trouble. I love this car and with advice and guidance and using his shop/tools I know I can do this.
 

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Well, there are allot of electrical trouble codes; from a basic testing starting point. I would start; testing the fuel pressure and checking for power at the fuel pump, using the service manual testing procedures.

Here are the service manual testing procedures:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature Specifications

If everything passes; I would move on to the ignition system and check for spark.

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > With Generic Scan Tool

Allot of your codes; are generic OBD II codes and not VW specific but you might try looking them up on the Ross Tech Wiki, for better VW specific information:

Ross-Tech Wiki

Anything can be repaired; you just need to do a process of elimination as your troubleshooting things. "it's not worth it"; many times, is a response from those who are not familiar with working these German/European cars or they are not familiar with modern auto repair. If this is beyond your capabilities; you might seek professional help from a indy shop, that specializes in Volkswagens. Otherwise, if you are willing to work on the car; start testing things and you should be able, to find the problem, by going through a logical step by step troubleshooting process.
 

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I believe this is an electrical problem and not any failed sensors.

If you search you should be able to find more info. Most likely a problem with a ground somewhere.

I recall these may be caused by a bad fuel pump relay of all things. Search for fuel pump relay and many codes.
 

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Gustav
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I'd start with P1500 the fuel pump relay it's a cheep part and easy to get to. Keep this in mind trouble codes are like dominos falling when one system goes out the others shut down or go into limp mode to protect the vehicle.
 

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fuel pump relay location: #4 - Fuel Pump (FP) Relay (relay marked "409"): wiring diagrams following pages:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000) > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch Relay > Component Information > Locations

Just for a "fyi"; here are the fuel pump fuse locations:

location: fuse panel on drivers side dashboard: possibly #28 - Fuel pump (FP) 15A: fuse panel info:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ion/locations/fuse_arrangement_in_fuse_panel/

location: fuse panel on top of battery: possibly # S163 Fuel Pump: 50A: fuse panel info:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ons/fuse_arrangement_in_fuse_panel/page_1900/
 

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What was the resolution?

I have 8 of the same codes mentioned here. (P1225,1226,1227,1228,1451,1421,1425, & 1472).

Did the original issue get resolved?

I have a nasty parasitic drain that kills the battery in 2 days. I've done a complete test of all the circuits and wasn't able to find the gremlin. The only circuit one that had slightly above normal amp draw was related to the fuel pump relay (409). I replaced it, but it did not change the draw and the battery still died.

Now I got the above codes. Please help! :(
 

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What brand of 409 relay; did you purchase and install? Most aftermarket versions; will not work and do not have the same internal components needed, that the genuine vw parts do.

As for testing for parasitic drains; check out this thread:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...0356-how-test-parasitic-drain-new-beetle.html

Stereo head units and monsoon amps; are common drains.
I did a complete test of all fuses for a parasitic drain. The only one that appeared to be drawing more amps than normal was in the circuit of fuse #43 - which goes to the Fuel Pump Relay.

  • The brand of the relay was not the issue, it was the correct replacement.
  • The stereo is not aftermarket and the circuit with the drain is not connected to any stereo or monsoon amp
  • The fuse box on top of the battery is in perfect condition - no issues/no shorts

The codes I pulled yesterday include:

  • P1225: Injector Circuit Cylinder 1 Short To Ground
  • P1226: Injector Circuit Cylinder 2 Short To Ground
  • P1227: Injector Circuit Cylinder 3 Short To Ground
  • P1228: Injector Circuit Cylinder 4 Short To Ground
  • P1451: Secondary Air Injection Circuit Short To Ground
  • P1421: Secondary Air Injection Valve Circuit Short To Ground
  • P1425: Tank Ventilation Valve Short To Ground
  • P1472: EVAP Control System LDP Circuit Short To Ground


The battery now dies much quicker (overnight). Are there any other suggestions? Does anyone have good wiring diagram for these circuits? :confused:
 
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