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Ok, took some time to read the codes. Looks like your throttle body either puked or lost adaption. You can have your local bone yard pull you one for $20. FCP euro sells the VW branded one or for about 30% less an unbranded one from the same manufacturer. So decided what you are comfortable with. The failed throttle body set a lean condition that your cam sensor tried to compensate for which put it out of range. This resulted in a lean, hot running car which triggered your bank1 o2 sensor.
If your cam sensor is bad your car will run and drive but it will be a dog and very sluggish like you have no power.

The Bosch cam sensor is $50 on Amazon. Do not get a cheap one. It is a hall effect sensor and the China ones are wired in reverse.

They are not hard to change, remove timing cover and release tension on the timing belt. Slide timing belt off. Use an impact to remove cam shaft pulley, replace sensor and put back on. The hard part is retensioning the timing belt. Get the tool for the tensioner. $18. You can do it with a snap ring pliers but it will have you throwing ****. You also need and inspection mirror and a good light and a helper. Have your daughter run the tensioner tool and the light while you run the inspection mirror and the ratchet. That way you can watch the Mark's align and get it right. The coolant sensor is literally a 2 minute job. Pull the snap ring with a small flat screwdriver. Pop out the old, pop in the new and replace the snap ring.

I think if you get the throttle body sorted clear the codes you will have it done. Could the cam shaft sensor be bad....yep, that plastic gets brittle and cracks. I broke mine changing lifters....so I know the cheap Chinese ones are junk....I did it twice.

I drug my 2.0 beetle home and engine wise it would not run because of the throttle body, got it for salvage price. Had they adapted it and had it running they could have made some good money but they had no clue at the used car lot. Mine lost adaption because of extended dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Okay, update I borrowed my brother-in-law's snap-on Solaris ultra. I was supposedly able to do a throttle adaptation for the TB. But I still didn't hear anything. And these codes keep coming up.
20200726_171506.jpg
 

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You have had, a repeatable problem with no power to various things related to the fuel system and the fuel pump relay, which powers many of those things. The odds of ALL those things failing at once is remote and probably impossible. A bad fuel pump relay or wiring/circuit related problem; will throw a bunch of codes, for things that are on that circuit. The fact, that you; do not hear any noises, when doing a "TBA", would indicate to me, you have no power going to the throttle body and many other parts, listed in the long list of trouble codes, you indicated above.

Until you resolved the power/circuit related issue; it won't matter, how many parts you replace, things are not going to work, much less a throttle body alignment procedure, will be able to be completed.

Checking the 409 fuel pump relay; would be a good idea:

location: (this link: is for a 2000 2.0L new beetle; location should be similar, look for a relay with #409 printed on the top):


To access, the relay; you will need to remove a plastic kick panel, under the area where your knees are, if you are sitting in the drivers side front seat. I believe it take 4 Torx screws; to remove it.

You might pop off your #409 fuel pump relay; pull the cover off, clean the contacts with some scotch brite pad/scrubber, make sure it is clean with all the contamination/build up of carbon tracks removed. Then, spray electrical cleaner or if you don't' have any around, some isopropyl/rubbing alcohol will do fine, a old tooth brush, can help remove any more debris and then (put some alcohol, in a container; swirl the relay in it, let dry, re-install the cover and put it back in the fuse/relay block). When you seat the 409 relay; put your hand on it and then, turn the key, to the on position. You should hear and feel it click; the fuel pump, should kick on for a moment, to build up pressure.

I had my 409 relay act up and it caused, a no start condition. I cleaned mine up, as I didn't have a new one handy and after that, it started right up fine. Later, I bought a new one but cleaning, worked as a temporary fix, until I ordered a new one, it showed up in the mail.

NOTE: This is CRUCIAL: do not buy any aftermarket fuel pump relays; from a normal local auto parts stores; they don't' work correctly! Buy only a genuine vw part or a Stribel oem 409 relay; Stribel, makes them for VW and we have had a problem with aftermarket ones not working correctly.

Here is more info; from common issues with the #409 relay:

 

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Discussion Starter #28
Billy, man Thank you for taking the time to explain and help me out. I was just wondering if I should still do this even though I do heard the fuel pump come on?? I feel so freakin lost working on this VW. First time for everything I guess 🥴🤪🥴🤪
 

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Well, pop it out, the relay marked "409", pull the plastic cover off and clean the contacts, couldn't hurt and see what the, before/after results are, after you pull/clean/swap/reinstall it. Just because the relay clicks; doesn't mean, everything is ok. As you can see, from the link I posted above; the other person, had pretty much the same codes as you and I have had similar problems as well. Cleaning the relay is not hard and you have nothing to lose, at this point. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well guys, I cleaned the relays. But still get the same codes. I have noticed that with this snap on sulas ultra that I says it's doing a TB adaptation. But still no noise from the TB. I was wondering if you guys think I might need to take it into a shop?? I really don't want to give up! But not sure what direction to go from here....
 

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Did you check for power @ the throttle body? Have you replaced the fuel pump relay? You defintiely have a power issue; a circuit tester and multimeter, should help you diagnose the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
😂🤣🤣😂🤣😂 see, I didn't even think to do those. I will get right on it after work tomorrow. Thank goodness for these forums man!! And guys like ya'll.
 

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You say the engine only idles. On the AEG the throttle is old-school, operated by a cable connected to the gas pedal. That cable is attached to the throttle body, right? Can you rev the engine by moving the throttle plate (the quarter-circle piece the cable should connect to on the throttle body) with your hand?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
There is a cable on the back side, I understand it to be CC. On the front side facing the engine is the electrical black cover, with the gears and TB position sensor. I opened it up and nothing was burned up, I cleaned everything on the TB, but still doing the same thing. One of the codes says, 2 issues with TB. Here a picture of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Quick thought. So upon getting the car from my Sister-in-law. I popped open the immobilizer key to check the battery. I noticed no battery. So I have been reading stuff about them not running or starting if the key has lost power? Would think be causing the issues? Or..........
 

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The key fob, has a battery; to power the internal circuit board and the wireless buttons/controls (lock/unlock doors, pop open the trunk, turn off/on the alarm, etc). The immobilizer, is actually not implemented into a 1998 model New Beetle; VW didn't install it, until the year 2000 and then, the RFID chip, was not powered by a battery.

Here is a overview of the immobilizer system but it doesn't apply to your 1998 New Beetle:


Did you replace the fuel pump relay and then, clear codes, check for power or do a tba?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Billy, so I replaced the fuel pump relay and cleared the codes. What should the voltage be on the 6 pin connector to the TB?
 
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