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Not being familiar with the gas models, I would guess that orange line in not oem. If it’s not leaking then check the ends where it connects for leaks. The plastic connections are old and brittle, your leak may be there and not the hose itself. If the plastic connectors are ok find an oem hose and replace that orange aftermarket one.
 

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Having reread what you have said, is one end of the hose disconnected? If so find where it should plug into and connect it.
 

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I'm not familiar with the NB. I have a 2015. But I learned the hard way with none OEM parts. I got great advice from these guys 😁 I'm not sure about your 99, but I now know that I will only put OEM parts on it. Cost more, but if you buy after market, then have to buy OEM. The cost is cheaper, plus the time to replace said part. But she's picky. Good luck 👍 any update on it? O, you said that you replaced the battery. Do you have to tell your car that you did? Or do you not have to on the NB? Just a thought, but these guys can tell you.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You might check your fuel trims (+ or - 10% is considered a normal range); a vacuum leak, will affect this, watch the video, for more info:


When I was watching the live data while driving the fuel trim went up to 25 right when the O2 sensor went to 0 and the car started to misfire. It happens about 10 minutes into driving when the vehicle is warm. I am going to do the compression test this weekend. But I am not exactly sure what I am testing on the O2 sensor. After I unplug the black plug. How do I use the scanner the multimeter to test it. Thanks for the help.
 

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Did you do the testing procedures; shown in the service manual? Go ahead and print out the pages and follow the tests; this will confirm the wiring, ecu and sensor are good or bad:

 

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Discussion Starter #26
I test both the O2 sensor. Was slightly out of spec so I replaced it with OEM part. Drove it and no change once it was up to temp about 15 minutes. The fuel trim bank 1 went to the no reading and the car stared to backfire. I did the compression test and all cylinders passed.
Below are the reading when the car started to backfire.

SmartSelect_20200522-172058_RepairSol2.jpg SmartSelect_20200522-172044_RepairSol2.jpg SmartSelect_20200522-172410_RepairSol2.jpg
 

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So, when you did the testing of the 02 sensors; did you follow the testing of the wiring and the sensor itself? What were the results of the testing; what was shown to be out of spec? What brand 02 sensors did you buy and install? Bosch, is recommended for the sensors.

If the 02 sensor signal is dropping out; I would be testing the wiring to the ecu, some have had wiring problems, damaged wires/plugs or the ecu, has been seen to get damaged in particularly bad scenarios.

When the car is warmed up and then, the drivability problems, the bank1 sensor1 signal drops out.... does the signal ever come back? When you are driving around; what are the fuel trims at, as noted +or- 10% are within range. Do the backfiring and misfires continue or go away?

The ross tech definitions; are always, a good place to give you ideas on where and what to check.


What were the compression test results; psi for the cylinders?

More work and testing is needed; it can be a challenge to figure things out but you need to do a process of elimination.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Did you do the testing procedures; shown in the service manual? Go ahead and print out the pages and follow the tests; this will confirm the wiring, ecu and sensor are good or bad:

So I had a quick question what does.

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Check resistance for sensor heater at connector to oxygen sensor terminal 1 + 2: Specified value: 1,0...5,0 Ohms(at room temperature).
Is that 1 to 5 Ohms?
 

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Seeing, how you had this code in the past; I would also, be checking the catalytic converter, if it is working as it should or it is clogged, etc.


Here is a excellent video; by ETCG, a easy way to confirm, the cat is working the 02 sensors are reading in a normal way as well.


Watch the video and let us know, what the results of the testing is. Thanks.
 

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I got a trouble code, for oxygen sensor heater short to ground; I bought a new 02 sensor and tested the new, old one. I did a basic continuity test and the old one, had a broken circuit, the new one had continuity.

In my case, the trouble code; still remained and I could not clear it. That was confusing, so I decided to do a hard reset and then, the code went away, stayed away.

It might help, to pull the plug on the new 02 sensor; then, compare the readings on the old sensor and the new one. The testing for me, confirmed the heater portion was bad; when comparing the new and old 02 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I got a trouble code, for oxygen sensor heater short to ground; I bought a new 02 sensor and tested the new, old one. I did a basic continuity test and the old one, had a broken circuit, the new one had continuity.

In my case, the trouble code; still remained and I could not clear it. That was confusing, so I decided to do a hard reset and then, the code went away, stayed away.

It might help, to pull the plug on the new 02 sensor; then, compare the readings on the old sensor and the new one. The testing for me, confirmed the heater portion was bad; when comparing the new and old 02 sensor.
I got 10.2 Ohms on the O2 sensor and .7 volts from the ECM.
 

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Based upon the service manual:


Check resistance for sensor heater at connector to oxygen sensor terminal 3 + 4. Specified value: 2.5...10.0 Ohms (at room temperature)


So, you seem to be in spec; for the B1S1 02 sensor, I'm assuming, this is the new sensor (what did the old one read)?
 

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Another thing to check; is the "readiness" tests, if there is a malfunction in the system, typically the emisssions tests will not "pass" or show a "error" or "fail", indicating a problem. I'm not clear, what scan tool or dongle you are using but with VCDS by Ross Tech, you can "force" the testing and quickly, see the results.


Otherwise, a specific series of driving conditions; must be met, for the testing to be completed (can be done with a test drive but might take multiple drive cycles or days to complete).

Here is a service manual; going over, the readiness test requirement for various VW's and specific engines/models.

 

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Once you confirm the cat is working (watch ETCG video; check temps, etc), the 02 sensors are functioning normally and the readiness tests have passed, you can move on to troubleshooting the misfiring. I see, you have replaced allot of parts; attempting to fix the problem, I would be double checking things and I would like a confirmation, on the brand, quality of the parts installed. We have seen aftermarket coils; in particular, cause allot of problems for people, even brand new out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
So I had a quick question what does.

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Check resistance for sensor heater at connector to oxygen sensor terminal 1 + 2: Specified value: 1,0...5,0 Ohms(at room temperature).
Is that 1 to 5 Ohms?
Based upon the service manual:


Check resistance for sensor heater at connector to oxygen sensor terminal 3 + 4. Specified value: 2.5...10.0 Ohms (at room temperature)


So, you seem to be in spec; for the B1S1 02 sensor, I'm assuming, this is the new sensor (what did the old one read)?
Based upon the service manual:


Check resistance for sensor heater at connector to oxygen sensor terminal 3 + 4. Specified value: 2.5...10.0 Ohms (at room temperature)


So, you seem to be in spec; for the B1S1 02 sensor, I'm assuming, this is the new sensor (what did the old one read)?
The reading in the spec said to test 1+2 should be between 1 + 2: Specified value: 1,0...5,0 Ohms(at room temperature) I got 20 Ohms. And 10.2 on the new one. Is the new O2 sensor bad? I also tested the MAF 1+3 and got .6 kOhms On the MAF at 20C. The Haynes manual said it should be between 2.0 and 2.5 at 20C....that was the knock off. Should I get a OEM MAF?

The compression test was 165 psi to 180 psi.
 

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Hmm, aftermarket maf sensors; have proven to be defective out of the box and make many cars almost not drivable and kick many into "limp mode". What brand did you buy and install? As always, a genuine Bosch maf sensor is recommended; as a quick test, you might reinstall the original maf back in and see if the misfires and bad running issues, resolve itself.

We have a long history on this site; of poor quality mafs; causing particularly bad running issues, after install, in the hope of fixing a running issue (when the original Bosch oem maf; maybe be fine, not the problem to begin with).

Hopefully you still have the original part and swapping it in; good trying that out, is a easy thing to do..

Sometimes, a bit of debris; will clog a original maf and spraying some maf cleaner, compressed air can clean it out. I have had good results with crc brand maf cleaner.

CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner 11 wt-oz 05110.


You might look at live data with your app on your phone ; comparing live data on the old and new maf, @ idle then wot. I noticed my defective aftermarket maf; had readings that jumped around without consistent numbers, it could not maintain the full range of air flow readings like the original one did. After installing the aftermarket maf, I did a test drive and after a while the car just tan horribly, died on the side of the road (limp mode), luckily I still have the original one, installed it in my car snd instantly, things went back to working as normal.

 
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