NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Sarah'sBug
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been working on my daughters recently purchase Beetle trying to do as much as possible myself. Im trying to save money because the car does have 150000 miles on it but overall is in good shape. I am pretty mechanically inclined and am contemplating doing a suspension overhaul myself. What I am asking is do I need any special tools? The struts have been replaced but do I need to remove them to do ball joints? Is this one of those repairs that I am just better off to take to an expert?

Thanks for any input!
Lou

Really like the car, 2.0 5 speed very fun to drive but seems everyone has a lot of quirks in electrical system.
 

·
Super smart senior member
Joined
·
857 Posts
I have been working on my daughters recently purchase Beetle trying to do as much as possible myself. Im trying to save money because the car does have 150000 miles on it but overall is in good shape. I am pretty mechanically inclined and am contemplating doing a suspension overhaul myself. What I am asking is do I need any special tools? The struts have been replaced but do I need to remove them to do ball joints? Is this one of those repairs that I am just better off to take to an expert?

Thanks for any input!
Lou

Really like the car, 2.0 5 speed very fun to drive but seems everyone has a lot of quirks in electrical system.


First thing everyone is going to say is unless you have a mechanics bill of sale that the timing belt and water pump have been replaced you must start with that.

Ive never replaced my suspension so Ill leave that for the pros to answer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I have been working on my daughters recently purchase Beetle trying to do as much as possible myself. Im trying to save money because the car does have 150000 miles on it but overall is in good shape. I am pretty mechanically inclined and am contemplating doing a suspension overhaul myself. What I am asking is do I need any special tools? The struts have been replaced but do I need to remove them to do ball joints? Is this one of those repairs that I am just better off to take to an expert?

Thanks for any input!
Lou

Really like the car, 2.0 5 speed very fun to drive but seems everyone has a lot of quirks in electrical system.


I did this to my daughter New Beetle suspension and it rides great:MJM Autohaus

and this:MJM Autohaus
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
I just recently redid every piece of the suspension on an 00 TDI here are the things to look out for IMHO

jack the car up and put it on jack stands, at 12 and 6 grab the tire and shake, if there is movement wheel bearings need to be done. do not use timkins or anything at autozone or any of the other warehouses for this as they are junk, get FAG's

inspect inner and outer CV boots, and while driving find a nice culdesac you can turn both ways in, do circles in it and listen for clicking noises that will tell you if your cv joints are going.

ok back to the car being on jacks, grab at 3 and 9 and shake, if it have movement/slop that way either tie rods or tie rod ends need changed.

back to driving it, if you go over a bump and you hear a small clunk and are sure the struts and strut towers were changed out you need to change out your sway bar bushings

back to it being on jack stands, look at the rear bushing in the a-arm, these are a horrible design by vw, if they are bad replace with the TT or r32 ones. Have someone press them out and in for you.

the front a-arm bushing hardly ever goes out
the ball joint is pretty easy to do without special tools

check your strut towers and make sure the strut tower mounts are not going bad

i'm sure i'm forgetting a few things but that is about it, good luck with it.
 

·
Sarah'sBug
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Is it to my understanding that the A arm can be removed without using spring compressors to take load off the struts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
I didn't do it this way but you are correct you should be able to. Remove the sway arm bolt, the front and rear a-arm bolts where they attatch to the car, and the 3 under the ball joint and it should come out w/o a strut compressor. also if you are replacing the rear bushing the reason i said go with the tt ones is not because of performance it is because the ones vw put in the stock vw's just are a bad design. Also the tt ones are easier to put in because they are not directional. the torque specs for putting it back together are the following

sway bar bolt 33 ft lbs
ball joint mount to knuckle/hub 33 ft lb
the 3 bolts on the ball joint to the a arm, 15 ft lbs + 1/4 turn, these are one time use bolts, get new ones because they are stretch bolts
LCA bushing bolts, both front and rear - 52 ft-lb + 1/4 turn (90 degrees) always replace, one time use only
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top