The links/codes below are for: 02 sensor bank1/sensor2: sensor AFTER the cat, so that needs to be tested or replaced. Based upon the codes; you posted and the links below, you replaced the wrong sensor bank1/senor1, 02 sensor before the cat: I am not seeing you post any trouble codes; related to that sensor.
17606 - Ross-Tech Wiki
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16524/P0140/000320
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16525/P0141/000321
This came up with P0118; not P118, don't know if its the same thing. If it is; it would indicate the temp sensor or wring is bad, they are cheap.... replace it. When my sensor has failed; it usually, causes a hard start, rough idle until warm and a rich fuel condition... black residue at the tail pipe.
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input What does that mean? The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor screwed into a coolant passage in the cylinder head. Sensor resistance is high when coolant temperature is low and resistance drops when coolant temperature increases. The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor. The PCM monitors voltage drop to determine coolant temperature. If the ECT reads less than freezing temp. when engine has been running for more than a few minutes, the PCM determines a circuit fault and sets this code. Or if the PCM determines the sensor resistance is out of specs, this code is set. Potential Symptoms Symptoms of a P0118 could include: Very poor fuel economy A no start condition Vehicle may start, but run very poorly, blowing black smoke, running very rough and misfiring Illumination of MIL Causes A code P0118 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: A bad connection at the sensor An open in the ground circuit between the ECT sensor and the PCM A short in the voltage feed between the sensor and the PCM A bad PCM (less likely) A bad temperature sensor (shorted internally) Possible Solutions First, if you have access to a scan tool, check the reading of the coolant sensor. Does it read a logical number? If so, the problem is likely intermittent. Perform a "wiggle" test by wiggling the connector and harness to the sensor while watching the reading on the scan tool. Watch for any drop-outs. Drop-outs would indicate a bad connection. If the scan tool reads an illogical temperature, check the resistance of the temperature sensor. If it is out of specs, replace it. If it is in specifications, unplug the sensor and, using a fused jumper wire, jumper the two terminals of the connector together. The temperature reading should now be maxed out to above 250 degrees F. If not, there is likely a problem with the ground circuit or voltage supply. Check for 5 volts reference voltage at the connector. Also check for ground presence at the connector. If you do not have 5V ref. and/or ground continuity, check for these back at the PCM connector. If you have these at the PCM connector, then repair open or short between the PCM and the sensor. If you do not, remove the offending wire from the PCM and then check for proper voltage at the PCM pin. If it's present now, repair short on the circuit. If it isn't present after removing the wire and checking the pin, replace PCM NOTE: Usually, P0118 is indicative of a bad temperature sensor, but doesn't rule out these other possibilities. If you're unsure of how to diagnose a PCM, do not attempt.
Read more at: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
Both the 02 sensor and temp sensor; are definitely used by the ecm to adjust the car to run right, so I would fix those first and see how things are improved. From what i understand; "limp mode", to protect the engine from getting damaged, so maybe with your 02 sensors failed and the temp sensor failed, it didn't have enough info to adjust things correctly and went into the limp mode, to protect the car? Just theorizing and talking out loud... test/fix/replace/repair the above two issues and get back with us, on how things are going.
When replacing the 02 sensor; be SURE to get high quality oem parts, not junk from your typical auto parts store. I went with BOSCH; as that was what came in the Volkswagen's from the factory; you can look up your correct 02 sensor here (get the "oem" version not the "universal" one and it will be identical, to the one you remove). Cheap parts; can cause more problems and make your troubleshooting even more of a challenge.
BOSCH AUTO PARTS FINDER: (be sure to get the right parts: based on VIN# and correct engine code)
http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehiclepartfinder/pages/vehiclepartfinder.aspx
Lastly, info about the SAI issues: (typically, hose leaks, sai pump failure or combi valve stuck/failed)
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16795/P0411/001041
PS: when i replaced my bank1/sensor2 02 sensor; I had to do a "hard reset", for the trouble code, to finally go away.
17606 - Ross-Tech Wiki
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16524/P0140/000320
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16525/P0141/000321
This came up with P0118; not P118, don't know if its the same thing. If it is; it would indicate the temp sensor or wring is bad, they are cheap.... replace it. When my sensor has failed; it usually, causes a hard start, rough idle until warm and a rich fuel condition... black residue at the tail pipe.
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input What does that mean? The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermistor screwed into a coolant passage in the cylinder head. Sensor resistance is high when coolant temperature is low and resistance drops when coolant temperature increases. The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a 5 volt reference and a ground to the sensor. The PCM monitors voltage drop to determine coolant temperature. If the ECT reads less than freezing temp. when engine has been running for more than a few minutes, the PCM determines a circuit fault and sets this code. Or if the PCM determines the sensor resistance is out of specs, this code is set. Potential Symptoms Symptoms of a P0118 could include: Very poor fuel economy A no start condition Vehicle may start, but run very poorly, blowing black smoke, running very rough and misfiring Illumination of MIL Causes A code P0118 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: A bad connection at the sensor An open in the ground circuit between the ECT sensor and the PCM A short in the voltage feed between the sensor and the PCM A bad PCM (less likely) A bad temperature sensor (shorted internally) Possible Solutions First, if you have access to a scan tool, check the reading of the coolant sensor. Does it read a logical number? If so, the problem is likely intermittent. Perform a "wiggle" test by wiggling the connector and harness to the sensor while watching the reading on the scan tool. Watch for any drop-outs. Drop-outs would indicate a bad connection. If the scan tool reads an illogical temperature, check the resistance of the temperature sensor. If it is out of specs, replace it. If it is in specifications, unplug the sensor and, using a fused jumper wire, jumper the two terminals of the connector together. The temperature reading should now be maxed out to above 250 degrees F. If not, there is likely a problem with the ground circuit or voltage supply. Check for 5 volts reference voltage at the connector. Also check for ground presence at the connector. If you do not have 5V ref. and/or ground continuity, check for these back at the PCM connector. If you have these at the PCM connector, then repair open or short between the PCM and the sensor. If you do not, remove the offending wire from the PCM and then check for proper voltage at the PCM pin. If it's present now, repair short on the circuit. If it isn't present after removing the wire and checking the pin, replace PCM NOTE: Usually, P0118 is indicative of a bad temperature sensor, but doesn't rule out these other possibilities. If you're unsure of how to diagnose a PCM, do not attempt.
Read more at: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
Both the 02 sensor and temp sensor; are definitely used by the ecm to adjust the car to run right, so I would fix those first and see how things are improved. From what i understand; "limp mode", to protect the engine from getting damaged, so maybe with your 02 sensors failed and the temp sensor failed, it didn't have enough info to adjust things correctly and went into the limp mode, to protect the car? Just theorizing and talking out loud... test/fix/replace/repair the above two issues and get back with us, on how things are going.
When replacing the 02 sensor; be SURE to get high quality oem parts, not junk from your typical auto parts store. I went with BOSCH; as that was what came in the Volkswagen's from the factory; you can look up your correct 02 sensor here (get the "oem" version not the "universal" one and it will be identical, to the one you remove). Cheap parts; can cause more problems and make your troubleshooting even more of a challenge.
BOSCH AUTO PARTS FINDER: (be sure to get the right parts: based on VIN# and correct engine code)
http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehiclepartfinder/pages/vehiclepartfinder.aspx
Lastly, info about the SAI issues: (typically, hose leaks, sai pump failure or combi valve stuck/failed)
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16795/P0411/001041
PS: when i replaced my bank1/sensor2 02 sensor; I had to do a "hard reset", for the trouble code, to finally go away.
