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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, new to the forum and looking for advice with my 99 gl. When I start it in the morning it starts, goes to 1300 rpm then drops to 450-500 rpm and stutters then picks back up to 900 rpm. The car runs pretty decent when cold but if the car idles for a while and warms up the idle will go from 1100 rpm and climb to 1300 every 2-4 seconds and then drop to 600-700 rpm then gos back to 1100. I drove it down my street to a empty parking lot and did a few laps around it and it drove ok for a bit until the idle was jumping. If I let off the gas when accelerating it acts like it stalls, but it doesn't. And when a press the pedal again it jerks violently, and when I drove back it started to putter and jerk and then stall going up a small hill. And it acted like it stalled again so I pulled over and my power steering was working so I knew it was running but when I tried to stop my breaks felt like there was no assist but I can hear the airy puff noises. I scanned the car for code with a generic scanner and I got 5 codes a p1580 and 2 for both o2 sensors-no activity and the heater things. Thanks for any help, love my bug a lot!
 

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I'd say the first thing to check is vacuum leaks. From the brake problems you could have a leak in the line to the brake booster. Another common one is the line to the fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side front of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I feel that there is more wrong with it though. The car sat for a 2 years because it broke down and the mechanic said it was the ecu and a new one would cost $1000. A few months went bipy until I got my scanner and read the codes and got p0322 and p1580 which wouldn't clear. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the car would start and die immediately. I called the mechanic and he said my throttle body needed aligned and he could do it for $45. Four hours after I got it towed there he called said he couldn't do it and charged my $90. I think my battery voltage wasn't high enough to do a TBA. So I paid him and towed the car back home. Then I took my ecu out and looked and smelt it for burns, it looked fine. Put it back in my car and cleared the codes and p1580 cleared until I turned my ignition off and back on. When I cleared the code the car started and idled for 40 minutes and now the car runs with the mil on and the p1580 code on.
 

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I had an idle surge in my 2.0 when my coolant temp sensor went bad the first time.

I also hate that the default answer from mechanics seem to be to replace the ECU. ECUs rarely fail.

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The car does make a hissing noise. What's the safest way to check for a vacuum leak?
Red99 is right. Vacuum leak. Take plastic cover off the top of the engine and check the things he mentioned. Since you can hear the hiss, it should not be hard to find.
 

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I would check the line that goes from the brake booster to the throttle body. Is this an electronic throttle body?
 

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Quickest way would be to remove the engine cover. CAREFULLY run your hand along all the rubber hoses you can reach with the engine running at idle.

If you do this? You might get lucky and find a section of rubber hose that the 'hissing' changes pitch when you block the leaky part.

Check the rubber line at the intake/timing cover area to the fuel pressure regulator as mentioned. It's a 8" section of rubber hose and it normally breaks off at the vacuum nipple/connection Once you remove the plastic timing cover? It's pretty easy to see if it's hanging in the breeze.

There are other ways to locate a vacuum leak using spray cans of different chemicals. (you can do a you tube search to see the procedure.) This is risky if you do not know what you're doing. Spraying an area around the exhaust system with a chemical with a high flash point? You could be not only missing the eyebrows afterwards---but the car as well.

Physical and Visual inspection is the way to start. You get that vacuum leak found and repaired? (and if it's the hose to the booster for the power brakes? That would be a massive leak!!) It should solve a lot of your issues.

S-
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got my throttle body aligned and it drives fine, just has a ruff idle. It's kinda funny that a professional mechanic told me and my aunt to just take it to a junkyard because it wasn't worth fixing and me and my aunt got it running for less than $200 and no mechanical expirence:)

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I got my throttle body aligned and it drives fine, just has a ruff idle. It's kinda funny that a professional mechanic told me and my aunt to just take it to a junkyard because it wasn't worth fixing and me and my aunt got it running for less than $200 and no mechanical expirence:)

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Then it wasn't a professional mechanic.

More like lazy grease monkey that didn't want to spend the time to do his/her job.

S-
 
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