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I will make this as short and as direct as possible. After doing a variety of part replacements/repairs on my son's 2.5L NBC including replacing the thermostat and flushing the coolant (thus replacing with new coolant), I started the car, engine came to temp and the fan kicked on. No problem. Heat was hot. Car was nice and toasty. (I should point out that the A/C compressor solenoid connection was SOL, so it was disconnected as fall/winter is coming herein upstate NY so I told my son I would fix that in the spring.)

Anyway, as I was waiting for a part to install (transmission support bracket) the car sat in my garage for a week or so. Installed the bracket, started fine, waited 5-10 minutes, came to temp thinking fan would kick in. Nada. Zip. Started to over heat. Shut it off. Checked to ensure coolant was flowing back in the bottle (it was). Checked for leaks. Had car up on jack crawling underneath looking for any signs of leakage. Again, nothing. Waited a few hours thinking it was a fluke. Everything was cool again. Started up. Waited to reach temp 5-10 minutes. Again, nothing. No fan turning on.

Checking newbeetle.org threads and YT videos, I checked the fuses on top of the battery block. All good. Nothing blown. No melting of any kind. Checked the fuse panel on the drivers side to see if anything was blown or loose. Nope. Re-seated any that felt loose. All good. Spent a day and a half looking for the relay that might be the culprit. Mind you, this is a 2007 so it has the single multi-speed fan with the integrated FCM. So there is no FCM relay under the battery plate nor are there any sensors screwed into the radiator.

Went to my local VW dealer and had them print out the relay map locations for my VIN. Showed that 1J0 959 485 - relay for radiator fan run out - #181. I get home, get under the dash. Crane my neck. Wrench my back and low and behold. NO #181 relay. Two #53, one #100, one #409, one #429, one #173, and one #126 (or #120 could not see it all), but no #181.

I am at my wits end. Seriously. I am loosing it as the car needs to be inspected by the end of the month and I still need to put struts and shocks on it. I know the end result of which I am trying to avoid is a new fan replacement. (I think I found the best price available, but I have already spent $$$$ on the things that needed to be replace). I have a coolant temperature sensor that I will replace thinking maybe it is faulty and thus not registering the temp to kick the fan on. However, why would it work the week prior after I did the first phase of repairs.

PLEASE any help is greatly appreciated lest I put a BTH.
 

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You can check the fan by disconnecting the harness and applying 12v directly to it, if the fan works it’s good, if not it needs replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can check the fan by disconnecting the harness and applying 12v directly to it, if the fan works it’s good, if not it needs replacement.
Ok. Some update. I have verified that the fan is good by applying 12V directly to it. I have verified that the wiring harness to the fan is good via measuring 14.6V at the connector. When I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor, the fan kicked on leading me to believe the sensor was SOL. Replaced the sensor. Yeah it looked burned/corroded. YET, the fan did not kick on after replacing it and starting it. Drove the car around the block a few times, idiot light over heating flashed then went out. Did this about a half dozen times. Pulled in the driveway. Left car running. No over temp idiot light, but no fan kicking on either. No overheating steam/smoke as well. Leading me to believe that while the relay may be good power wise, the resistance may be high thus not tripping to kick the fan on. So, I am back to which #100 relay is for the fan since there is no #181 on this bug. I might just buy two of them and replace them both since they are relatively cheap. HOWEVER, if that does not work, I am out of options.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will make this as short and as direct as possible. After doing a variety of part replacements/repairs on my son's 2.5L NBC including replacing the thermostat and flushing the coolant (thus replacing with new coolant), I started the car, engine came to temp and the fan kicked on. No problem. Heat was hot. Car was nice and toasty. (I should point out that the A/C compressor solenoid connection was SOL, so it was disconnected as fall/winter is coming herein upstate NY so I told my son I would fix that in the spring.)

Anyway, as I was waiting for a part to install (transmission support bracket) the car sat in my garage for a week or so. Installed the bracket, started fine, waited 5-10 minutes, came to temp thinking fan would kick in. Nada. Zip. Started to over heat. Shut it off. Checked to ensure coolant was flowing back in the bottle (it was). Checked for leaks. Had car up on jack crawling underneath looking for any signs of leakage. Again, nothing. Waited a few hours thinking it was a fluke. Everything was cool again. Started up. Waited to reach temp 5-10 minutes. Again, nothing. No fan turning on.

Checking newbeetle.org threads and YT videos, I checked the fuses on top of the battery block. All good. Nothing blown. No melting of any kind. Checked the fuse panel on the drivers side to see if anything was blown or loose. Nope. Re-seated any that felt loose. All good. Spent a day and a half looking for the relay that might be the culprit. Mind you, this is a 2007 so it has the single multi-speed fan with the integrated FCM. So there is no FCM relay under the battery plate nor are there any sensors screwed into the radiator.

Went to my local VW dealer and had them print out the relay map locations for my VIN. Showed that 1J0 959 485 - relay for radiator fan run out - #181. I get home, get under the dash. Crane my neck. Wrench my back and low and behold. NO #181 relay. Two #53, one #100, one #409, one #429, one #173, and one #126 (or #120 could not see it all), but no #181.

I am at my wits end. Seriously. I am loosing it as the car needs to be inspected by the end of the month and I still need to put struts and shocks on it. I know the end result of which I am trying to avoid is a new fan replacement. (I think I found the best price available, but I have already spent $$$$ on the things that needed to be replace). I have a coolant temperature sensor that I will replace thinking maybe it is faulty and thus not registering the temp to kick the fan on. However, why would it work the week prior after I did the first phase of repairs.

PLEASE any help is greatly appreciated lest I put a BTH.
Ok. Some update. I have verified that the fan is good by applying 12V directly to it. I have verified that the wiring harness to the fan is good via measuring 14.6V at the connector. When I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor, the fan kicked on leading me to believe the sensor was SOL. Replaced the sensor. Yeah it looked burned/corroded. YET, the fan did not kick on after replacing it and starting it. Drove the car around the block a few times, idiot light over heating flashed then went out. Did this about a half dozen times. Pulled in the driveway. Left car running. No over temp idiot light, but no fan kicking on either. No overheating steam/smoke as well. Leading me to believe that while the relay may be good power wise, the resistance may be high thus not tripping to kick the fan on. So, I am back to which #100 relay is for the fan since there is no #181 on this bug. I might just buy two of them and replace them both since they are relatively cheap. HOWEVER, if that does not work, I am out of options.
 

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Check the wiring to the cts , I’ve had the wiring to a couple of sensors rot right at the connector. Back up light switch, ac connector on top of the starter, so it can happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Check the wiring to the cts , I’ve had the wiring to a couple of sensors rot right at the connector. Back up light switch, ac connector on top of the starter, so it can happen.
I checked the wiring to the CTS connector. Nothing looked out of the ordinary. No broken shielding. Everything seemed tight. One wire had what looked like some cooper oxidation but I could not tell if it was the coating or true oxidation. I double checked to ensure that the CTS was seated correctly and as far in as possible. I checked to ensure that the CTS connection snapped in as well. Once I get this issue resolved, the other out standing issues I can work, but this one has to be fixed so I can drive the car and get it inspected.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I checked the wiring to the CTS connector. Nothing looked out of the ordinary. No broken shielding. Everything seemed tight. One wire had what looked like some cooper oxidation but I could not tell if it was the coating or true oxidation. I double checked to ensure that the CTS was seated correctly and as far in as possible. I checked to ensure that the CTS connection snapped in as well. Once I get this issue resolved, the other out standing issues I can work, but this one has to be fixed so I can drive the car and get it inspected.
I also need to note that the A/C compressor is disconnected. Could this be a contributing factor to why the fan is not kicking on?
 
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