Yes it just started out of the blue, I have power to everything, fuel pump turns on, replaced the crankshaft position sensor, checked all fuses, and have spark to the plugs.....not sure what else to try...any ideas?
I did check the voltage for the battery, it was really low. I replaced the battery and am having the same issues. When I try to start it it turns over but doesn't start, on the instrument cluster the battery light stays on not sure if that helps out or not. I did not run a scan on it I don't have access to one. Any other ideas? I will have the car back in my garage tomorrow so I will Have more time tofiddle with it more.
Well it looks like I have a big job to do. When I had the car trailered up I brought it to two shops to do a code scan. First shop said camshaft sensor. Second shop said the same also but he said to make sure the timing belt is turning when trying to fire it up. Took off the top timing belt cover, belt was on still (a little loose)but the only gear that was spinning was the crankshaft sprocket and belt did not move. Does this mean I will be doing a timing belt change and if so I probably should do the water pump also since they are the originals. Any other information would be greatly appreciated!
So, if the crank is turning and cam isn't; then, it is possible the valves got bent (thus the no start; as there is no compression). These engines are interference engines; that will be damaged, if the timing belt fails. I would put on a new timing belt; get the timing marks aligned correctly and then do a compression test. If there is no compression; the head needs to come off and get replaced or repaired.
Whenever you do a timing belt; it is best to do the waterpump and replace all the other items in the belt path (tensioner, pulleys etc.) Here is a place; that has complete timing belt kits with everything you need.
Before doing all of that; you need to decide if you would want to spend the money to repair the head and everything else, in a worst case scenario. If you are; then order the whole timing belt kit. If you may not be willing to spend the money; then you might just put on a new timing belt to check the compression and then decide what to do from there (if the valves are bent; requiring a rebuilt head). When the timing belt is off; be sure to check all the other components; make sure they didn't fail, causing the timing belt failure (water pump seized, tensioner seized or other rollers are bad, etc.).
Here is a thread; about replacing the head and info about costs for a diy.
For now; you might, just replace the timing belt and align all the timing marks, check compression to see if the head needs to come off and be replaced/repaired. I have a feeling; that you might have bent the valves.
Here is the manual for doing the timing belt and aligning the timing marks.
The belt was loose, I could almost pull half of it off. I'm guessing the tensioner failed. I will be putting in a new timing belt and water pump with the fixings . Will find out after if there is any internal damage ?
Not good. With all of the stories I've read online, I'm not even sure it's worth the labor to install a new timing belt and water pump. That labor may be better spent pulling the heads to do a visual inspection.
If it is off a tooth; it will typically, throw a trouble code. Please post any trouble codes; that you are getting. So, the car is running ok and you didn't damage the head? How is the compression? Ok? When you did the timing belt and waterpump; were the timing marks off? Pretty amazing; you came out of it without any damage!
It is easy; to recheck the timing marks and see what is going on. Recheck the links; I gave you above.
Running out of fuel
EVAP canister purge valve
Evaporative emission system
Base engine problems
Controle Module damaged
This feature search for engine misfire in a specific cylinder. Most of the time the cause for a misfire is a lack of combustion in a cylinder due to absence of spark, poor fuel metering, or poor compression.
I would check your timing marks first and then; go down the line of possible causes listed above. For misfire problems; you can use the "switch" technique; switching positions of different components on #3 cylinder to others (plugs, wires, injectors, compression test, etc), to see if the misfire changes to the new position. This technique; has a way of confirming, by process of elimination of what is causing the misfire problem.
Since you still don't appear to want to pull the head and inspect it for damage, I'd double check the timing, then I'd test the compression on each cylinder. If you don't have adequate compression on a cylinder, I'd suspect you'd get a misfire code because that cylinder will not be producing any power. You could still have some severe internal engine damage caused by a valve hitting the piston in cylinder #3 causing it to lose compression. Repeated attempts to start the engine when the timing belt wasn't functioning properly could not have been good for the engine.
Unfortunately, this sort of damage sometimes "just happens" with interference engines that have timing belts. It can be caused by a broken timing belt, a broken timing belt tensioner, or a broken water pump (driven by the timing belt on these engines). This sort of failure can happen even when all the proper preventative maintenance is performed by the owner.