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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been covered, but could not find exactly the info I was looking for.

I bought a 2001 Beetle with a 2.0, AT. The lady I bought it from was driving it and it quit on her and now will not start. I found the serpentine belt was off and put it back on. The engine turns over, kinda slow like.

This is what I have done. Checked fuses, charged the battery, heard the fuel pump turn on, checked codes.

The codes I found were: PO418 Secondary Air Injector System Control A Circuit , P0445 EVAP Emission System Purge Control Shorted, P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 2 and P0343 Camshaft Position sensor A Circuit High Bank 1 or Single Sensor. I've cleared them twice and tried to start the engine and each time the same codes come back.

The engine turns over kinda slow like, will not start. I haven't checked for spark yet. It will not start on starting fluid.

Can anyone tell me the common problems and fixes for this problem? Any advice and comments welcomed.
 

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Have you checked the timing belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. The timing belt was intact and looked good. Has since checked for and has spark, fuel up to the injectors, but still no start. Have ordered the camshaft position sensor and O2 sensor and a new starter. Thinking about the crankshaft sensor even though no codes.

Is there someplace that can reflash the computer if it ends up being that?
 

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Basics: ignition spark, compression and fuel.

Spark, you seem to say; you have it?

Compression, did you check it and make sure the timing marks are in phase?

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/new_beetle_gls/l4-2.0l_(avh)/maintenance/timing_belt/component_information/service_and_repair/procedures/

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/new_beetle_gls/l4-2.0l_(avh)/maintenance/tune-up_and_engine_performance_checks/compression_check/system_information/specifications/

Fuel pressure; did you check that with a fuel pressure test gauge?

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/new_beetle_gls/l4-2.0l_(avh)/maintenance/tune-up_and_engine_performance_checks/fuel_pressure/system_information/specifications/pressure_vacuum_and_temperature_specifications/

As for the ecu; they typically are bad or working ok, reflashing wouldn't really help?

trouble codes:

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0418_volkswagen.html

16839/P0455/001109 - Ross-Tech Wiki

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0037.html

16727/P0343/000835 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Have you seen the immobilizer light flash; when you are trying to start the car?

Lots of possible reasons; for the no start condition, hopefully you can narrow down the problem. Let us know; how things go and what you find out. Thanks! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The Immobilizer light goes out while cranking. I have not checked compression. Disconnected fuel line at the injectors, have fuel flow while cranking. Did not do a fuel pressure test. While cranking, the tach will show about 200rpms. I checked for spark by taking plug wire off and putting in a known good spark plug and grounding it and had someone crank it and watched for spark, which it did (an old trick I learned 40 years ago). I have not checked the timing marks to see if timed correctly, belt looked fine.

I'm currently working on clearing the 4 codes. If no start after clearing codes, will check compression.

Vehicle was being driven when it stopped running. Had to be towed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, from what I have read on various sites and topics. the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor send a signal for the injectors and coil pack to operate. Also the camshaft position sensor code can be triggered by low voltage and caused by the cranking/starter circuit or slow cranking situation. The purge valve circuit problem could be caused by the defective or shorted out heated downstream O2 sensor.

Another issue, not sure if correct, that I've read and heard from members of a VW club I belong to is that when the O2 sensor shorts out it will short out the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is what I've done so far. I bought the following parts: starter, cam position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, heated O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator and serpentine belt.

The first thing I did was to clear and erase all codes. I replaced the O2 sensor and then attempted to crank it. No start. I then checked for codes and this is what I got: P0725, P1780 and P1850. Cleared and erased these codes.

I then replaced the crank position sensor and attempted to crank. No start. I then checked for codes again. The only code showing now is the camshaft position sensor. I cleared and erased this code several times and it always comes back.

I'm now in the process of replacing the starter in hope to clear the slow starting.

The only code I have now is the camshaft position sensor.

Will post results after changing the starter. Have one bolt being stubborn.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Codes PO725, P1780 and P1850 went away after changing the crankshaft position sensor. Haven't returned after many crankings.

The only code that I have now is PO343. I have 4.95V at the camshaft senor connector with key on.

The last I checked it had spark.

Where is the TCS located? I'll check it while I'm doing everything else.
 

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http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16727/P0343/000835

Testing info:

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/new_beetle_gls/l4-2.0l_(avh)/powertrain_management/ignition_system/camshaft_position_sensor/component_information/testing_and_inspection/with_manufacturers_scan_tool/

For the transmission code; it is somewhat a generic code, it might be helpful to scan with a vw specific scan tool, like vcds by ross tech, obdeleven or one of the vag scan tools on amazon. The factory vw trouble codes; can give you more specific info and look at live data, to see if things are working as they should (sensors, selectors, etc).

Here is the service manual oages for the aelector; you can look at other parts of the manual for more info on the transmissions sensors, etc:

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/new_beetle_gls/l4-2.0l_(avh)/powertrain_management/transmission_control_systems/actuators_and_solenoids_transmission_and_drivetrain/actuators_and_solenoids_a/t/shift_interlock_solenoid/component_information/service_and_repair/
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll be replacing the camshaft sensor tomorrow.

I have a code reader that I use on my other vehicles. Might checked into one specific for a VW.

I did find when underneath it, when replacing the O2 sensor, that someone had welded in a new catalytic converter.

I'd like to take away the tools from the person that worked on it before and beat them with their tools. Instead of fixing things right, they just rigged things up. Have fixed alot of little things.
 

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Yeah, you are not alone; i don't know why but volkswagens, in my experience, are one of the most rigged vehicles i have worked on. I don't know if it is ignorance on how these cars work or a combination of laziness and ignorance. Some of the rigging i have seen hae been strange, bizarre and in many cases, caused other major failures, in a misguided attempt to repair things, (turbo oil lines blocked off, cooling fans wires connected to the fuse box to run all the time, etc). Ironically enough; most of the time, it would have been easier to repair the problem correctly; rather then, the rigged repairs/modifications, they carried out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I have the cam sensor out. The metal induction ring inside the pulley is pretty grimy, dusty, dirty, how ever you want to call it. It's not shinny at all. The old cam sensor looked to have tiny metal shavings attached to it like a magnet.

These are the VW numbers off the old sensor: 0 232 101 031 BOSCH and 06A 905 161 B.

Question is, how should this be cleaned? Should I get another pulley?
 

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Well, as long as there is no damage to the toothed sprocket and the tone ring is ok, you could start by degreasing it (solvent, brake cleaner or purple power degreaser; has always worked well for me). If it needs rust or corrosion removed; you could use scotch brite pads or maybe a wire wheel to remove it? If the sprocket is aluminum, the purple power degreaser; has worked really well and that way, you don't scratch or abraid the surface of the metal. From the looks of things; it looks functionally ok but it is always a good idea, to degrease parts, on the belt path, before reinstalling them with a new timing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, she's dead. After putting the cam sensor in I had my son crank it. Saw that the cam was not turning but the bottom was. I couldn't get the cam to turn in either direction, with the belt off.

Most likely bent valve(s) in the head and it locked upped.

I took the bottom crankshaft cover off and found the reason. See picture.

Ole Blue turned into a parts car.
 

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Ugh, sorry to hear that; you might line up the timing marks correctly and install a new timing belt. Then, you could do a compression test; most likely bent valves but we have had some lucky members, who have had something of a "miracle" timing belt failure and come out unscathed, (go figure). I guess, you never know; until you check things out and give it a try? Let us know, what you decide; to do next, the 2.0L engine, is very plentiful used/rebuilt and replacement parts, rebuilt heads, are typically pretty affordable. Here is a diy, if you decide; to tackle the head replacement yourself:

https://www.newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/25533-well-i-did.html
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The camshaft wouldn't budge in either directions, and that was with a breaker bar. Might consider doing the head, but for now I'll push it behind the building.
 
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