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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from Vancouver, Canada - I'm asking for a friend HA HA. Actually, I'm asking for my daughter because her bonehead Dad (me) and Mom were unsuccessful moving her immobilizer chip over to a new key fob housing with new key:
  • we swapped the bottom half over from her old remote without any problems, but I think my wife didn't heat the immobilizer enough and it looks like there might be a small crack in the chip in the top half
  • the car turns over but doesn't idle (no surprise) and she can live without a second key and fob, but immediately after:
    • the EPC light stayed on as well as the check engine
    • I pulled the OBD codes yesterday and got one: P0321 (Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance) - I was hoping this was from the faulty chip, but thinking it might not be
    • and today it threw a P0302 code (Cylinder 2 Misfire Condition) when the car was put into drive
    • the car hasn't been driven since we tried swapping the remote housing, mostly because she hasn't need to drive it
  • the kid is pissed at me and trying to sort this out. is this just bad timing and the immobilizer didn't cause the check engine lights - I think maybe the first code, but not the 2nd one, right?
Regarding a new key fob - can someone suggest a good source for one other than the dealer? I've saw some from USARemote via Amazon with good reviews, but it's not clear if they come with a new immobilizer chip or not. Also, is the programming I see online with the ignition - the programming for the immobilizer chip? It looks simple enough and I'm willing to try if it works. The OEM fobs are almost $300 CAD and that's just insane.

Thanks! Jim
 

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The first trouble code; could definitely, cause a no start or hard start condition.

The issue with the immobilizer; could be a secondary issue and it is possible, to damage the rfid chip, that resides in the key fob.

To learn more about the immobilizer system; how it works and how you can get new keys, rfid chips, etc. Check out these links:



Seeing, how you have other, known good keys; I would try to address, the engine speed/crank sensor issue and if you replace it, get a high quality oem Bosch sensor and not poor quality aftermarket parts, for crucial things like sensors.

After the crank sensor code and issue is resolved, let us know if this run well after that, you may have other misfire issues that need addressed.

After that, we can discuss; the key fob issue and see, if you still have starting problems, after the crank sensor code, possible new sensor, works out, we can go from there. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @billymade this is great info. I'm not super technical and will need to reply on a tech for some of this, but do you think the car is okay to drive? or do you think the Cylinder 2 code is something I need to deal with right away?

Thanks!
 

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Does the car start and run? If the immobilizer is kicking in, what will happen is the car will start and shut off after running 2 seconds and the immobilizer light will flash.

If your car is starting and running it may have initially thrown an immo code but have resolved itself, if it starts and runs.

As for the #2 misfire you should definitely address that. Anything from a loose plug wire, bad plug or coil, plugged/dead injector, bad valve etc. if the car was running ok before the key fob I would look at a loose wire or bad plug or coil.;

I have a friend who I think uses acetone to dissolve the glue that holds that rfid chip in the key fob so he can move it from one fob to another.
 

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If the car is starting and running I think you may have been successful in moving the rfid chip, you may not want to get the fob wet if the chip is cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the great feedback and info!

Sorry for any confusion - I have two key fobs, the one I swapped the immobilizer is fubar now and the car turns over, but doesn't idle. The car started and starts fine with the untouched remote, but I did get the P0321 code and EPC - which I cleared and hasn't come back. I got the P0302 code the next day, which I cleared and don't think has come back.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the first code is resolved now - miraculously by using the working remote? and maybe, just maybe the second code was just a glitch - but I'm not holding my breath on that one.

Should my kid just drive the car and see if the P0302 code comes back? or will this leave her stranded?

Jim
 

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So, did you address the engine speed/crank sensor and replace it? Typically, the issue crops up, as a intermittent problem; when the engine is hot but then, it will get worse, may end up with a no or hard start condition. A misfire issue, should be addressed; how, is the car running, at this time?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@billymade - the car isn't driven much and hasn't been driven since late last week (4 or 5 days ago). I haven't addressed the sensor yet as it was weekend when I posted this. The car seems to start normally now and I drove it around the block without throwing any codes.

I'll definitely address it so my kid doesn't have too many problem but won't be able to until later this week. We'll probably try driving it a bit tomorrow (Monday) around the neighbourhood, before venturing too far away from home.

So, did you address the engine speed/crank sensor and replace it? Typically, the issue crops up, as a intermittent problem; when the engine is hot but then, it will get worse, may end up with a no or hard start condition. A misfire issue, should be addressed; how, is the car running, at this time?
 
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