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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I’ve had my bug for about two years and as of recently, shortly after we disconnected and reconnected the battery it began dying at random. It doesn’t seem to matter what speed or gear it’s in or gas level, and we have replaced just about everything we could but still have yet to find the problem. When I say we’ve replaced everything I mean it, battery alternator, fuel pump fuel filter spark plugs ignition module, I am at an absolute loss 😩. I love this car, it’s my first car and it really has been great up until this. We are going to next replace the car shaft sensor, but if that doesn’t work I don’t know whether to keep throwing parts at it, or junk it. The first couple times it has died it started as just loss of acceleration and it would start slowing down until it turned off the power steering, I still have all my accessory function when it does this, but as of recently it started braking when I would hit the gas, it would just slow me down further. Then we replaced the ignition module and it seemed to fix it, I made it to work that day but I could feel as I was driving that it was “hiccuping” and then on the way home from work it did this really weird thing were it would slow down and then rev and slow down and rev as if I was stomping back and forth between the gas and brake (but I wasn’t). Again I love this car we keep throwing parts at it but it doesn’t seem to work, can somebody please try and help, I have read tons of posts on the forums and nobody ever replies whether or not they were able to fix it or not.
 

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You are not alone with these types of issues; as always, a full scan for trouble codes, are in order and then, post up what you find, that will hopefully help diagnose the stalling issues and narrow down, the cause of the problem. As you have expereinced; "throw parts at the problem" without correct diagnosis; typically doesn't fix problems and is just guessing, hoping it will fix the problem without a scan tool or correct testing procedures, you are essentially flying blind. Historically, we have seen, these issues cause this problem: failing engine crank/speed sensor, charging issues, failing fuel pumps, fuel pump relays, a dirty/carboned up throttle body, this can be cleaned and aligned with a vw scan tool like vcds by ross tech, etc.

Also, let us know; what year, model, engine and transmission you have. For the codes, most auto parts stores; will scan your car for free and give you a print out of the offending codes. Give us more info and the results of the scan and we can go from there. Don't give up; you are not alone with these issues and they CAN be fixed! :) Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The car is a 2001 vw beetle 2.0 manual, it doesn’t register any codes that’s why we have just been throwing parts at it hoping to find the issue. The only lights or codes I get is when it initially dies and I take it out of gear the battery light comes on, but the fact I still have use of all the accessories means it’s not the battery and I took it to the shop he doesn’t get any codes told me it was the ignition module because of lack of spark or something, I’m not a car guy, but I looked up the module really inexpensive and easy swap so I picked up my car. When I picked up the car however I was very aggravated to find it was now showing up a check engine light. My boyfriend scanned the codes and it came up with 2, 1)fuel injector circuit open circuit and 2)cylinder 1 misfire my boyfriend said it might’ve tripped the code just while the mechanic was unplugging things so he cleared the codes and they have yet to come back as far as I know. But now when it dies instead of tripping the battery light like before, now it is the CEL. So of course my boyfriend and the code reader are never around when it decides to die and if I turn the engine off and back on again the codes are gone and I’m able to continue driving it like nothing happened.
 

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A young girl that drives a stick. Kudos, my daughter has a 2001 white beetle TDI 5 spd, she’s been from Boston to Corpus Christi with that thing, she loves it. She taught her boyfriend how to drive a stick and she intimidates other guys because she can and they can’t. I just get a kick out of watching her with that bug.


Billy is right get it scanned. A possibility is getting an inexpensive ELM code reader of amazon and downloading the Torque app to your android phone. If you’re like me and have an iPhone then you’ll have to find something else like obdeleven.



Looks like obdeleven is for Android also.


Ultragauge works with an iphone
 

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y2k Reflex Beetle 1.8t
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Try unplugging the maf sensor and see if the problem goes away. Mine was stalling and doing the rpm cycling thing and that was the issue, no codes thrown. You can run it without it for a limited time but it'll run rich, foul plugs and ruin your cat if you do it for too long. Sometimes they can be cleaned by soaking in rubbing alcohol, but mine couldn't so I had to replace it. Dealership wanted $303, vw parts vortex was 170, bosch are 75, knockoffs are cheaper but not recommended (if the maf is your issue ).
A cheap code reader is about $20 online, totally worth it. I got a v-gate icar2 and like it, just get the one compatible to android or iphone whichever you have.
Cam sensor isn't a bad guess, worth a shot. There's also a crank sensor and and a throttle position sensor.
If you have a multimeter or can get one, make sure your battery is charging (yes, I saw you replaced it and the alternator) but it could be a bad ground wire or the fuses on top of the battery, and accessories will still work if your car stalls from low power).
Could be the fuel filter too as long as we're guessing.
My money is on the maf. Stick with it, you got this.
 

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Here’s the ultragauge website. I use the ultragauge blue in my car all the time, hooked to my phone so I can see what’s going on with my car.


Y2kreflexbeetle has some good suggestions. MAF, crank or cam censor, a diesel doesn’t have a throttle position sensor so I defer to him and billy on that. I’ve never owned a vw that requires spark plugs.

A cheap multimeter is a great investment you can tell in less than 2 minutes if your car is not charging, you have a dead battery and a multitude of other electrical related problems. Go on you tube for a crash course on how to use one. Walmart has cheap ones for less than $30. Anybody who can drive a stick won’t have a problem figuring it out.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for all the suggestions I’ll have my boyfriend read through them with me and see if we can’t try and see if one of these is the problem. He has an OMDII scanner that we used to read the codes that were new after getting it back from the shop, but again he cleared those and they have yet to come back so that’s a good sign I guess we have already replaced the fuel filter so we can see next about the sensors or MAF but I think I will go to Walmart and get the multimeter to see what it has to say about my electrical problems. At this point I know it’s electrical because mechanically the car runs beautifully 😩.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine however is not a diesel so I suppose I will be changing all three sensors just to say I did and going from there, but we already replaced the spark plugs coil pack and ignition module so after that we are really going to be stumped. If it doesn’t work out next guess is the ECU all together.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Start with scanning the car again. If the CEL has come on, there are codes stored. It could be your reader can't see them, as you might need a VW specific scanner to see all the codes there.
 

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As noted, get the current codes scanned and post codes you find, NOT just the descriptions of the codes. Please, don't just start buying, using the "parts cannon" and replacing a bunch of sensors; try to diagnose the problem correctly and it will save you, time, money and frustration. Seeing, how you have not had any persistant codes; from what you are saying, a common issue on the 2.0L engine, is a dirty throttle body, which can cause the car to run rough and die (especially, when you slow down; like, stopping at a stop light). You can clean and align the throttle body; not hard to do, ideally you would run a throttle body alignment procedure with a scan tool like VCDS by Ross Tech, OBDeleven but if not available, you can just turn the key on, let it sit for a couple of minutes, you should be ok. A can of throttle or carb cleaner and possibly; a new gasket, some metric hex sockets and you should be able to do the cleaning (sometimes; you can reuse the gasket but they are cheap, usually in stock at most auto parts stores)

For more info; check out this video:


PS: if you do decide to replace some sensors; stick with high quality oem sensor from Bosch, do NOT buy cheaper aftermarket parts, that are sold at most auto parts stores. You can look up the correct part #; on the Bosch parts online catalog here:


If you are going to keep this Volkswagen long term; I would seriously considor, investing in a VW specific scan tool, like VCDS by Ross Tech or OBDeleven, the investment is really worth it, will save you money in the long run and with those tools, we can help guide your through, testing, using them to figure things out and ultimatley fix your car! Remember, we are here to help and want you to succeed and get things fixed! However, to fix things; you may need to invest in some of the better vw specific scan tools. That can really help us help you (one you can get handle of things; you can just do it yourself), allow you to really take control of your repair/troubleshooting process and ultimately, fix your New Beetle! :)


 
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