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2001 VW Beetle ... coolant circulation issue

2248 Views 25 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Russhaus
Temperature gets hot .. no fans .. fans do work on AC ..

Here's the flowchart ... changed oil, flushed coolant system, installed G12 via vacuum unit, ran hot, got motivated - installed new water pump, timing belt, tensioner, transmission cooler, oil cooler, thermostat, coolant flange, temp sensor, temp switch in radiator, coolant reservoir, multiple hoses, FCM, checked all fuses, no leaks at all ...
Upper hose warms first and then the upper after running a while ...

Using OBD2 to monitor coolant temp. Fans will not engage at 96 C or any higher temp. Temp gets up to 220 F and I stop engine at that point. Ran a jumper on the harness and fans do run at low and high speeds.

Flushed radiator and water flows clean and strong. When I removed the thermal switch at the bottom, I was able to pull out several pieces of rubber gasket material. Picture enclosed. VW dealer parts department, nor local auto parts store, have any idea where the gasket material originated, nor how it ended up lodged in the radiator clogging the area by the thermal switch. But they say definitely not head gasket or valve cover gasket. They looked up all the gaskets on their computers and nothing matched the pieces you see in the pic. There is likely some still lodged where I can't reach it ... So ... there's a mystery for one of you experts !

This likely is causing a circulation restriction, prohibiting hot coolant from activating the thermal fan switch. I used a hot blower on the switch and the fans did come on.

So ... can coolant flow through the radiator, but still be restricted somewhere inside the RAD unit, preventing the switch from reaching operating temp? Replacing the radiator, and fans while I'm there, is my next step ... but that disassembly sucks ... Hoping one of you fine experts can help me complete this journey ... Much appreciate this site and all the value it provides ... Russhaus

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Based upon the shape: i would assume, these maybe parts of the inner gasket; that seals, the plastic top/bottom of the radiator? After so many years and thousands of heat cycles; i can see the inside of the radiator, start to deteriorate and fall apart, causing obstruction to coolant flow. If you replace it, you might do a radiator flow "autopsy", by removing the plastic tanks and see what debris is inside, what is clogged up. If this was inside the coolant radiator; i wonder if some of the debris traveled to other areas of the cooling system (the return hose to the coolant bottle; being the most notorious)? If you decide to replace the radiator; i believe Behr is the oem for VW.

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Based on your description you need not only a new radiator but also new fans. Does any water come out of the little hose that is fastened to the top of the coolant ball? If you remove the radiator cap and look inside the ball coolant should be flowing into the ball from the hose when the car is running.

Here is a fan assembly and radiator from a reputable source mainly for diesels but the coolant parts will be the same.

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I like the fan assembly it’s made by TYC not Behr but I’ve installed two of them they seem well made and most important, they work.
Based upon the shape: i would assume, these maybe parts of the inner gasket; that seals, the plastic top/bottom of the radiator? After so many years and thousands if heat cycles; i can see the inside of the radiator, start to deteriorate and fall apart, causing obstruction to coolant flow. If you replace it; you might do a "autopsy, by removing the plastic tanks and see what debris is inside, what is clogged up. If this was inside the coolant radiator; i wonder if some of the debris traveled to other areas of the cooling system (the return hose to the coolant bottle; being the most notorious)? If you decide to replace the radiator; i believe Behr is the oem for VW.

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Many thanks for the replies ... Indeed ... looks like a radiator and fans replacement ... It's basically all that's left regarding circulation. The return line does flow freely into the reservoir, as mentioned by another kind post. Appreciate the prompt replies and suggestions. Will advise once I conquer the next phase. At least it's not really difficult ... just tedious !! Kind regards !!! Russhaus
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Many thanks for the replies ... Indeed ... looks like a radiator and fans replacement ... It's basically all that's left regarding circulation. The return line does flow freely into the reservoir, as mentioned by another kind post. Appreciate the prompt replies and suggestions. Will advise once I conquer the next phase. At least it's not really difficult ... just tedious !! Kind regards !!! Russhaus
Long time since update ... here's where the journey stands ... Replaced the entire cooling system basically ... radiator, fans, module, reservoir, hoses, thermostat, flanges, what else .... I think a previous overheat cooked the solenoids in the valve body ... Current OBD reading shows coolant runs at 206 range and trans runs at 226 range ... since replacing the coolng system, have also replaced valve body, trans fluid, gasket, harness, trans cooler ... and got rewarded with a fabulous P0768 ... solenoid D blah blah blah ... time to find a cliff unless one of you fine folks can provide counceling and possible next step !!! Thanks .... Pete
What scan tool; are you using?
I have a Harbor Freight OBDII ... that will read Engine and A/T ... item: 60694 .... And I do wonder as to accuracy ,,, Ross Tech has been a bit to expensive, but by now, should have invested ....
It would be helpful to have a vw specific scan tool, rather then a generic scanner; do you have the 01M auto transmission?
It would be helpful to have a vw specific scan tool, rather then a generic scanner; do you have the 01M auto transmission?
Yes ... 01M ...
Good video going over trouble codes; common problems and testing procedures.

Looking at the Harbor Freight brand Centech scanner #60694; it does seem to be capable of reading live data but I do not think, it would be able to read specific tranmission info.


Testing and live data; shown using VCDS in this video:


Aside from the valve body.or solenoid issues and internal ribbon harness; lately, we have seen electrical issues at: the plug, on the external wiring harness, that connects to the internal wiring harness ribbon cable. Damaged wires, plug, plastic locking retainer and internal pins, being corroded, damaged, bent, pushed out of the plug, causing loss of contact or other damage, has caused electrical problems, resulting in tranmission related trouble codes, shifting problems.


P0768 VOLKSWAGEN - Shift Solenoid 'D' Electrical

Read more: P0768 Volkswagen - Shift Solenoid 'D' Electrical


Looking at the 01M service manual:


"D" = K3 Shift Valve

#3 N90 = K3 Shift Solenoid (EV3)


Pinout for the harness/plug and solenoid location info:


After repairs are completed; it would be advisable, to reset the basic settings and clearing the tcm: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission (01M) - Ross-Tech Wiki
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The above should get you started; testing, visual inspections and viewing live data, can all be used, to narrow down the problem. Then, hopefully, pinpoint, the cause of the trouble code and fix your transmission problem.
Amazing input ... will study up and provide update once I get a good handle on all this great info. Many thanks ....
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Hi Billymade ... sorry again to be less than timely on feedback. I was so encouraged to hear my VW fans turn on when the engine coolant temp approached spec. That repair has worked ! I have recently purchased the Vag Com tool directly from Ross Tech, and love the detail it provides. Here is the printout that defines the solenoid issue:

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 JF
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4833
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 7DA7F3E894E36603184-0962

1 Fault Found:
00264 - Solenoid Valve 4 (N91)
36-00 - Open Circuit

It very closely resembles the VWCoolair posts. I have ordered the N91 solenoid and will replace that solenoid in my "newly rebuilt" valve body(Wolfsburg). If it solves the issue, could it be I received a valve body with a faulty, perhaps untested solenoid? Don't want to go there ... but am very curious, of course, if this fixes the problem. Appreciate any further feedback. I will OHM check the solenoid once I replace. What a learning curve !!!!! Kind regards ... Pete
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The wiring harness, clips to attach to the solenoid and external harness, connecting plug being damaged are issues we have seen lately; don't overlook the whole circuit going to the solenoid as well, not just the solenoid itself.

Testing of a solenoid:


solenoid trouble code and replacement:

So, after inspecting and replacing the radiator; was that the fix, for your problem (clogged radiator) or was it something else, to finally fix the cooling issue?
Indeed ... all progress led to that being the likelihood, and logical next step. Your conclusion is accurate because the fans did come on while idling recently. Basically a brand new coolant system at this point. Your expertise will contribute to the database of coolant problem solving. No where in the forums do we find radiator gasket pieces creating clogs mentioned, until your post. So, well done !!! Others will benefit !!!

And, the overheating caused by the clog likely led to the array of Solenoid codes that occurred. Of course that led to the valve body journey, of which I think we're closing in on, once I do that solenoid replacement. Will certainly advise ... Ross Tech pretty much points to electrical wiring or the actual solenoid ... I did install a new harness with the valve body swap. Presently in limp mode, unless I clear the code, but it returns once the trans warms up. Also the code did adjust from Intermittent:
00264 - Solenoid Valve 4 (N91)
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

to Open Circuit:
00264 - Solenoid Valve 4 (N91)
36-00 - Open Circuit

the second time I ran the scan. Not sure if that verifies anything ....

Kind Regards ... Pete
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Did you replace the internal ribbon harness/clips; lately, we have been seeing the external harness and the plug (in particular), causing circuit connection problems. The last person, had damage to the external plug and the terminal pins, were pushed out of the plug, killing the circuit connection.

Plug damage: for 09g but principles, possible damage, could be the same:

Indeed ... ordered a new ribbon cable with the valve body. Clips felt like they plugged in securely upon install.
I would check the external wiring and plug as well.
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