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My daughter bought a used beetle, since we had it the battery used to drain within a day or two. I have now replaced two alternators, three batteries,and when I test for a draw across the negative cables I get 0.15mili apms that should not be enough to drain the battery over night. I have just replaced the key ignition switch, put in another brand new battery, when I scan it with vag-com I have no problems. When I arm my car the horn does beep to arm the car and all of the interior lights are off. I have a monsoon radio system in the car from VW I know the amp is not drawing anything and it is good. I have no aftermarket product in this car at all. It is all original VW parts. When I disconnect the negative cable and test the car for two or three days straight I have no problems with the battery drain. Soon as the connect the negative battery cable and the car is used for a week. Then the drain comes back. Not able to catch the drain and where it is coming from. I have spent hundreds of hours trying to track it down. I have brought the car to VW specialists. When the car is at the shops the car behaves like it should. When the car comes back home the drain begins. I have pulled every fuse out of the box to see if I had a drain when I put the fuse in. I have exhausted all of my possibilities to solve this problem. I have read numerous posts all over the web and still can not find a solution. Can someone shed some light on how to solve this problem??
 

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What year and model new beetle are we talking about; do you have the monsoon stereo system? (as you know) The monsoon amp; is known for draw issues, you might just disconnect the stereo and amp to see if the problem goes away. It sounds like this is a real tough one to diagnose. While I cannot give you specific help; troubleshooting is a process of elimination. Hopefully, you can start crossing off things; as you test, find the culprit! Good luck!

Here is a diy; on finding parasitic draws on our cars:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...st-parasitic-drain-new-beetle.html#post942185
 

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Wife's 01 1.8T mechanic
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Disconnect your positive battery cable. Run your ammeter in series between the battery and the cable. Note the amp draw. Start pulling fuses one at a time, checking the draw each time. When the readout drops, you've found your circuit with the draw. Then, you go through that circuit to see what the problem is.
 

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Fix/replace the aux water pump, you will be sorry if you don't. It should run for 10 minutes everytime the ignition is turned off.

As for testing for a draw, if you do not have an Ampmeter, a standard test light will work as well put in series with a disconnected battery cable.

Amazon.com: Circuit Tester 6V / 12V DC Systems Long Probe Continuity Test Light Car Voltage: Automotive

Also do you own a Voltmeter, if not, check this out, for $18, you cannot go wrong - Mastech MS8211 Pen-Type Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter with Non-contact AC Voltage Detector: Multi Testers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

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Fix/replace the aux water pump, you will be sorry if you don't. It should run for 10 minutes everytime the ignition is turned off.

As for testing for a draw, if you do not have an Ampmeter, a standard test light will work as well put in series with a disconnected battery cable.

Amazon.com: Circuit Tester 6V / 12V DC Systems Long Probe Continuity Test Light Car Voltage: Automotive

Also do you own a Voltmeter, if not, check this out, for $18, you cannot go wrong - Mastech MS8211 Pen-Type Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter with Non-contact AC Voltage Detector: Multi Testers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Do what he says and you can get a free volt meter from harbor freight .. I get coupons all the time for that. Also billymade said that the amp is a known problem so that would be #1 on your list when youre pulling stuff!
 

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amp meter

Another way which I believe is easier than disconnecting stuff is using a small clamp on meter like this one. Just clamp it around each wire off the fuse box or battery and you can read how much current each wire is pulling while the car is either on or off. I agree with turboturbo the fan control module is known to stay stuck and runs things for too long.
 

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I also agree on the fan control module being the culprit. I've had my A/C clutch burn out and the battery drain overnight due to a faulty control module keeping the a/c clutch engaged while the car is off.
 
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