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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The dealer had it for 3 weeks and all they could come up with was the fuel pump was overheating. They did not replace it because the car cranked after it cooled down and continued to crank. That was back in November 2014 and now it's doing it again. I was thinking about changing the fuel pump myself rather than going back to them. Any suggestions from the field. Sorry so lengthy but this is my first time doing this.
 

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There are a number of issues; that could cause a no start condition. Have you scanned the car with a scan tool? Immobilizer and crank sensor failures, ignition switch failures; can cause the car, to not start (these are separate issues from the fuel pump). You could start by testing the fuel pump with a fuel pressure gage. Here is a thread that should help you with troubleshooting and testing, new fuel pump info:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/105681-fuel-pressure-question.html#post1198929

Which engine and transmission; does you new beetle have? Please update; your vehicle profile info, that way we can help you more intelligently, in the future! Thanks!

PS: if you had a genuine vw fuel pump part installed; I believe there is a one year/12k mile warranty on the part, if in fact it failed.

Parts Limited Warranty.

Warranty replacement parts are covered within the remaining portion of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty or within 1 year or 12,000 miles, whichever is greater.

Customer-purchased parts are covered within 1 year or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first, beginning on the date of sale to the retail customer. If the part is installed, the installation date is considered the retail date.

New or remanufactured parts installed during the warranty period are covered for any unused portion of the New Vehicle, Powertrain, or Emissions Warranties, or for the time and mileage limits of the Volkswagen Parts Warranties, whichever is greater.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What would be a good scan tool to purchase? The speed sensor was replaced back in 2010 and the immobilizer was replaced Aug of last year.
 

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There are many inexpensive VW compatible scan tools on Amazon; just search "vag scanner", some claim to be able to do coding but the less than $50 versions just read/clear codes . For key matching/coding; you will need the secret key code by using Vag Tacho and matching using Ross Tech VCDS or Vag Tacho. Www.fixmyvw.com offers the rental of a genuine Vag Tacho for $25; theoretically, it should be able to do the whole process without VCDS. Otherwise, you could have a local auto locksmith or Vw dealer do it for you.

In my experience; electric fuel pump problems and failures were directly related to ambient temperatures; most fail in the summer.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok the car has been at the dealer for two weeks. They ordered a new key because the old ones could not be reprogrammed. The car cranks but shuts off after a few minutes. If they are the dealer and they can't figure it out, what is the next step. Call the VW headquarters?
 

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Well, what is the service manager telling you and what solutions are they pursuing,? What is the repair bill; at this point? You might take the car to a different shop; one that specializes in Volkswagens, many vw dealerships are not good at troubleshooting or they may have put your car on the back burner. Based upon what you were saying; did you want to try to fix things yourself or take it somewhere else?
 

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If the car is shutting off after a few minutes then its not a key/immobilizer issue. The immobilizer would shut the car down in a few seconds.

Sounds like the dealer is just throwing parts without troubleshooting. But as billymade said, what is the dealer saying their thoughts are and what are they doing? Often dealers aren't very good at troubleshooting, especially on older cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm at a lost. they ordered a new key and now the tell me the car won't stay cranked more than a minute. the codes are showing immobilizer and sensor. Both have been replaced one less than a year ago. So they say they think it might be wiring which would exceed the value of the car if they continued.. I asked could the immobilizer be disconnected since it's only an anti theft device. They said they can't so I told them I would have the car towed and pay them for the key and diagnostic fee. I refuse to believe this car is dead. it only has 120,000. miles for a 2002.I appreciate any help you can provide. I'm mechanical inclined and very patient. I need something to practice my skill on anyway. LoL!
 

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Please post any codes you get; we need the actual trouble code and not a description of what they are. Do you have access to a vw compatible scan tool or VCDS? You need to bring some sanity; to your troubleshooting process by at the very basic level reading the codes. Things maybe complicated or things could be simple like a bad fuel pump or crank sensor.

Immobilizer:

If you try to repair things yourself; you may need advanced scan tool features, that Vag Tacho and VCDS provide. When there is a problem with the immobilizer; the immo light will flash in the speedo cluster. If in fact it is, the immobilizer; then you have two options:

1. Repair the immobilizer system: diagnose what is causing the problem and replace, code and match the new parts.

2. Defeat the immobilizer by sending off the ecu: to a vw tuner for about $50. Check out Ian @ reflect tuning for this service.

Don't over complicate things but get the codes, then we will try to help you diagnose things. You also; need to decide if you want to fix things yourself or have a pro figure it out. Basically, how far down the rabbit hole do you want to go?




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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I've requested them to send me the codes that they are getting. I will post them today once I get them. I do not have any diagnostic equipment but will purchase one because this is the only vehicle I've had constant issues with repeatedly.the dealer still has the vehicle. I'm looking at the price of a new key and reprogramming plus diagnostic fees at this point.<300.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I finally had the car towed back home from the dealer. They stated that manufacturer
told them to pull the dash and start tracing wires. Really! here are the codes that came up on their diagnostic. 19497 35 P3041, 17978 35 P1570, 16705 35 P0321. The technician said that they reset all of these and tested the vehicle and it still does the same thing. I noticed the car cranks but shuts off immediately and the immobilizer light is flashing. I want to disable the immobilizer and hopefully that will solve this issue. That's what the technician said he had to do on his 2002 Passat that was doing the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The instrument cluster was replaced last year this same month. The speed sensor was replaced but that's been about 5 years ago. I'm assuming that can be tested to see if it's working. I will replace that since it's not very expensive and easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so your're suggesting I replace both the crank sensor and speed sensor before tackling the immobilizer?
 

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Well, those are classic issues; that cause a no start problem (speedo/crank sensor) or hard start issues (coolant temp sensor)., it would be interesting to see how the car acts after they are replaced (speed/crank sensor) (coolant temp sensor). They could be inter related or they could be a separate issue(s). I have had all of those things fail on my car; the final fix for my intermittent immobilizer problem: was a new speedo cluster (or get yours repaired). My immo problem would show up as: at car start: engine would start for a few seconds, engine would die and the immo light would be flashing (throws code: engine stopped by immobilizer). A hard reset or just letting the car sit, with the key in the ignition, would reset the immo and the car could start, the immobilizer would stop blinking.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I spoke with Ian and he stated that the immobilizer is probably 99% the problem especially since the light is flashing. He offered to bypass the immobilizer and that should fix this once and for all. That's why I'm seeking the forum wisdom and knowledge. The immobilizer fix is only $50 and probably will have to be done since the other things have been previously done but every 7-8 months I'm at this same fork in the road with the car shutting down. Thank God I have 3 other reliable vehicles so I can experiment. LoL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
The cluster was just replaced 10 August 2014. I took the cable off trying to do a reset and it didn't work at the time.I just went back hours later and the car is running fine. No immobilizer or anything flashing. This is crazy. I'm still having the immobilizer disable because who know how long this is gonna last before it acts crazy. I don't wanna chance it. Any comments?
 

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It just depends on your approach and how long you want to troubleshoot the problem; plus, if you want the immobilizer to remain intact.

This was my troubleshooting/repair process:

1. replaced terminal ends at the key/reader coil: apparently, the wires to the terminal ends and the terminal ends themselves, get stressed when the steering column, get adjusted. (immobilizer did not come on as often)
2. replaced the ignition switch, melted wires, plug at the switch and coil reader/tumbler (less immo coming on but would still come on intermittently)
3. replaced the speedo cluster and recoded all the keys, softcoding, transferred odometer reading, etc. (problem went away and has never come back).

NOTE: keep in mind; ANY part of the immobilizer system that fails or has a problem, will cause the immo to come on (e.g.: transponder in the key fob, reader coil, wiring, immobilizer chip in the cluster, correct key coding/matching, etc.) Everything has to work together perfectly; any ONE thing, will trip the immobilizer.

At $50 it would bypass the issue but the immobilizer light and codes, most likely will remain.
 
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