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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Hello. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction here, if I’m even posting this in the right spot. First thing I’m a girl and this is my first VW, Please dont be mean to me, I’ve worked on cars here and there with my dad but they were mostly Chevrolet, so if I say something completely stupid that you think everyone should already know about VW please overlook me, I just wanna learn everything that I possibly can about my car and all integrated systems within it, so I’m never stuck in a situation like I am now, where I can’t get home, ever again. I don’t have a Vag-Com (which really sucks, I know) I wanna buy one but they are expensive! I wanna make an informed decision before I spent hundreds of dollars on something to make sure it’s what I want and all I need. At the moment I do have a Autel Auto-link 315, which does do some limited live data and it does separate the engine and transmission into two separate modules. Anyways, first thing I wanna note is that my check engine light has NEVER illuminated to my knowledge. Not when you have KOEO or if you start it or whatever, don’t know if someone disabled it or if it’s a wiring or bulb issue?? Not sure if it’s even related just wanna give as much detail as I can. Another thing that happened before the limp mode is that my key just randomly gets stuck in the ignition and won’t come out till it feels like it. Might be a week, might be 30 mins, but its always annoying. Lol. (seems to happen ALOT more if my battery gets low).
My car started to smoke horribly. Scared me thought it was a head gasket or cracked head but after visually inspecting everything, only thing I found, was that my fan for the engine had cut completely thru 2 of the wires and half way through the last wire that run over to the AC fan from the engine fan. Made repair by soldering wires back together and heat shrinking the repaired area. ( don’t know if that was the correct thing to do but the car DOESNT SMOKE AT ALL NOW) I have no idea why?? Then I noticed the little plastic plug that covers an extra hole in the coolant flange, that for some reason, is stupidly right about the G68 sensor plug, was leaking coolant. No parts place in this tiny town, even knew to what I was referring, when I tried to find one to replace it. So I took the coolant temperature sensor out of my other bug which is a 2003 1.8 turbo (I lucked across and got really really cheap for future parts) I wish it would have been a 2.0 but you can’t have everything ;). I stuck the sensor in the hole just to stop the leak bc I don’t think G12 is good for electrical anything. Lol. Okay. Then the limp mode started. It used to only happen when it was cold outside for some reasonbut now it’s all the time. I clear the codes it comes straight back. There’s a few codes when you scan the transmission and just one from the engine. They are as follows:
Stored codes are-
P0722- output speed sensor circuit no signal.
P0715- Input/ turbine speed sensor A circuit.
Pending codes are-
P0722-output speed sensor circuit no signal.
P0730- Incorrect gear ratio.
On the engine control module the only code is
P0134- 02 sensor circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1 Sensor 1.
No pending codes.
I find that O2 sensor one weird bc I can see the values changing when I’m in the live data section. Another weird thing if I go into live data on on the engine control module it displays correctly the MPH of the vehicle when it’s moving. The speedometer on my dash works fine and my cruise control last time I tried to use it, haven’t drove the car unless I absolutely have too bc I’m afraid of making something fixable into something that is not. But If I go into the live data on the A/T control module it always stays at 0 mph. In every gear no matter your speed it reads 0. But the computer is giving the info to the engine module somehow but not the A/T module. Sorry this is so long guys. I really hope someone takes the time outta their day to read it and help me bc i just don’t know where to start. Oh yea I did check the voltage on the G 68 pin one (yellow wire) and it was 2.514V which I’m pretty sure that’s in spec with the 01M. I was reading somewhere that you could check the resistance somehow and tell if your sensor was good but I don’t know how to do that exactly and was scared I was gonna mess something up. I don’t mess with electronic systems unless I’m 100% sure I know the correct procedure and I’m not gonna fry anything. I have never checked the level or changed the trans fluid and filter on this car, not real sure the proper procedure without VagCom. I also have no idea if anyone has ever changed the filter or fluid. It has 183,809 on the ODM at the moment. I did buy some Full synthetic fluid yesterday, but I gotta get a filter still. I guess I’m gonna attempt to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter as soon as I can squeeze a time slot into my friends garage when he’s got an open spot. Any advice on that would be appreciated too. But I’ll shut up now and post this I probably done gave you guys a head ache from having to read all this. Lol.
 

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We have seen these trans codes before; wiring or sensor failures are common. Check out these threads for more info:


 

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Oxygen sensor:


testing procedure:

 

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Key stuck:

This, has been a issue people have complained about; some have sprayed carb cleaner or lubricant into the key lock, this has helped. Otherwise, I had a similar issue and ended up having to replace the key tumbler, switch and this resolved the problem, others, had to replace the barrel/wheel lock as well. You might try the clean and lube first; see, if that helps.

Basic overview of the assembly:


service manual info:


 

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You have a number of issues; you will need, to work through them, one by one and hopefully, fix your various issues. Let us know, how your diagnosis and repairs go; we can go from there. Thanks.
 

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No engine light on start up means someone probably disabled the light by putting a piece of electric tape over it, painting the bulb black, or breaking the bulb. These clusters are very easy to remove and access.
 

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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the great info. I drained out my trans fluid and topped it back off using the correct protocol with the car level and fluid temp reading ect... But still in limp mode. I have read so many posts about checking the sensors that I'm now more confused than ever. On the G68 sensor which is a hall effect sensor from my understanding, it has three wires, I'm assuming power ground and reference voltage?( signal wire? ) my terminology may be incorrect there but my question is how can I test the g68 with it still in the car. I've read something about doing resistance check on it but I wanna make sure I'm not gonna mess anything up worse. I know you check for resistance between certain pins, but which pins and what should said resistance be? If anyone can tell me the correct way to do this so I don't break something else I would greatly appreciate it. Another question, I have a 2003 glx 1.8 turbo beetle are the speed sensors the same As my 2002 gls 2.0? They both have the 01M but one is a FDF and the other is a FDC. Thanks in advance 😁
 

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The 99% fuel trims; make sense if the b1s1 02 sensor is malfunctioning or if there is a wiring issue. .

The freeze frame shows the system is in open loop; whether this is because of the 02 sensor isn't working or still warming up in the morning, once warmed up, sai systems/cat are warmed up it will go into closed loop.


I would look at live data and see if the voltage of the 02 sensor is fluctuating or stuck at a specific or no voltage.
 

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419F, for the coolant temps; doesn't make sense. You might us a infrared temp gun and compare coolant temps to live data, if they don't seem to be similar, the coolant temp sensor maybe bad (a common issue).

What scan tool are you using; we have seen some of the Chinese knockoffs give inaccurate or erroneous garbled trouble codes or data.
 

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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Discussion Starter #11
I've never seen it give weird information like that it has always seemed pretty accurate to my knowledge.. I was just wondering what could throw everything off like that. I did pull the dash out today n found some kind of animal has made a home right on top of my TCM.
 

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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Discussion Starter #14
It got dark and I don't have a garage so I haven't got to really check it out yet
 

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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Discussion Starter #15
I have this weird intermittent clicking noise that I have chased down to the plug on the coolant reservoir, the one that checks your coolant level, I can actually hold that connector n feel the clicking? Any clue?
 

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Vacuum and/blow out any junk, droppings, dust or debris; probably a good time to change your cabin filter, if it has one.. You might get some Clorox bleach and dilute it with water and wipe everything down, that way you disinfect the plenum, air passages for the blower havc system and that way you breath anything nasty, from the rode ts or built up bacteria. Vacuum and/blow out any junk or debris; probably a good time ti change your cabin filter, if it has one. I do this about once a year and it improves the smell of the havc system; i use the charcoal impregnated cabin filters as well, which helps, purify the air.
 

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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Discussion Starter #18
My scan tool is an Autel auto link 319. It does read the engine and the A/T as separate modules and has data pids for both. Sorry I had to go out to the car n get it to see what the model numbers were on it.
 

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2002 VW Beetle GLS~ 2.0 Eng. code AZG ~ Automatic Trans. code FDF~
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Discussion Starter #19
Yea I noticed when I turned the AC on the first time this year the smell was horriffic. Is there a way to test the G 68 with it still in the car? I read that it should have .8 k resistance but from where to where?
 

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