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Hello all. I need major help. (This is long)My daughters 02 1.8 turbo was running fine, then, acted like it had no power. She limped it home and I replaced the fuel filter. It helped, but then, it started the issue of not wanting to start. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, spark plugs, ignition coils, air filter, changed the transmission fluid and filter, replaced the cooling sensor, found and repaired a vacuum leak and replaced the gas pedal(electronic). I have eliminated the power loss, mostly, but, it still has the starting issue and not a LOT of power. Now, here is how it acts right now; Initial start is good, put it in gear and floor the gas pedal and the car very slowly starts moving. Once it gets to 2nd gear, it takes off good and the turbo even kicks in. Max speed is 80mph. On normal acceleration, it runs decent, but if you have to floor it, it does not have the power to pass a vehicle on the road. You bring it to a stop and shut off the ignition. If you try to start it, it will NOT start. It turns over fine, it just acts like it is not getting fuel. Let is sit over an hour, and it will start after a few cranks. If anyone has ANY IDEAS what I need to do, PLEASE let me know! I am at my witts end! Pappy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Breathing??

Cat doesn't appear to be bad. Air filter is as far as I have been in the intake part. Filter is good. I will take the air intake on down and make sure it is clear. Thanks!:)
 

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Do you have a OBD scan tool that can read and display real time data?

Do you have a CEL at all?

Does the car rev fine in neutral?

Try this, not sure it will work, turn the ignition on but do not start the engine and do not push the accelerator pedal. Let the ignition stay on for at least 1 minute, then turn off the ignition and start the car and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Don't have any test equipment, but can get access to a OBD scanner. I will give the 1 minute thing a try! Right now, I'm willing to try a quarter stick of dynamite in the tailpipe!! :rolleyes: As for the rev in neutral, there is a slight hesitation in acceleration when you touch the pedal, like it is trying to wind up to get up to speed. After the initial wind-up, it revs pretty good.
 

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Whats the history on the timing belt??

Wondering if may be it has jumped a tooth and the timing belt is retarded 1 tooth??

Pretty easy check, unsnap top timing cover and line up timing mark on the crank pulley and make sure upper timing mark lines up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Timing belt...well, I bought the car used...it has 161,000miles on it...probably never replaced. I will check its position tomorrow...Oh Lordy, I hope its not the belt! I have heard that replacing the belt is NOT for the faint of heart? I'm not that bad, but, this car has already given me more headaches than I care to mention.
 

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Timing belt is not fun, but not bad once you just commit to it.

Its pretty easy to check the belt timing, all from the passenger side of the engine. You can unsnap the 2 upper cover clips and most of the cover back, its a bit tricky to get out, but you can move it so you can see the belt and the crank pulley has a marking on it.

If it is your daughters car, like mine, you want to put a belt, water pump and tensioner on it. If it fails the head has to come off. If it is off just 1 tooth at this point, you are lucky. It may not be your problem??

If you need a belt kit, Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Kit Company - Blauparts $279 as I recall for a complete kit?

But do not jump on the timing belt unless it is currently off 1 tooth. I would try to solve your current problem first.

Crank sensor might be another issue as well. Not so hard to replace.

Other possibility is cam sensor.

Crank sensor might not trigger a code, cam sensor usually triggers a code.

Exhaust constricted, converter could be clogged as well.

Exhaust back pressure gauge connector to O2 sensor bung will answer this questions pretty quickly, but there may be other signs if the exhaust is clogged??
 

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Faulty Ecu

To me this sounds a faulty ecu. I may be wrong but by your description you have done prety much everything else. I say try that next you can find them on the net used for 50 and up. It sounds like the car is in limp mode. A CEL can cause the ECU to make that so the only way to get it out is unplug the battery for about 3 mins. Or have someone clear the DTC's It would be best to find someone wth Ross tech Vag Com
 

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The car could be going into Limp mode, but the CEL/DTC does not put the ECU into limp mode and you cannot clear codes or the CEL with a 5 minute battery disconnect.

A sensor may be bad or intermittent, causing the ECU to go into limp mode and trigger the CEL. This is more likely the situation.

You do not "need" VAGCom VCDS, a generic OBDII tool that can display real time data would be useful at this point. VCDS could be helpful, but I do not think it is necessary in this case yet.
 

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CEL does put in limp mode sometimes

From experience CEL can put the car in limp mode. It usually happens with multiple misfire codes or a non functioning maf. It will also show the traction control light as well. But limp mode throws its own code. Clearing codes would help your issue. Im pretty sure. Take it to autozone they can do it for free ive heard.
 

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From experience CEL can put the car in limp mode. It usually happens with multiple misfire codes or a non functioning maf. It will also show the traction control light as well. But limp mode throws its own code. Clearing codes would help your issue. Im pretty sure. Take it to autozone they can do it for free ive heard.
CEL is a indicator there is a problem, not the cause of the problem.

Multiple misfire codes on some cars can result in the ECU shutting off one or more fuel injectors to protect the catalytic converter. Usually this is considered misfire with fuel cut off. To clear this, just shut the engine off and restart the engine.

Limp mode is usually due to a MAF or throttle control problem on many cars. There may be a specific DTC/Trouble code for limp mode. Many cars will light up the Brake/ABS/Traction control lights when in limp mode as well.

DTC/Trouble code clearing will not resolve any of the problems with the car. Matter of fact of the problem is still out of range when the code is cleared it may come back immediately. Also the ECU is programmed to automatically clear the CEL/DTC once the problem has not occurred for a specific number of start cycles.
 

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While I agree but

I agree the problem still may be there I feel the dtcs were never cleared after all the work he has done. That is point im trying to make. Look at the list of stuff he did. Chances are the DTC just need to be cleared. If another pops at that point then there is another problem.
 

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The problem the CEL/DTC is you do need to clear them so you can determine if a new code pops up. The problem is if the CEL is on, you have no idea if another code is triggered unless you have a OBD tool and continue to constantly check on DTC's.

But clearing any current DTC's/CEL will not make the car run any different. If the problem(s) have been resolved, the CEL will clear itself after a specific number of start cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, new data...

Ok all! I finally got my hands on a OBDII with live data. In the process, I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft position sensor ( helped, but did not correct ). The live data report showed me that the timing is off, and that ignition modules B, C, & D have failed. ( I replaced them all only a week ago ). But, I figure if the timing is off, then the coils aren't going to fire properly anyway. SO! I have purchased a Haynes Motor Manual to help me out also. It tells me how to change the timing belt, But I haven't found anything about adjusting the timing. Is timing adjustment even possible? I am still trying, but, having trouble finding my marks to even tell if I have jumped a tooth. So,comments, more suggestions? I really want to thank everyone for the help you have all offered too! Michael:eek:
 

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Please post up the codes; that you are getting!

Where did you buy the coil packs and what brand were they; please, post a part number if you have that info. I strongly suggest; you get the coil packs from your local Volkswagen dealer (you might ask the service department if there is a recall on your car; make sure to have your vin # handy when communicating with them), many people on here are actually continuing to have problems when they get replacement coil packs from a typical auto parts store (pep boys, autozone, o'riellys etc.). Many times; these coil packs are of asian origin and are not oem quality. The oem coil packs were made by Bremi and Hitachi; I suggest you stick with the quality coil packs that VW went with from the factory (they were known to be a fail point; the latest revisions seem to be better).

Wiring harness:

You should also; do a visual check of the wiring at the coil pack connectors. It is a known issue; that the wiring insulation will crack; the heat conditions in the engine compartment will deteriorate the wiring and this can also cause misfire problems. There are plug repair kits or a replacement wiring harness available from Volkswagen.

Here are some examples; shown from ECS Tuning:

Home Page > ECS News > MKIV 1.8T Coil Pack Options

The Haynes manual; is ok but as time goes on, you may want to upgrade to the factory service manual from Bentley. The paper manual from Bentley is ok but the eBahn software based manual is much more in depth. If you are keeping your NB for a long time; it will be worth it to get a Bentley and invest in a inexpensive VW scanner or VCDS.
 

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Ok all! I finally got my hands on a OBDII with live data. In the process, I also went ahead and replaced the camshaft position sensor ( helped, but did not correct ). The live data report showed me that the timing is off, and that ignition modules B, C, & D have failed. ( I replaced them all only a week ago ). But, I figure if the timing is off, then the coils aren't going to fire properly anyway. SO! I have purchased a Haynes Motor Manual to help me out also. It tells me how to change the timing belt, But I haven't found anything about adjusting the timing. Is timing adjustment even possible? I am still trying, but, having trouble finding my marks to even tell if I have jumped a tooth. So,comments, more suggestions? I really want to thank everyone for the help you have all offered too! Michael:eek:

Slow down here a bit. We need the specific DTC codes as well at the complete list of data from the Freeze Frames.

Before you change the timing belt, you can EASILY check the belt to see if has jumper of off a tooth.

You could also have a bad crank sensor as well?

What happens is the ECU needs inputs from both the crank and cam sensors and if for some reason these sensors are not performing well you can trigger a timing code.

So again, post the exact codes and Freeze Frame data.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Data list

Slow down here a bit. We need the specific DTC codes as well at the complete list of data from the Freeze Frames.

Before you change the timing belt, you can EASILY check the belt to see if has jumper of off a tooth.

You could also have a bad crank sensor as well?

What happens is the ECU needs inputs from both the crank and cam sensors and if for some reason these sensors are not performing well you can trigger a timing code.

So again, post the exact codes and Freeze Frame data.

I Hope this posts ok?
 

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Please post up the codes; that you are getting!

Where did you buy the coil packs and what brand were they; please, post a part number if you have that info. I strongly suggest; you get the coil packs from your local Volkswagen dealer (you might ask the service department if there is a recall on your car; make sure to have your vin # handy when communicating with them), many people on here are actually continuing to have problems when they get replacement coil packs from a typical auto parts store (pep boys, autozone, o'riellys etc.). Many times; these coil packs are of asian origin and are not oem quality. The oem coil packs were made by Bremi and Hitachi; I suggest you stick with the quality coil packs that VW went with from the factory (they were known to be a fail point; the latest revisions seem to be better).

Wiring harness:

You should also; do a visual check of the wiring at the coil pack connectors. It is a known issue; that the wiring insulation will crack; the heat conditions in the engine compartment will deteriorate and this can also cause misfire problems. There are plug repair kits or a replacement wiring harness available from Volkswagen.

Here are some examples; shown from ECS Tuning:

Home Page > ECS News > MKIV 1.8T Coil Pack Options

The Haynes manual; is ok but as time goes on, you may want to upgrade to the factory service manual from Bentley. The paper manual from Bentley is ok but the eBahn software based manual is much more in depth. If you are keeping your NB for a long time; it will be worth it to get a Bentley and invest in a inexpensive VW scanner or VCDS.
The coil packs that I purchased were from a company in California. (Ebay) AC AUTO PARTS AC-3009 SET 4 . I unfortunately don't have a local VW dealer. I am in a very rural location and yes, I was trying to save some cost, so I know, shame on me for hitting the Ebay world!
The wiring actually looks very good. I haven't found any wires anywhere that show signs of deterioration.
 

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I'm assuming; this is a similar auction to the one that you bought them at.

NEW Ignition Coil ON Plug Pack FOR Audi A4 A6 Volkswagen Passat Jetta 1 8L UF411 | eBay

The part #; comes up as: Standard Motor Products UF411 Ignition Coil; on amazon, the review isn't exactly flattering!

"Just got the set of those, price was right. Put them in the car and started having problems, eventually found out that one coil from four is defective. I guess I get what you pay for."

The look of the coils and the fact they are so cheap, doesn't bode well for your own possible problems with your car! I can only assume; at $6-$15 apiece; they must be low quality, offshore asian country of origin parts (non oem). On the ebay ad; they have a 60 day return policy, these maybe for a unused return but worth a try!

These "new" coils; may or may not be contributing to your current problems, I would scan for any misfire codes. I would recommend; you purchase a quality set of coils from a online VW dealer or a place like ECS Tuning. Once, you determine the part # for your car; (usually either bremi or hitachi); you can price shop online.

There are many places online; that are vw dealers or import parts houses, that sell quality oem parts.

One example of a vw dealer online: VW Parts | Volkswagen Parts
 
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