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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Please Help.

My daughter's beetle had an EPC/CEL with codes P0341 and P0321. It was running bad, surging, etc. I changed the cam and crankshaft position sensors (as suggested on this forum)that I got from RA. Car cranked and ran fine with no light. I waited a little while and cleaned the shop. When I went to leave, I cranked it and it wouldn't rev above 3200 rpm. I drove it and the CEL light came on again. I cleared the codes because I didn't know if the codes were pre or post sensor replacement. Drove it to work today and it ran fine with no rpm restriction. Killed it, checked the codes and got a P0341 and P0420 (I know the cat is bad, but been that way since I bought it used). Cleared the codes, cranked the car, got another rpm restriction, got another CEL with code P0341.

Could the new sensor be bad? I haven't checked the ohms on the harness yet though.

Please help. My daughter is about to head off to law school and I'd like to have her car healthy before she leaves.
 

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When I replaced my 02 sensor; the trouble code came back, which was confusing as I had cleared the trouble code. I did a hard reset; by removing the pos/neg battery cables and touch them together for 30 seconds, this reset the ecu and the trouble codes did not come back. I would try that technique and see what trouble codes come back. What brand sensors; did you buy and install? The best Oem sensors are Bosch, I would recommend buying that brand and not inferior quality aftermarket parts.

Another common issue with the 2.0L; is a dirty throttle body, which can cause all kinds of drivability problems. This is a easy fix; just clean the throttle body and align it. It may not be your problem but it is easy to do, worth a try (probably needs to be done anyway).

Try these things and see if it helps.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Beck/Arnley (spelling??) from RA. When I replaced the camshaft sensor, the EPC light came back on. So I replaced the crankshaft sensor and it didn't and ran fine, initially. Then when I drove off, it had the rpm limited, but the EPC light didn't come on. Now, if I start it, then "punch" it, it will start sputtering above 3200, then limit it. Runs perfect, but otherwise limited to 3200. At times, I can get it to run normal, but mostly it's limited. Sorry for the rambling. Just trying to give you the whole picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hope so. It was just replace ~16,000 miles ago. As was the timing belt (with kit), plugs, wires. etc.
 

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What brand fuel pump; did you buy/install? We are having a number of members here; who bought inexpensive and poor quality fuel pumps. They tend to fail and not produce, enough fuel pressure for the cars to run correctly. These tend to be aftermarket non-oem brands like Airtex, etc.; you should be buy high quality oem fuel pumps like Bosch or VDO.
The fuel pressure test; is just a way, to rule out other possible things, that could cause the hesitation problem you are describing.

Do the hard reset, clean/adapt, the throttle body and if you can, check the fuel pressure. See, if any codes come back; if they do, then you probably, need to do some more in depth testing of the sensor and wiring.

You can look up testing procedures here:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals

What kind of scan tool; do you have access to, can it read live data?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will do as much as I can that you suggested. The scanner is an Actron scanner that I borrowed. I'm not sure if it'll do live scanning.
 

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quote from you:

Today I cleaned out the throttle body, replaced the air and fuel filter. It still limited to 3200 rpm. I then pulled the camshaft cover to make sure that the timing marks lined up from when I did the camshaft position sensor. I lined up the crankshaft lines and notice the camshaft was 1 tooth off. After several tries, I got them both lined up. Cranked the car and it was spitting and sputtering like it was starving for fuel (never did that before), but I scanned it and got codes P2138, P0121, P0221, & P0341. I'm about ready to bring it to the dealer but I want to make sure there isn't a simple task I need to do to correct it. I checked the ECU connections and they all looked clean and free of corrosion.

On a side note, the last two times I drove it, it ran fine when starting after sitting for a while.


P2138, P0121, P0221, & P0341.

P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com (accelerator pedal fault!)

interesting thread here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-code-p2138-EPC-Problem-PLEASE-LOOK-NEED-HELP

16505 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16605/P0221/000545 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16725/P0341/000833 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Quite a few codes; I would clear them and see if any continue to come back, also you might try a hard reset by removing the battery cables and touching them together for 30 seconds, reinstall them. So, on the camshaft alignment issue with the chain; did you remove the cams or chain, before; then change the teeth position, to "fix" the problem? Did you do; a throttle body alignment, after cleaning the throttle body? Something is definitely wrong with so many codes; related to the throttle body, accelerator pedal and cam sensor, all at once! I wonder; if the wiring is damaged and throwing all these codes, because of a damaged wiring harness? The thread posted above; sounds interesting!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I did clear the codes and I did a hard reset. No difference. For the T-Belt, with everything still installed, I lined up the crankshaft TDC mark then checked the camshaft mark. It was off by 1 tooth. After several tries, I got the belt back on and both marks lined up correctly. No I didn't do a throttle body alignment after (I don't know how or have any special tools to do so). I agree with you about all the codes. I think one thing will remedy them all. This all started the day after I replaced her washer pump.
 

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There seems to be continual debate; as to a "real" TBA without a vw specific scan tool. However, turning the key to the on position and not starting the engine, waiting a couple of minutes (until noises cease at the throttle body)... is considered the "poor man's TBA". I have always had VCDS; to do the throttle body alignment procedure, so I cannot say if it actually does it or not but it is worth a try. ;)
 

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VCDS is the newer name of what was called VAGCOM (VW forced Ross Tech to change the name). What you linked to is a chinese copy of the genuine Ross Tech cable and software system. They either give you a pirated copy of VCDS or it may be compatible with VCDS Lite. The genuine Ross Tech VCDS is $250-$350; if you cannot afford it, you might check out some of the hand held code reader on amazon.com (under $50; e.g. VS450 or $75 and up for better scanners that can do live data and possibly some coding/features).

Ross-Tech Store: VCDS

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ords=vag+scanner&rh=i:aps,k:vag+scanner&ajr=0
 

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I don't have any experience with this tool but the reviews, live data capabilities, sound good. There are probably; some things it cannot do that VCDS, can but for the basics, plus the live data it would be better than a basic code reader. Quite a bit of capability for the price; you might also consider the obd II wireless adapters and a app for your portable device, like a phone and a tablet. I use a Wireless OBD II adapter and Dash Command, on my ipad and iphone, it works excellent (it doesn't have vw specific capabilities, however).
 
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