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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If it wasn't for todays lesson on door destruction, I would have never got the guts up to junk this car!! $300 and a good lesson learned. Thanks for all the ideas red99, but after doing the hokey pokey for a week, wrecker is on its way to relieve me of satan's ****box. Signing off, farewell and good luck in your VW travels.
 

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I'm sorry to hear. :(
 

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Me Too!

I bought this beetle in GA and the dealer tells me on the test drive that he just connected the battery. That didn't set off any red flags for me but after driving it around a couple days in GA I found out the reason he disconnected the battery in the first place; the check engine light came on! I need the money too. Someone will buy it for Christmas for their kid! Jesus will save me again! 2004 VW New Beetle Blue | Cars and Vehicles | Simi Valley CA | recycler.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Wrecker did no-show

:eek: And I dug into this car today, new ignition switch but no go. Then I got into the ecm 429 relay at the firewall and I found no wire at #86 on this relay, empty hole and i'll betcha that could be a problem. Is this a ground? #85 has a large and a small wire connected to it but 86 is empty, no connector or anything....that can't be right, fingers crossed here. 5:46 update nothing, no start, no tach movement, and I am done for awhile, out of ideas.
 

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Connector 86 should have a black wire that connects to the ignition switch. Connector 85 goes to the ECU. The relay is activated by +12 from the ignition switch and the ECU providing a ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's good news, I connected 86 to battery ground. And I just installed the new ignition switch. Where, on the ignition switch, can I hook in? Or should I look up the wiring diagram for the switch and hook into hot? I think i'm gettin' warmer :)
 

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Pin 86 should go to the ignition switch, not ground. Pin 85 is the ground which is controlled by the ECU. The ECU has the ability to turn the relay on or off by connecting pin 85 to ground or leaving it floating. Pin 86 connects to pin 15 of the ignition switch which is a solid black wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks 1:36 pm last update, no tach movement after splicing the wire, no change....and I hate this heap. How would the car start once and purr after battery replaced...with no #86 connection from the 429relay, or a coil with 2 legs corroded off, and the old cps tests out 804 ohms so it wasn't bad. This car doesn't need a mechanic, it needs a magician.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hope this path may lead me to something. This car is a BEV automatic trans which means it needs a 428 relay and not the 429 with the extra pin. Would this cause the no-start?
 

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I hope this path may lead me to something. This car is a BEV automatic trans which means it needs a 428 relay and not the 429 with the extra pin. Would this cause the no-start?
It could, depending on the pin-outs of the relays. Unfortunately, I can't find a handy reference which gives the pin-outs of those two relays, so I can't be sure.

I'd replace it with the correct relay. But, I suspect that there will be no "magic bullet" with this car.

Have you scanned it with a VAG-COM scanner yet? Getting proper codes from the computer is usually much more efficient, and less costly, than simply throwing parts at the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, the pins match the 428 layout, I have 3 wires coming from the harness, violet/white, purple and black/purple. The thinner purple wire splits off to make 4 pin connection, not 5 like the 429. Got one ordered and I agree that tossing parts at it is not a good idea. Ross vag-com is $600+ I see from their site?
 

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Yes, the pins match the 428 layout, I have 3 wires coming from the harness, violet/white, purple and black/purple. The thinner purple wire splits off to make 4 pin connection, not 5 like the 429. Got one ordered and I agree that tossing parts at it is not a good idea. Ross vag-com is $600+ I see from their site?
That sounds a bit high. On their site, for our car's VIN, in addition to the "professional" kits, the following came up as options:

VCDS License with KII-USB Unlimited VIN (VW to ~'05; Audi to ~'03) $249.00 In Stock

VCDS License with HEX-USB+CAN Unlimted VIN (All VAG) $349.00 In Stock

My understanding is that the cheaper option can only be used for "older" VW/Audi cars (see model years in parenthesis).


If the above options don't appeal to you, you could start with a far cheaper ELM327 OBD-II scanner and use it with an app on your smartphone or tablet (choose Bluetooth for Android or WiFi for iOS). They go for about $15 on Amazon or eBay. To start, you can use a free app (I use OBD Car Doctor) or spend a few more dollars to get something more popular like Torque. You won't get all of the detailed information a VAG-Com would give you, but it's a start.

I personally have an ELM327 WiFi model I use with my old iPhone 4S and it's certainly better than nothing. I can get the generic OBD-II codes, clear codes, and see some real-time data as well. So far, it's been all I need to figure out why the CEL comes on in our '05 NBC. Using a generic scanner is still a huge improvement over throwing random parts at problems that present a CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I've had a scanner from the start, vw/audi obd U-281 Memoscan. code 01314 and a seat belt code along with the defective airbag code which is on recall. Lucky for me, the parts I have tossed at it are all needed parts except for the CPS where the old one checked out fine, a couple of relays tested out fine but always good to have for spares. I'm off to the parts store to replace the defective cheapo brand coil pack I got from Amazon. Zero ohms at plug wire posts 1 & 4, 2 & 3, plenty at my harness and the pins on the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After swapping out the coil and the CPS again, the coil pack is dead from the neck up, brain dead, no resistance between the terminal tops, where the plug wires plug in, and very hard to believe it would be 2 bad coil packs. Please, what is between the connector harness at the base of the coil and the top side that is blocking out any juice to the plug wires?? My 01314 code comes from A/T, not engine or SRS or ABS as there are no codes from these 3 sources except for engine fail to link.
 

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The coil pack should measure 4000-6000 ohms between spark plug terminals 2 and 3 and the same between terminals 1 and 4. This checks the secondary side of the two coils that are part of the pack.

There should be no connection from any of these to the 4 pin connector at the base. That connector is for an ignition module that is attached to the coil, so it is not the primary side of the coils. You should have 11.5 volts minimum between pins 2 and 4 with the ignition switch on if the power to the coil is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Pin 86 should go to the ignition switch, not ground. Pin 85 is the ground which is controlled by the ECU. The ECU has the ability to turn the relay on or off by connecting pin 85 to ground or leaving it floating. Pin 86 connects to pin 15 of the ignition switch which is a solid black wire.
I think this setup I found today might have been deliberate :eek: 429 relay, pin #30 was jumped to #85 and thanks to red99 for the 86 info. I cut the jump wire from 30 and hooked in with 87a and I now have my codes from ecm engine, check engine light came on for the 1st time. 7 trouble codes, scariest one being 18011, hoping low battery and countless jump starts,19497, coolant temp sensor but says resistor short to ecm, and the cat 16804.Update: charged battery and cleared codes, I get 17071 and 16502 but no start yet. Checking my 429 for better ground and the CTS today.
 
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