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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Thanks in advance for your expertise.
We have had a New Beetle from new, 2005, 1.6 Convertible.
Never caused us any issues at all, apart from wear and tear.

We have now got a code P01010 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance, which I can clear but keeps coming back as the orange Warning triangle on the dash (traction control light)

We have changed the MAF, there are no air leaks between the MAF and the throttle mechanism/engine, the wiring looks good, the air filter is new. We have changed both lambda sensors as a precaution.The ECU has been updated with the latest software as well.

I looked at a few YouTube videos on how to test if the MAF is working correctly. As I'm sure you know, this has 4 wires, which I think should be a constant voltage (5 volts in my case, should it be 12 Volts?, Earth, Signal and Signal return.

If I measure the voltage between the 2 signal wires, I believe on tick-over the signal should be around 1 volt, as you increase the engine speed, the voltage should go up to keep the hot wire hot due to more air going through the MAF.
I don't get the 1 volt at tick over and it doesn't increase as the engine speed increases.

Am, I understanding this correctly? If I'm not seeing the voltage increase what could be causing the problem? A wiring diagram would also help, but my Googling skills seem to have failed me.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Its quite frankly doing my head in!!
 

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Is the trouble code; "P0101" vs your posted "P01010"?

I am not finding any info online; about your posted code but there is info, for the P0101 code:


16485/P0101/000257 - Ross-Tech Wiki

When checking trouble codes on a Volkswagen; always use the Ross Tech Wiki, which gives the definition of the trouble codes and VW specific info. This can be helpful, compared to generic OBD II trouble code definitions, found online and you are more informed, giving you a head start in your troubleshooting process. Knowledge is power! :)

https://www.google.com/search?q=ros...i57j69i60l3.5332j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

There are ways to test your maf; as you have noted with a multimeter but I find using a scan tool with "live data" is a better was to do this.

Going through you testing procedure; using the multimeter, here is a page that might be helpful:

This shows a 1.8T engine in a Passat with a 4 wire type MAF:

Part 1 -Testing the VW Passat (98-99) Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

What we have found on this site; is many people buy a new maf, only to find, it doesn't solve their problem. In these situations, viewing live data and the actual ecu data readings, while the engine is running, can be a much clearer way to compare the new and old maf readings.

The "new" maf; can be a non oem high quality maf and actually be defective or just cannot work correctly out of the box. Here in the USA; the oem VW supplied maf's from the factory are made by BOSCH. Buying a genuine Bosch part; from a reputable parts supplier, should guarantee you are getting the correct part, that will work correctly and not fail. There are alot of less expensive maf's for sale and many are tempted to buy these, then they do not perform as they should, and your are back to square one. For example, I found a "Bosch" maf on ebay and when I installed it, my car ran horrible and eventually, after a test drive, wouldn't even start. After testing it, using live data; it had incorrect data ranges and when I installed my original back in, the car ran fine again.

Again, comparing the new and old sensor; is a easy way, to confirm, whether the maf is a issue.

Other problems we have seen; is the actual plug and wiring, going to the maf itself. Most of our New Beetle's are getting up there in age; the plastic plug can crack, terminal wires get loose in the plug or have intermittent connection issues with the terminal wire ends. As noted before; viewing live data of the MAF, while the engine is running and then "wiggling" the plug/wiring, is a way, to see if the plug/wiring is compromised. IF this "wiggling" causes the engine to run different and the MAF readings to jump around, erratically, while doing this, would confirm a connection issue. At that point; this troubleshooting technique, would confirm if the wiring, plug or contacts at the sensor are damaged. For example, on my MAF; the plug itself, had cracked and the small red insert, had fallen apart and this made the terminal contacts loose. I purchased a new plug, removed the terminal ends and replaced the plug, problem solved.

So, as you can see; there are a number of possibilities. Here are a number of questions:

1. what brand and part number, was the maf you purchased?

2. did you test the old/new maf; were the readings different or the same?

3. have you inspected and tried a "wiggle" test of the plug/wiring to the maf itself?

4. what brand 02 sensor did you replace them with and do they seem to be working as they should?

5. are there currently any other trouble codes; aside from the "P01010" you are getting? Can you confirm; you are giving us the right trouble code? What scan tool are you using and does it read live data?

Anyway, let us know some more info and we can go from there. Thanks! :)

PS: Keep in mind; the USA market, NEVER had the 1.6L engine and so, our service manual info, that we would normally share with you, is not going to cover this engine. I would recommend, that you invest in a Bentley or the cheaper Haynes UK spec service manual. The Haynes UK New Beetle service manual; covers the 1.6L engine and this would be a great resource for you and it does not cost very much.

VW Beetle Petrol & Diesel (Apr 99 - 07)
Haynes Repair Manual (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals)
Paperback – 13 May 2013
ISBN-10: 0857336541
ISBN-13: 978-0857336545

Here is a link; to amazon uk:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VW-Beetle-Petrol-Diesel-Apr/dp/0857336541
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Billymade,
Sorry, I got over enthusiastic and added an extra 0! You are correct, the one and only code is P0101.

There isn’t a loss of power as suggested on the Ross-Tech page, but it does have erratic idle when warm. Also another symptom is hesitation or a time-lag in engine response that is felt after the accelerator pedal is depressed.

1. what brand and part number, was the maf you purchased? - The local garage changed this, the only marking I can see are pbt-gf40 so I don't think it’s a OEM
2. did you test the old/new maf; were the readings different or the same? - Again no, the local garage changed it so I didn't get a chance to check
3. have you inspected and tried a "wiggle" test of the plug/wiring to the maf itself? - I've used a multimeter on the connector and all looks good, but I'll take another look
4. what brand 02 sensor did you replace them with and do they seem to be working as they should? - Again the garage changed so no idea
5. are there currently any other trouble codes; aside from the "P01010" you are getting? Can you confirm; you are giving us the right trouble code? What scan tool are you using and does it read live data? Initially there were 2 codes, P0172 – System too Rich Bank and P0101. I cleared them and now only P0101 comes back. This code only seems to appear once the engine is warm, after running the car in the garage for 5 mins in the garage or a very short run. The scan tool I have doesn't give me live data, hence why testing with a multimeter. I’ll redo the Multimeter test again. It was the 4 wire Passat video I was using to test mine with.

Can you confirm my thinking is correct on how to test?
I should have 5 V constant, Ground, Second Ground supplied from the ECU and a MAF signal. If I measure between the MAF signal wire and the ECU ground I should see increase of voltage as I increase the engine speed.
Will order a Haynes manual if all else fails!!
Many thanks again
 

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I have not used a multimeter to test a maf but looking over the pages showing the testing procedures, it would seem, voltage should rise with increase air flow. I use a scan tool with live data capability to read maf airflow info; i have the ross tech vcds and a cheap elm 327 obd ii wireless dongle to use with my phone and a app. A elm 327 is a inexpensive option; you can get these from places like amazon and ebay for less than $20 USD. The bluetooth version is for android devices and wifi versions for ios/apple devices.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update

So, I’ve tested with a multimeter again, this time inserting a pin in the back of the connector to get a good contact. I can confirm that I have a constant 5V, Constant Ground, Ground from the ECU which is only there when the ignition is switched on, and a MAF signal. The MAF signal at idle is around 1 volt, when I increase the engine speed the voltage increases smoothly and decreases smoothly when the engine speed decreases.

I have noticed that when the engine is cold and the blue cold engine light is on, the orange warning light stays off, but when the blue light goes off and there is a noticeable click/hiss within the engine somewhere, a few seconds later the orange warning light comes on.

I believe the MAF is working correctly, but have no idea what else could be causing this.
Many thanks
 

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When you were reading the maf signal with the multimeter; did you try wiggling the maf plug/wires? As long as you maintain a good connection with your probe; this could be a way to determine if there is a bad plug or connectivity issue with the maf. Again, i think a scan tool with live data capability; would be a superior way of testing the maf, as you would be monitoring what the ecu "sees" and not have ti worry about keeping your multimeter back probed on the right terminal. Another thing to keep on mind; is many cheaper aftermarket mafs "work" per se but not to the levels they need to, for the engine to run correctly. So, for example at idle they might be in a "normal" range but cannot read accurately at "WOT" or wide open throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update

Hi,
So it seems it is an OEM MAF. I took everything apart again, I replaced the pipe between the MAF and the engine/throttle assembly and the pipe that went to the rocker cover as it was perished and cracked (not sure if I cracked it or it was cracked). I also changed the oil breather pipe from the rocker cover as this too had perished. I cleaned out all pipes, checked all electrical contacts I could find and reset the code. I've now been 30 miles and the light has stayed off. Who knows what the problem was, but thanks for your help in trying to fix the issue.
 

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That is good news; leaks in the intake, various hoses and pcv system; can definitely affect how the car runs and cause fuel trim issues .let us know, if you end up having anymore problems; going forward. Good job on the repairs! Thanks! :)
 

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Hi. Have also had a UK 2005 spec 1.6 cabrio from new.
For the past few years it regularly throws the same error at random points and illuminates the dash light. After a few re-starts & X miles it goes away again.
Sensors were tested OK & I could only put it down to an intermittent disconnection in the wiring. Cleaning the various connectors has not prevented the issue coming back.
Next time it occurs I'll check the hoses you've mentioned as it could well be those contributing to the 'fault'.
Thanks for the idea.
 

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The warning light has come back on again but this time with more error codes as shown below.
Have checked the hoses and discovered that what VW call an 'oil breather hose' had perished through at the concertina section. A few more of the rings just broke off in my hand as I inspected it. Seems this is a very common fault.
The pipe comes after the MAF and leads to the crankcase at the front of the engine.
Have taped it back together as a very temporary fix and will check part number at main dealers tomorrow. Seems to be 06A103217G.

=================================================

(VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Sunday, 20 May 2018, 17:53:47.
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 033 DP
Component and/or Version: SIMOS33 1.6l 2V 00HS5793
Software Coding: 00031
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 709353C323BB
Additional Info: WVWZZZ1YZ5M353268 VWZ5Z0DN098052
5 Faults Found:
16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Implausible Signal
P0101 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16556 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0172 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16514 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0130 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Rich
P0172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17743 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1335 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
 

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Based upon your trouble codes; it looks like codes associated with with a maf failure and/or vacuum leaks. You know you have leaks; so, fix thise first.

The other type of code; seems related to your (bank 1 sensor 1) 02 sensor has failed. This is the 02 sensor; before the catalayic converter. You could check live data and see if there is any activity and go theough the service manual testing procedures with a mulimeter. If you end up replacing it; get a high quality oem Bosch part.

I would repair the vacuum leaks; clear the codes and then see if they come back. Using live data; you could also check the maf readings as you wiggle the maf electrical connector and see if that affects the readings, how rhe car runs.

Let is know; the results of yiur vacuum leak repairs and results of yiur testing. We can go from there. Thanks! :)
 

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Pipe replaced. Not the 5 minute job I'd expected. It's getting very obvious that vehicles these days are not designed with easy maintenance in mind.
I remember the 'good ole days' when you could keep things running with some baling wire & a hammer.

Codes wiped and I'll see what happens. The O2 sensor has been tested before and is working fine. I know the code relating to that is down to a break in the wiring somewhere. It'll throw the code every now and again because it loses communication for a split second. Dash light clears itself after a couple of restarts.
I've given up being bothered by this one. :rolleyes:
 

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I would seriously consider repairing your 02 sensor issue; the pre cat 02 sensor, plays a major role, in the ability of the ecu to keep the car in proper tune. A bad or intermittently working 02 sensor; will cause the car to run rich, your fuel trims will be off and your gas milage will be bad. While, many view a check engine light; as just a occasional nuisance, it is actually costing you money in the long run, could cause other parts to fail, like the catalytic converter and being in the UK, you will not pass your upcoming MOT.

Please check your PM's; thanks!
 
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