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So, have you view the iat or maf readings? What brand and part# is on your current maf? Is it marked as a Hitachi or Bosch; i'm under the impression, Hitachi might be the oem for the 1.6L?

I would confirm the maf is bad and check the wiring; before replacing it, throwing new parts at the problem. We see, bad terminal ends and damaged maf plus allot; causing intermittent data drop out issues and short to ground trouble codes.

I believe the default -40 temp reading; is a classic failure mode, vw programmed default reading, if the sensor or wiring is a problem. I seem to recall, the ambient temp sensor; will read the same if there is a issue with it.

I don't know abiut the Haynes uk spec manual but the erwin/factory vw manual; typically has wiring and sensor testing procedures; resistance testa you can do with a multimeter and rhen, confirm by viewing live data, then, try a "wiggle test", by moving the wires, plug, to the maf, as you observe live data, see if the readings drop in and out, indicating loose terminals or a damaged plug. Both can be replaced by normally special order the part at your local vw dealer parts desk or just splice a plu/pigtail, from ebay or amazon but they tend to be cheaper Chinese sourced parts. i prefer oem vw for these types if parts but cost more. We can discuss other sources forthese parts; if the need arises.

This uk based supplier; sells allot of possibly oem sourced vw wiring harness repair parts; at affordable prices (te connectivity/amp/tyco, FEP, being oem suppliers for vw):


Did you tell us what brand and model scan tool, you are using?


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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I'll have a play later today if it dries up. the scan tool is a free app and im using a Bluetooth connector...It works haha indeed the manual goes over the testing :)
 

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I use a cheap elm327 wifi version with my iphone and apps; dash command, obdfusion and then, I bring out the heavy firepower, vcds by ross tech, when really going in deep. A great tool, to troubleshoot and diagnose things. vcds, is a vw factory level scanner with advanced capabilities; (similar to what the vw techs use at the vw dealers).



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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Yeah still smoking! blue light goes off now haha, My valve tool kit came yesterday, so I will be tackling it soon, I've got a new head gasket and crush bolts so i might as well put it on right... save me faffing with compressed air to do the valve seals.
 

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Valve tool kit; tell us more?!?

I would definitely, have the head professionally checked out at a machine shop; probably need to be skimmed, at a a bare minimum. Here in the states, sometimes; a advance exchanged rebuild head; can be a more cost effective solution and no waiting around for the shop, to do the work. Then, you can move forward with repairs and not waiting, for the machine work, to be done.

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
il check it with a plane of glass, i am repairing on a budget here! Yeah i bought a £50 tool kit with everything id need haha. And yes my MAF is Hitachi, and has audi and VW logos on it so you are right presuming it was the OE part.

193624075_500186734729498_7649254991533377218_n.jpg
 

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You might call around to some local machine shops and see what they charge; for a full pressure test, checking for cracks, confirm that the valves seats, valves are ok, the valve guides are ok, cam, lifters are ok and check, machine for straightness of the head gasket surfaces. This may not be as expensive, as you may think; then, you could save on labor; by replacing the valve seals and lap the valve seat surfaces, yourself or just have them handle it.

You can do things on a budget and do things correctly; the key is to have the head fully evaluated and have a pro machine shop, confirm everything, is in spec, have then do specific work you cannot do and save on labor, when, you can do things yourself.

We have had some members, unfortunately, try to cut corners, by reuse heads as is; not have a machine shop do anything and after, reinstall; had problems with leakage and had remove it again and have a machine shop rebuild the head, anyway.

This increased the cost of overall repairs, definitely was not the way to go; as parts had to be purchased twice (one time use stretch bolts, gaskets, sealant, etc); so, the initial "savings", actually, ended up, costing more in the long run.

Look at it this way; you are saving a ton of money; as you are doing all the labor, on removal, installation of all new parts and spend your, hard earned money, on parts and professional services for the head, that will guarantee it is in spec and ensure, your overall repair, is successful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
You raise a good point, That being said I have just done a compression test, a proper one! oooooh aaaaah.
So without Oil (ALL PSI)
1. 187
2..195
3. 187
4. 185

With Oil
1. 190 (Up 3psi)
2. 205 (up 10psi)
3. 195 (up 7psi)
4. 200 ( up 15psi)

I also dipped a screwdriver into the spark plug holes to see if i could find oil, Cylinder 1-3 are dry but cylinder 4 defiantly has oil resting onto of the piston, so I'd wager that's the problematic one.
 

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Solid work, I guess; once you get the head off and tested, you can confirm its health and check out the piston rings, walls, for issues, possible need for work? The increase, in cylinder compression; could indicate, piston rings/cylinders; being a possible issue.

A cylinder leak down tester; could help, narrow down the possible causes of the smoking issue before, you tear things down and remove the head, etc.

Note: a leak down test; does, require the use of shop compressed air.

More testing, visual inspections and professional, cylinder head evaluation is needed, to get a solid, documented, diagnosis; to finally, nail down the cause, of the smoking issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Considering how consistent and similar the readings are. And how little they improved with oil. Im reasonably sure my rings are fine. Il visually inspect the bores too mind.
 

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Yes, rings seems to be one of the top issues brought up about that particular engine; on the uk based sites i have been on. They referenced something to the affect of the vw factory piston rings; being defective or inferior; having problems with oil consumption? These are UK-based people that I hear talk about this engine, I personally have had no contact or experience with it but just thought I would tell you about what I have heard people discuss about it.

(Smoking/oil consumption):

(Valve seal missing)

(Oil consumption; breather system clogged and overhaul no more issues?):

Because, of others referencing the same issue; when you have it torn down, check everything that could contribute to the smoke and oil consumption issues.

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Yeah, I made point to increase the oil weight to 10w40, same as i use in mu Motorcycles, I spent 8 hours in A&E cus is decided to try and rip my tongue off! Ill have to phone the machinist soon see if they can check my head for straightness..
 

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Adding heavier weight oil; is treating the "symptom"; rather then, the primary problem. Which it sounds like, could be a number of possible issues; discussed in the discussion group i linked to.


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