[stallion]

Hello everyone!
I am new to the forum. The window buttons are not working (everything else works)on by bug, and after doing some research on the forum, it seems like that it might be an issue with a short or an open on the wiring harness. I would like to check continuity but don't have the right diagrams, what I found says that the window switch connector is a 5-pin connector, but my bug only has 4 cables going into the connector. Any help or if someone can share the diagram, it would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Stallion

 

[billymade]

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...ir/window_regulator_switches_through_05.2008/

https://workshop-manuals.com/volksw...iagrams/diagram_information_and_instructions/

 

[billymade]

You might pull the door panel off; look at the color coding of the wires and then match up the wires that way.

Here is a door disassembly diy:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...le/109049-window-regualtro-door-lock-diy.html

The most common failure; is the flexing portion of the harness., that goes from the body to the door, which is enclosed in a ribbed rubber sheath. These wires; flex, everytime the door opens and eventually break. You can push the rubber sheath aside and inspect the wires for damage. Many have repaired these with soldering/heatshrink tubing or use solderless crimp style adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, like the 3M Scotchlock type.

 

[stallion]

Thanks billymade! appreciate the quick help. I'll update once I check the wiring.

 

[stallion]

I was able to repair the broken cable, what's surprising is that the 'Hot all the Time' 30 Amp line was the one broke off, which is the thickest in the bunch. I used a multimeter and a saftey pin to quickly isolate the fault without removing the entire harness. Thanks again!

 

[billymade]

Cool, glad you got it fixed. Was the broken wire; at the flex point with the ribber boot or somewhere else? This type of info; can help others who have a smilar problem in the future. Thanks.

 

[stallion]

Yes, the wire was broken inside the boot, it was a clear snap cut. The quality of the wire isn't great and I had a hard time getting it to take solder. Attached, you will find the pictures of the harness on my bug, the one at the bottom powers the window, the Orange/White cable on the 2nd picture was the culprit.

 

[billymade]

Thanks for the photos; that seems to be the most common harness areas, that end up breaking, since they flex so much. Good job; on the repairs!

 

[VWRusty]

Good job on the repair!

A few years ago I was having a similar problem with wires not taking solder as easily as I would like. I was concerned that I would damage the insulation because I was heating the wire so much.

A friend suggested that I smear a little solder flux on the joint before I started heating it. I could not believe the difference. Now I do it for every joint I solder.