[BrandonLee3]

Good evening everyone,

I own a 2013.5 VW Beetle (VIN lists it as R-Line) with the 2.0 TSI motor (EA888). This morning I went to drive the car to town and it would not start. Whenever I push the start button it simply clicks at a rapid pace and the dash lights illuminate. My first thought was that the battery had crapped out, so I put it on my Noco maintainer and let it charge nearly all day. When it showed as charged I took it off and tried to start the car, but it did the exact same thing. Does anyone have any idea what is possibly going on here? My nearest VW dealership is about 45 mins away so it's stuck in my driveway until I can either get it to turn over and get it to a shop, or have it towed. Any help or ideas you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

 

[BrandonLee3]

On my 2002 new beetle 1.8T, when there is a charging or battery issue; my speedo makes a clicking noise, lights rapidly blink, probably relays click and the starter clicks, slowly moves or doesn't move at all. In those cases, my battery was dying and/or I had a alternator failing or both!

We have had some members with the A5 Beetle (2012-2019); that had a partial fuse block, that is related to the starter go bad, get fried and cause a no starting issue. This was typically, associated with a trouble code; indicating, a electrical fuse issue with short to ground type errors to various components.

I would defintiely, confirm with a multimeter; what your charged voltage with your battery is. If it is suspect, low voltage and things are not working as it should, you might pull the battery and go to a local auto parts store, have them do a test on it, to confirm, it is good or not. If bad, replace it and reinstall on your Beetle. Then, try again, if everything starts fine, then; you might take it back to the auto parts store, have the whole charging system tested with the car running, that way you can rule out any charging issues. They can, also scan for trouble codes; as well or you can rent a scan tool, from most auto parts stores, for free.

If you have a scan tool; you might scan for codes and see, if any come up, that might be a clue as to the problem.

Try some testing, check your battery, charging system and scan for codes. Report back your results and we can go from there. Thanks.

Thank you so much for the response and tips my friend. I had a really old multimeter so I ran out this morning to our local Harbor Freight and bought an Ames meter for right at $40. Came back home, checked the voltage of the battery. It came back at 11.23v so that was a definite indicator of a bad battery. What was perplexing is that I charged it to full capacity and tried to start the car and it just didn't want to start. After I checked battery voltage this morning, I hooked up to my Silverado and jumped it. The car started right up. I ran down to our Interstate batteries shop and got an MTX-47/H5 for it. I decided to upgrade to an AGM battery due to the longer warranty as well as the reliability (this is my wife's car and I don't want any issues for a while). I was worried the car might have an Immobilizer or battery module that would need resetting with a scan tool but thankfully it didn't. Again, thanks for the advice and help! I'll definitely save it for future use!

 

[BrandonLee3]

Cool, glad you found the problem, it was just a battery replacement and you are back on the road!

If you have a chance; run by a auto parts store, have them test the whole charging system and check for any trouble codes. May not be needed but always worth; having the whole charging system check and confirm everything is in spec.


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Thanks man I'll have to swing by Advance or O'Reilly and see if they'll do that. This car has been a bit of an interesting one. We got it in 2014 with 5k miles on it. Four years and 50k miles later and it started running rough. Turns out the timing chain tensioner had a recall on it. Took it to VW and they had it a week to replace the entire timing assembly. Fortunately, I took it immediately after the problem started so no damage was done to the valves. Then, the sunroof deflector came off after my sweetie decided to dump a handful of pistachio shells out of the sunroof while she was driving on a business trip. One got hung in the groove and caused it to come off. Got that fixed and all was good, until in March the car threw up several warning lights including ABS, airbag, stability control, and TPMS. Took it to VW and turns out the wheel had a sensor going out. It also had a problem with the engine (one of the valves was out of spec) so VW had it again for a week and a half to get all that work done. Even after all of that and the battery we've loved the car. It's fun to drive and it still gets a lot of looks from people. I appreciate your input man thank you!

 

[BrandonLee3]

Interesting, in hearing about the engine issues; we have been hearing about things, that go wrong with the 2.0T, timing chain tensioners, fuel pumps, leaking water pumps and carbon build up on the valves, piston rings, etc.

Many feel the A5 Beetle is a much more substantial car; in many ways more reliable and most seem to be happy with them. I still have’t driven one and all the 2.0T engine problems; has me nervous, about upgrading to a later model VW!

Thankfully, it sounds like your major engine repairs; we all done under the VW warranty! Whew!


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Yes we were blessed that most all of the engine work was done while the warranty was still in effect. When I got the car and ran the VIN to get pertinent information about the engine code and some other information I was surprised to learn it was considered an R-Line. When I did some research I noticed there was no R-Line models for 2013. The dealer had it listed as a 2013 so I was confused. I sent in a question about it to the Humble Mechanic (if you've never heard of him check him out on YouTube - he's a VW guy and former VW tech) and he actually answered it on one of his videos. Turns out it is a half-year model and has one of the early EA888 motors that were put into the R-Line cars. Apparently these had faulty tensioners and issues that were supposedly ironed out later on. I've not had any issues with any of the pumps thus far. thankfully. I run 93 octane in it and add LIQUI MOLY MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment to the oil and let it ride. Although we've talked about trading it in for something else (our VW dealership, which is also a Subaru dealer, wanted to buy it at one time and showed us lots of shiny, new Subarus and Volkswagens) but we've not been able to part with it.