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5 speed transmission swap DIY thread

32382 Views 124 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  scarabY2k


This thread is courtesy of, DSP-Digi Sport Performance in Frisco, TX, ascertained via TDIclub.com.

All info (instructions, commentary and photos are provided from the aforementioned.

The provided info is posted to aid the DIY mechanic(myself included)in converting your new beetle from an automatic transmission to a 5-speed.

The original thread on TDIclub.com is very long, filled with commentary from many TDI members. This thread eliminates all the commentary, giving you a straight guide.

A discussion thread will be provided. ALL COMMENTS/POSTS OUTSIDE THE ORIGINAL POSTER WILL BE DELETED. This is to provide the reader for a clear DIY guide, less commentary and fluff.

The DSP provided wiki "white paper" to the following DIY can be found by CLICKING HERE
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Supplies Needed: Taken directly from the "White Paper"

Flywheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate, Throwout bearing, we recommend a quality balanced flywheel
5 speed dust shield for the engine DO NOT REUSE THE AUTOMATIC SHIELD
5 speed transmission (EBJ, EGR codes)check your engine for proper manual trans. code
New axle nuts, seals, and bolts
Clutch pedal, plus both brackets, both switches
Dieselgeek TTX Short Shifter or Sigma 5 Short Shifter
5 speed power steering line and G 000 002 fluid (optional)
Stick shift box and cables and ends
Coolant Hose Coupler
"53" relay
Electrical Butt Connectors/heat shrink
Gaffers tape, chaffe tape, harness tape, DO NOT use general electrical tape
G12 Coolant
PB Blaster

Common Part Numbers:

Small Clip on Master cylinder - 7M0 721 431
O ring for master cylinder - 02F 141 143 A
350mm Hose to Hydraulic Tank - 857 721 453
Clutch pedal firewall gasket - 1j1 721 410
3 M8 Nuts that hold clutch pedal in N - 902 264 03
Transmission dust cover plate (manual) 06a 103 645 m
Engine dust cover plate (manual) 06a 103 645
Axle Bolts x12 (ask the dealer)
Transmission bolts there's four of them, two different sizes (ask the dealer)
53 relay (very common in VW's... just look around)
a bunch of butt connectors


1 Axle Left 1J0 407 271 H
1 Axle Right 1J0 407 452 X
8 Bolts 893 407 237
6 Spacer plates 1J0 407 357 A
2 Locking Nuts N 905 876 02


1 EGR coded trans 02J300047M

2.0 Liters G 052726A2


1 Top Bolt Rear N 10337803
1 Top Bolt Front N 90701604
3 Oil Pan Bolt N 90870401
1 Bottom Rear Bolt N 10337803
2 Starter Bolt N 90766202

1 Shifter Assembly
1 Knob Assembly 1J0711113BB
2 Lock Washer 1J0711280B
2 Bushing for up down 1J0711067L
1 Clutch Pedal Assembly
1 Bracket 1J1721379B
1 Bracket Cruise unknown
1 Clutch Hose 1J1721465AL
1 Slave Cylinder 1J0721261H
2 Salve cyl bolts N 0103324
5 clutch pedal bolts N 90226403


Main Part 06A103645
Axle releif 068103645M
Bolt N 0102085
spring washer N 0122265


1 Bosch 02A911024DX

1 SMF Valeo G60 VR6 Kit
includes all bolts, flywheel pressure plate, cltutch, throwout bearing

1 '53' relay
8 pink crimps
Clutch Switch Cruise 1J0 927 189 E
Switch Cruise Connector 6N0 972 704 D
Clutch Switch Starter 1J0 927 189 C
Switch Start Connector 1J0 972 702
Reverse switch 02K 945 415 C
Rev switch connector 1J0 973 702

1 modified bracket
1 short shifter

Tools Needed

Hose clamp pliars
Electrical crimp tool
Heat gun
Engine support beam
Transmission Jack
T20 Torx driver/bit
T25 Torx driver/bit
T30 Torx driver/bit
M10 Triplesquare bit
M8 Triplesquare bit
Misc 1/4" and 3/8" extensions
10mm 1/4", 3/8" Deep Socket
13mm 3/8" Deep Socket
15mm 3/8" Socket
16mm 3/8", 1/2" Deep Socket
18mm 3/8", 1/2" Deep Socket
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Collection of parts:

Here's what I got for my clutch
G60 VR6 Flywheel Non-lightened for best gas mileage on the highway, besides, I don't race autocross in my golf.
Stock G60 clutch (should hold about 250lb ft of torque)
Stock G60 Pressure Plate
Misc Bolts stuff
Trans Mount Bolts (they are stretch bolts, marked with an X)
Axle Bolts for a Manual transmission

If you want something that will hold more torque think about a dual diaphragm clutch like the one that BleachedBora sells at Bora Parts Inc.

Here's what I paid for everything
$1200 for anything I wanted from the TDI I ripped everything out of, with the exception of the motor, and interior. They didn't let me take the PCM (ECU, computer, whatever we call it) however you will just need to go into engine--> coding --> change the number from 2 to 1 leaving the leading 0's intact (see Ross-Tech: Home for the exact information).

$400 for the G60 clutch and misc bolts... you can probably just use the clutch that came with the other TDI, I would personally use a new one Bora Parts Inc. www.tdiparts.com VW skid plates, TDI timing belt kits, short shift kits are all good places to look for parts.

$300 for the short shifter from VW skid plates, TDI timing belt kits, short shift kits which is needed for clearing the stock power steering line. if you decide not to use the automatic version of the power steering line, this is not covered (yet) in this document.

There is tax, shipping, misc other things like fluids, bolts, and other misc things that go into this type of thing (think about $100-$200). There will be some modification to the wiring harness, so if you are not ready to solder or crimp something, then you should probably look into trading your Auto TDI for a Manual TDI.

That's $2100 for the swap, you can add about $1000-1200 in labor if someone is doing this for you (I charge $1200 + parts to do this, and it takes a "three day weekend")Photos of Stuff/parts:

DIS-ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE-Taken directly from "the white paper"

Jack car: Car will have to be jacked with clearance for the transmission to clear the bumper.
Remove Belly Pan
Remove Engine Cover
Remove Air Box
Remove Battery
Remove Battery Tray
Remove Starter
Remove Axles
Loosen all three 15mm bolts on the torque converter (rotate engine for access)
Remove Transmission

Remove Flexplate and Tins
Remove Downpipe
Remove Heatsheild
Remove Transmission Shift lever
Remove Ashtray
Remove Knee plate
Remove 175 relay
Loosen Relay panel
Remove Console
Remove Shifter
Remove wipers
Remove Rain Tray cover
Remove TCU


As you can see there is plenty of room for the clutch pedal, and you don't need to have the shortened brake pedal like in the MKIII cars

The photo of the grommet where the clutch pedal hydraulic lines shows that at least with my car, it should be relatively easy for everything to get done.

This is where the master brake cylinder will need to be cut on the reservoir to connect the clutch. On my car, it's just nip, and connect.

Step 1: I removed the air box, and placed a paper towel into the turbo inlet hose. A tip on removing the air box is to take the MAF Connector, vaccum hose, then remove the top of the air box. there are two (10mm wrench) bolts holding the bottom of the air box on the chassis, you can get at them with an extension. then you should be able to see the transmission much better.

Step 2: Remove the Battery, and battery tray.
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Step 3: Hang clutch pedal
3a: Unscrew the two screws the carpet hold down behind the pedals, remove the carpet holddown

3b: remove the firewall material from the firewall by pulling from the top, and pulling it down and out.

remove the grommet from the firewall.

It should look like this after you are done,

Photo of the (mostly) installed clutch pedal from the firewall.


There are three nuts on the studs, you will need a 8" extension and a deep socket to get the one on the top, I greased the top nut so it wouldn't slip out of the socket. This took about an hour to get the pedal installed, partially because I was trying to find my 8" extension.

Note that you want to remove the hydraulic line from the pedal assembly, there is a metal clip that makes it easy.

Everything went really smooth for me, there are metal standoffs (anti-crush washers) on the hydraulic assembly which if you remove them before you put the clutch in, it will go in much easier. then just put the washers back in, tighten, and you're done.

Step 4: Drain the transmission fluid as much as you can. There is a 6mm allen "dipstick" plug, then remove the "dipstick" with the 6mm allen from the pan of the transmission. let it drain, then stick the dipstick back in, and then the plug. Recylce old fluid whereever possible.

Once these are done, out with the transmission, linkage, PRNDL lever... and in with the new stick shift.
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Step 5a: remove the lever by pushing down the lever shaft sleeve with a screwdriver, then push the button and pry the sleeve and the shift lever should come up. Then pry the metal trim off, it has four tabs. remove the four torx screws and then lift out the surrounding trim (the large one with the power outlet, and change drawer), remove the connectors for the lamp and the power outlet. pry off the PRNDL display and get a #2 or lerger phillips screwdriver and remove the housing. pry out the shift lock release (like a bicycle brake cable connector), and remove the two connectors. Unplug the transmission selector cable from the transmission by prying carefully.

Step 5b: Remove (partially) the exhaust: The Exhaust will have a coupler, it has two 18mm nuts, I didn't need to use a breaker bar to break it loose. You will need to unbolt the rear hangar mount for the muffler: this uses two 13mm bolts. next you will have to unbolt the collector on the turbo downpipe, this has three 13mm nuts. pull the collector off (it has a flex pipe attatched, so this is easy). Then you will need to remove the hangar mount directly aft of the turbo. this uses two 13mm bolts, but I just used a wrench to get them off as I didn't see any way of getting a rachet in there. After this is loose you should be able to slide the exhaust off the coupler, and the exhaust will hang down a bit.

Step 5c: Remove the front most heat sheild. Where you just removed the exhaust, you will find a flimsy heat sheild. you just pry off the nuts (or unscrew them with a screwdriver and your fingers) being careful not to break them. there are three tabs holding them in, which you can just carefully bend out of place. remove the heat sheild after these four nuts are removed by pulling the heatsheild towards the front of the car. you will be able to work with an 8" extension and a 13mm socket to remove the remaining two bolts on the automatic lever. Just remove the shift box. very easy. took me about 30 minutes to do this step... might take about an hour if you have a problem with the exhaust

Step 5d: You just install the shifter box (the stick) you got from the junkyard by putting the cables on top of the transmission (they don't connect at this time) and put the box up into the hole. Loosely bolt up the bottom with the two bolts, then tighten the the top all the way with the two nuts. go back under and finish tightening the bottom bolts. It should look something like this:

Step 5e: Put the heat sheild back. I used a 13mm deep socket to help push the nuts back on, it should click a bunch of times.. The three tabs, I bent by hand, but you can use a screwdriver. (macro lens was broken for this part, and this was done without the use of a lift)

Step 5f: Put the exhaust back. Start by putting the pipes back together, then put turbo collector back on, then the muffler mount, then the mount that is aft of the turbo. pull both pipes together until they stop. Then tighten the coupler with the 18mm socket.

Step 6: You will need either a coupler (I used one) the manual transmission metal coolant line, or a length of hose to bypass the transmission "cooler" (or was that heater???). Remove the spring clip, and pull the hose off the backside being careful to move quickly to plug the leak. insert the coupler, and then do the same for the other side, spring clamp them, and you're done. It'll look something like this when you are done:

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Okay, I picked up a triple square m6, m8, m10, m12 set at Pep Boys for $15.

The passengers side triple square was almost totally stripped from the dealer installing used bolts on both sides (they charged me for the new bolts, still have the receipt on the shipping, and the bolts). The spindle was not tapped, or helicoiled like what was charged, just tap chased (didn't need anything. But that is off topic...

Sorry, no photos... no macro lens on my current digital camera.

I removed the axles, I used a M8 and a M12, unusual... It helps if you have someone counter-spin the wheels for you. used a little bit of pressure (okay, I used a breaker bar, only after the craftsman ratchet broke... LOL).
After the axles are loose, you just need to place them to the side, I used a couple of plastic bags tied onto the ends of the axles to keep the grease from getting tainted. Cleanliness is paramount here.

While you are under there, have someone move the camshaft clockwise (I used my mother-in-law and the metalnerd camshaft thingie). Then you get to look on the engine side of the transmission, above where the axle came out. slowly spin, holding a flashlight, look for a nut (there are three of them, mine were 15mm and 16mm... obviously a job from the dealer, LOL).

While you are under there, you need to remove the transmission bolts on the bottom of the transmssion, then the lower mount (pendulum mounts have a stabilization). Then the top starter bolts (don't forget to remove the electical leads!).

Unfortunately that's all I have for tonight... there should only be the top pendulum mount, and two transmission bolts on the engine left... so DON'T LOOSEN ANYTHING ELSE!!!

Tomorrow night kiddies, time for the modified engine jack, since mine needs to be bled for some reason... I'm thinking of a sissor jack, or just going out and buying a new jack from wally-world ($14.95).

Originally Posted by Fortuna Wolf
I think a scissor jack would be safest, and they tend to have semi secure "carriages"
Why is it necessary to lift the engine? I thought that you just needed a transmission jack.
You have to support the engine, there will only be one mount holding the engine in, and that is on the timing belt side.


Finally got my Sachs clutch, and Corrado Flywheel from MJM, I opted for the lightened flywheel, unlike what I said earlier. I'll let you guys know how it works.

Here's the flywheel.

The Sachs clutch number is 3000 384 001, it came with a pressure plate, clutch, and throwout bearing.
The MJM came with new bolts for the flywheel, and pressure plate.

Special thanks to DHL for shipping it and it actually arriving for once. even if it were a day late, and they didn't knock...
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Back to the decription of what to do next...

Remove the intercooler tubing between the turbo and the intecooler, including the thing that is bolted on the chassis...

Unbolt the exhaust from the turbo and set aside.

Move the axels off of the spindles.

Put a jack under the engine. and a large box under the transmission.

Unbolt the two stretch bolts from the top of the transmission mount (the ones that hold the mount to the transmission.

Unbolt the last two bolts from the top of the transmission.

Now at this point, I dropped the engine slowly, and just kept going until the trans would clear the subframe. then pryed the puppy off onto the box (which just kinda softens the blow of the transmission falling... you can use a transmission jack if you want...).

Then you will probably need an impact wrench to remove the bolts on the "flywheel", which is just three thin peices of metal. remove the "flywheel" and the tin from the engine.

Install the manual transmission tin. The flywheel (I impacted with an electric impact wrench), the clutch (I hope you have an alignment tool, and then the pressure plate, which uses a 9mm 12 point socket.

Now the fun part... installing the transmission... unfortunately, I haven't gotten mine in just yet... it's a pain in the butt. I'll update this with photos and more details later.

Kindof a sidestep, I decided just today to get a RC Euro Stage 2... soo... You will still need to remove the TCU from underneith the windsheild. remove the connector by pulling on the tab towards the drivers side. then remove the connector. remove the two nuts holding the TCU bracket on the studs, lift the front of the TCU and then pull it to the front of the car, then it should pull out. I ended up removing the air filter housing for the incoming air to make this easier. After you have pulled this out, then just three screws, and put the bracket back in. you can plainly see the wiring harness, and I guess I'll just work on that tonight... unless I feel like putting the transmission in...

Reassembly-Taken directly from "the white paper"

Install Shifter
Install Clutch pedal
Modify Console
remove the four screws from the bottom of the console where the automatic shifter went
remove the plastic, and the rubber pieces from the console
Install Console
Install Ashtray
Do all wiring (see next post)
Install Heatshield
Install Tins
Install Flywheel
Install Clutch/Pressure Plate (make sure your hands are clean, especially with the throwout bearing)
Install Transmission
Install Downpipe
Install Axles
Install Slave cylinder
Install Cross brace
Install Shift cable assembly
Modify wiring to transmission area
Modify Automatic bracket for power steering line
Install raintray components
Install wipers
Check Transmission fluid level
Install Battery Tray
Install airbox
Install Battery
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Wiring instructions-taken directly from "the white paper"

Please reference your Bentley manual for actual pin-outs, and wire colors as these vary by year/model, also make sure to check for continuity on all items.

Connect Reverse lights
Cut the transmission range connector off of the wiring harness this is the connector on the back of the transmission near the ABS pump.
Use the Black/Green wire to one side of the reverse switch
Continuity check the Yellow/Blue or Grey/Red wire from the 175 relay socket to the matching color on the Transmission range switch wiring.
Cut this wire at the 175 socket
Cut the Black/Blue wire with enough wire to spare a butt connection later for the clutch cancel switch and connect side that leads into the harness to the yellow/blue or the grey/red wire in the previous steps. This is a standard butt connection that connects the reverse switch to the reverse lights. Heat shrink this connection
Connect the transmission range side of the Yellow/Blue or Grey/Red to the other side of the reverse switch. Heat shrink these connections

Connect Clutch Cancel Switch
Cut the brown wire at the 175 relay and connect it to the Grey or White clutch pedal switch (on the top bracket)
Connect the other wire from the switch to the Black/Blue wire you cut for the reverse lights in the above underlined and bold step.

Connect Cruise
Cut the Green/Black wire from the backside of the 175 socket (should be pin 5, or the one directly in the middle of the socket) and connect it to the blue or black clutch pedal switch (the bottom one)
Cut the Grey/Red (yellow/green on 2000+ vehicles, should be Pin 9)
Check for continuity on the Grey/Red or Yellow/Green wires in the TCU connector to the grey/red or yellow/green on the 175 socket
Connect the Grey/Red or Yellow/Green wire on the 175 socket to the other side of the blue or black clutch pedal switch
Remove the TCU from the car
Pull apart the TCU connector
Disconnect the ECU harness and pull apart the large connector
There will be a yellow/red wire that has continuity with pin 19 in the ECU large connector. Cut this wire at the TCU
Connect the Yellow/Red wire in the TCU to the Grey/Red or Yellow/Green wire in the TCU.
Move the wire from ECU pin 19 to pin 66 (98 and 99 beetles are pin 44 so verify the connector pin in your bentley before doing this).
Heat shrink the Butt connectors.
Wrap the unused connectors in Gaffers tape or other harness tape. (You may also cut the unused harness out of the loom).
Reassemble the relay panel
Place a 53 relay into the modified socket.


I got the reverse lights wired up: NOTE THIS IS FOR MY 1999.5 Mk4 Golf, Your mileage may vary... you should make sure you have the correct pins and test them by continuity before plugging anything in!!!!

First you will need two paperclips so you can remove a pin from the grey harness...

Since I removed the wiring harness for the transmission control unit, this made a hole in the plenum pass-through... I decided to use the wiring harness for a plug. I cut the wiring harness for the green/black (black with green stripe) and the black with red stripe from the grey connector to match the length to the reverse light wiring. I removed the pins from the reverse light wiring harness and carefully uncrimped the pins, then crimped them back on the "grey" harness...

You will need to push the pink wire hold down on the grey connector out a bit, there are two clips that prevent this from coming out.

You will need to remove the red/black wire from the grey plug and put it into the orange plug, there is only one pin (the second row from the front, in the middle connection). you will need to use the two paperclips to remove the pin. insert the paper clip tips into the plug side of the connector, and push. while pushing, you will need to gently pull on the wire. it will come out eventually with a little love. do not force it, or you will damage the pin, and then you are up a creek as to where to find the pins for this connector.

Verify that the plug works by testing continuity to the reverse positive from the 20 amp plug for the transmission control module... replace the 20A fuse with a 10A and be done with it... I was not able to fully trace down fuse 7 for the backup lights, so I just used the biggest wire I could find.

You may be able to just use the connector with some wire on the original wiring harness and just splice them together... but again your mileage may vary...

Next I get to replace my batteries in my multimeter, and figure out how to bypass the 175 relay. The clutch switch is open when it's floored, and closed when it's "in". so no help there... I'm not a big fan on putting a relay on top of another relay... especially if it has to stay on all of the time.

I put the diesel geek short shifter in, I am very pleased with the results, but unfortunately, I think I broke something other than the pin, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the pin... it's just very difficult to get from the 1-2 gate to either the 3-4 or the reverse gate... the 3-4 to 5 relay works fine... I'm going to fire it up and see if it just needs a lube job (probably not)... otherwise I get to remove the transmission again, and have it looked at... I don't remember dropping it... it didn't shift hard at the junkyard, or when I got it home... I'm not big on rebuilding my own transmissions... but a 5th gear swap may be in order if it's coming out again.
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ECU connector - clutch switch pin still ascertaining the implementation of this.

clarification for adding the clutch switch pin to the ECU connector:

(Below pic), pin is 'released' to be used again via soldering a wire on it. It's the 4th pin over from the right.

Connector ^^^^ is for a 2000 NB so dont assume it's the same pin for yours!

Wire is now soldered to the pin and the pin is 'seated' in the connector.

from page #17 - post 253
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I finally got to trace down some of the connections...

For whatever reason pin 7 I can't get continuity to ground, but I suspect it is a ground lead. Interesting that my previous idea for the reverse lights may be a little simple... but it does work reliably... I still need to hook power up to the relay to see what it does, I can't seem to find any pinouts for the transmission control unit... worst case, I stick in the manual harness and relay.

The relay seems to have a NPN transistor in there, but there doesn't seem to be a diagram for the B C and E connections, so I guess I'll just have to remember how to find base...

Anyone have a pinout for the TCU?
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Holy cow.. the logic circuit on this beast is a PITA...

I decided to declaw it...

Now I get to find that pesky desoldering iron...
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Quite interesting... Since it was a NPN transistor (actually it was four with a crapton of diodes, resistors, misc regulator junk and stuff...)... it should just need the red/yellow, red/grey, and brown wires connected to ground.

Well... I have a possible solution... I haven't tested it just yet, but I may have a solution... On the bench, it seems to work... The logic circuit is there so the reverse lights don't come on when you try to start the car, and the starter doesn't run when it's in reverse... I think... LOL

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Okay I installed the transmission. the four starter bolts will come in handy...

<<<The Automatic and Manual Axels/CVs are ***NOT*** the same>>>

Remove the axels... I will write up a little later, when I do the reverse... This will help with putting in the transmission greatly, at least do the drivers side...

I removed my pendulum mount from the transmission to facilitate quicker installation.

First get the transmission where it is aligned with the transmission, jack it up (I suppose you can use a transmission jack... I used a floor jack because of space) or use a cherry picker. Then put the starter bolt into one of the corrisponding top holes. then put one on the rear bolt hole that goes from the engine and threads into the transmission. try to get the engine and transmission together, if you are LUCKY like me, the clutch was perfectly aligned, and it will go together with almost no effort, other than clearing everything... Watch for the rear area where the differential is... and where the pendulum mount used to be... also look out for the power steering lines, and A/C lines. If you are not lucky, you will have to turn the engine a little to get the clutch aligned with the splines (you did align the clutch with the tool didn't you???)

Anyways start the bolts when it's together, and put the mount back on.

There's where I am at this time... more later


I put the mount back on, and then raised the transmission up to join it with the rest of the mount, you did remember to put new bolts in didn't you?

I then put the turbo downpipe back on, and then connected the bottom part of the pendulum mount (the torsional supporter thingie)

I connected the hydraulic lines to the slave cylinder, make sure you have the metal clip to keep the line on the cylinder. Clip the reservoir where the clutch feed line is, and work quickly to put the clutch line on, you will not need a spring clip or a screw clamp, it'll just slide on. you will need two people to bleed the brakes. first open the valve and have someone push the clutch to the floor, then close the valve, have them lift the clutch until all of the air is out of the system. repeat until all of the air is out of the system, then have them press down on the clutch pedal while you open the valve, and just open it, bleed a bit and close it quickly... that will get the last of the air out. test the clutch by pressing on it, it should <!!SHOCK!!> feel like a clutch!

Removal of the axles:
remove the wheel, the remove the nut on the axle. I used a 30mm 12 point socket to remove the nut. then I just hit the end with a mallet. worked fine. came out with three good hits (but then again mine have been in for only 450 miles). Installation is reverse of removal. BTW an impact wrench will help here.

I get to put in the new axles next... then all of the bolts then the starter, then torque, then connect everything, and wire the puppy up! Then I get to start checking everything... and figure out if I've done it right...

Well I got back at it tonight... After yet another dealer screwup...

All axles are in!!! all nuts are tight... even if a few screws are loose...

The starter from the manual transmission ***IS*** different... you can now sell the automatic one on ebay...

The wiring harness will need to be stripped, spliced, and whatnot... you will only need to use two wires for the reverse lights, but you may have to re-order the wires on the VSS harness... but more on that later... I still need to get this bad boy on the ground...

***Mental note, I still need to put in three new bolts on the lower control arm because they were stripped... after vw gets me the retainer part***

Now nappie time... zzzz ZZZZ zzzz


I pulled out all of the wiring harness for the transmission, I have the pinouts for where everything goes, which i'll post here since it's part of the howto, I am going to figure out the reverse lights and the neutral safey switch/relay thingie sometime this week, but for the most part it's all done...
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Well it finally started, drove around the parking lot a little to see how it feels... I'm loving it!!!... now to put in that pesky gaffers tape.

Do you think there are any parts or wiring harness stuff that may make the swap easier? Can the electrical stuff be simplified. It looks like you did quite a bit.

The starters look identical, but in fact they are different. everything you need for reverse lights, and to bypass the Park/Neutral Relay is on the TR connector, you don't have to connect the two wires to ground like what I did, they just need to be spliced together (cut and crimp?)

The 12v (green/black) from the TR switch should go to the reverse light switch, the other side should go to the blue/black wire on the TR Switch. Now if it's possible to make a harness (bad IP pump connector???) then that would make it very streightforward. there is not much for differences, and I never hooked up the clutch pedal.

The Axles are actually totally different in type, the manual ones are greased, and easily servicable, the auto ones are sealed at the transmission.

The mount is mostly different, I would get the whole thing just to be sure.

The hydraulic lines (don't forget the clips) Misc wires, connectors, etc...

All of the interior peices are the same, the only obvious difference is the boot and knob. You can remove this without taking apart the shifter, and it will drop right through the bottom of the car. (at least on my car) I got the whole interior console, but kept the original. since yours is the 6 speed, I would suggest the same.

So long as the 6 speed came from a TDI or other 4 cyl, you should be fine for the bellhousing, but you will notice that there are many different types, and some of the 6 speeds will have a higher RPM at cruise (the worst I found was like 3600 RPM @ 75 MPH). Swapping top gears in the 6 speed is also more difficult, but hey if you are autocrossing, then that should be fine on a short course. The diesel loves the tall gears... so I just stuck with the 5 speed... I would probably import one from a junker in europe so it would be cheaper... and have a better highway gear.

I would go inside your floorboard and make sure you have all of the things to hang the pedal from (there are three studs), and if they are not there (they are hidden under the fire retardent panel.), then you will have problems doing the swap... I haven't looked at many automatic golfs/jettas/passat/whatnots to see if they are the same or different. also it is quite obvious if your master cylinder reservour has a nipple available or not.

As for the brake pedal, all of the mk4 golfs I have seen, the automatic has the same pedal as the manual. if not, then that's yet another thing you would have to do that is not covered here...
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Beneficial pics
These pics ARE NOT from the original poster. Thsese are for reference purposes only. ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ARE LISTED ON THE WHITE PAPER (SUPPLIED LINK AND VIA THIS THREAD)

Here is a shot of the automatic transmission switch.

Left side is the manual transmission reverse switch connector, on the right is the automatic transmission switch connector. My reverse switch connector had a nice long pigtail on it, so I just wired it right in.

Here is how I spliced in the wires, just your standard strip, twist, and solder.

Here is the plenum. Notice the air filter on the passenger side underneath the windshield. The ecu is next to that, the TCU is next to that.
You really should pull your windsheild wipers off, then remove the plenum cover, then you will be able to see the transmission control unit(TCU), and the ECU better.

I tried to get an angle showing both:
REMEMBER: The TCU needs to be removed. See "white paper" wiring instructions.

Here is a shot of the TCU

Finally here is a shot of the reverse switch location on the manual transmission.
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