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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my story bought a 05 convertible with the 6spd auto/stick tranny with the transmission pan hit by something that broke half of the valve body mounts. Found a used HFZ tranny on Craiglist and installed it without changing the torque converter seal(didn't even think about it). Well she was leaking fluid so I took the tranny out again and changed the seal that I bought from VW (same numbers that was on the old seal) put her back in and again she is pouring fluid. So I said maybe the torque converter has a problem that came with the tranny. So I pulled the tranny again and pressure tested it and it held fine. I looked at the converter bushing in the oil pump and the copper had pieces missing and you could turn it by hand so I removed the one from the trashed tranny she looked almost new so I pressed her in then installed a new seal again. I looked at the torque converter and it had some damage on the shaft where the seal rides so now I am thinking got the problem solved by using the torque converter from the trashed tranny as well. Put it back in the car and F M the fluid is still pouring out.
Since you can't see behind the torque converter I am at a loss, if anyone had a similar problem and has a cure please let me know. Can the oil pump o-ring behind the tranny case be causing the leak? Again I am at a loss I measured the distance from the flex plate to the engine block and it is within tolerance (no wobble I could see when the engine was running)Does anyone have the specs on the converter shaft so I can compare it with mine? Any help would be appreciated....
 

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Man I hate to hear this story.

It is possible that the pump seal to the housing opening may be leaking??

Does it only leak when running?

Does it leak when not running?

Do you think maybe a bolt was put somewhere that is broke though the housing?

How are you filling the trans? Do you think it may be leaking out the upper fill port, which is effectively been abandoned anyway.

Check my signature below for filling info and home made tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It is possible that the pump seal to the housing opening may be leaking?? Don't know can't see behind the converter, I was hoping there was room enough for a inspection camera but no dice.

Does it only leak when running? Yes I made sure I have fluild dripping out of the pan tube before I start it then I start to top it off while it is running and then it starts to leak.

Does it leak when not running? It seems to stop but I guess there is only 3 quarts in her according to my empty bottles. I guess I can put two more quarts in and see what happens when it is not running.

Do you think maybe a bolt was put somewhere that is broke though the housing? I checked it pretty good this last time since I didn't want to pull it out again and didn't see anything

How are you filling the trans? Do you think it may be leaking out the upper fill port, which is effectively been abandoned anyway.I don't see the upper fill port but I am filling it from the bottom fill port very slowly since it can't handle a lot of fluid at a time, the leak is coming from behind the converter nothing from the exterior of the tranny. I am using the correct high $$$ fluild in it so the viscosity is correct.

I really don't think the torque converter shaft is worn but since I am going to pull the tranny again does anyone know what the diameter of the torque converter shaft should be where it rides in the seal?

I guess I could split the case change the oil pump o-ring install a new copper bushing install a another converter seal and buy a new torque converter or "Last Resort" Cut off the bad torque converter shaft, weld it to a shaft so I can mount a pulley, weld a test stand together to hold it all and run it so I can see where the fluid is coming from.

If VW wasn't so proud of there tranny and torque converter I would have put a new ones in instead of fooling with a used one. And just my luck I rolled the windows down while I was working on her and wouldn't you know it I heard something snap and it was the rear drivers window regulator plastic that holds the cable break. What a design you have to pull the car apart to get to it wish I had my 1962 Beetle back:)
 

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Wow, sorry you are having to deal with this issue and pull the trans so many times.

Bottom fill is the way to go. I would get a clean container to capture any leaking fluid then strain it through a standard paint stainer funnel from the local paint store or home center. Then reuse the fluid. No issues doing this.

As for the bottom fill, this is the way to go. You should have no issue pumping away via the bottom fill, not need to go easy, if you had no leaks this would not be a problem.

I have not had one of these trans apart from the pump end, however, it should be no different than most. There should be a flat gasket between the case and the rear of the pump and a large flat seal that goes in a groove around the pump circumference. As I recall the pump to case bolts may have special sealing washers or O-rings as well?? Make sure the pump to housing bolts are torqued properly as well. You may need to see if there are any special sealing washers or O-rings for these bolts.

Other than these 2 seals, the only other problem area would likely be pump bushing and seal. There may be in an additional inner seal for the lock up piston in the converter, however, not sure this would easily cause any external leakage?

This is assuming the leaks are behind the converter.

Have seen some cases where the converter seal spring gets dislodged when driving the seal.

Assume my test fitted the seal on the converter before installing the seal to make sure the diameter is correct??

I would hope there were not a lot of variations in these trans, but who knows?

I would likely try to fully fill the trans before you pull it again to see if you have leakage when the engine is not running. A clean drain pan may be the answer??

Good luck with this, I understand how frustrating this can be.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pulled it again

Went ahead and pulled it looks like the converter bushing that I had to press in broke loose and was spinning with the torque converter pushing on the seal. It is the split type and not the one piece that I believe is the upgrade. Still would like to find out what is the spec on the torque converter shaft to see if mine is ok or if I need to get a replacement. Will keep you posted!
 

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Test fit the bushing and the seal before you try to reassemble.

Also make sure there is not an oil passage that needs to line up with a hole in the converter bushing.

Good luck, I know how where you are close and you have to keep repeating the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Long road but I think I got it

From what I found the oil pump case where the bushing presses in was worn. I broke the tranny case apart and swap the oil pump case with the original one after I pressed a new bushing in it. Put it back together with a new seal and filled it up with fluid and put it back in the car. Started it up and NO FLOOD! AMEN! Been a long journey and learning experience:)
 

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:banana:

congrats man!! glad to hear that you got it working!!!!

-jd
 

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Glad to hear you made progress.

Can I ask where you were getting individual parts/gaskets??

Also how bad was it to crack the trans open to get to the pump?

I have never torn apart one of the FWD automatics, but I have overhauled PLENTY of the standard RWD automatic 3 & 4 speeds from the mid 80's and older.
 
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