[billymade]

Hey, check these things:

1. is there any coolant, going back into the coolant tank? There should be a stream of coolant going back into the tank and should increase, when revving the engine.
a. check the return like and see if there is any restriction, it won't "burp" the system, if it is clogged.

check out this video; to see what it should be like and testing for restrictions in the return line:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thcwatH_BpI

2. get or borrow a vacuum based cooling system filler; the vw factory manual recommends this and I have found, it is the best way to eliminate all air pockets. The fact that you have no heat and the fans aren't kicking on; is a classic indicator of air in the system (fans aren't kicking on; probably, because the coolant isn't getting to the sensor). I use a tool; from uView called the "airlift"; it uses compressed air but works excellent!

Amazon; I think has the cheapest prices for uView:

https://www.google.com/search?q=uvi...=uview+airlift&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official

 

[billymade]

First I would pull the return hose and see if there's any blockages in it; some of the engines have a plastic restrictor near the coolant tank inside the hose, the restrictor has really tiny holes and are easy to get clogged. Some people have had a problem where that hose is blocked and that way it won't let the cooling system burp.
Once you confirm; there is no clog in the hose; I would reinstall the hose. then vacuum fill the cooling system; this way you totally eliminate air in the cooling system. Then I would see if the fans come on, if you have warm air from the heater and whether or not the car will overheat; I would then again check the return hose coolant flow. If you are getting very little or no coolant flow from the return line and the car overheats; then I would go ahead and replace the water pump and timing belt. Check out the timing belt and water pump kits from blauparts.com; they have some of the best prices and bang for the buck solutions, out there.

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[billymade]

Hmm, I was mainly talking about the return hose; that goes from the cooling pressure tank (reservoir) to the next connection. I've removed a hose on a 2.0L Jetta; but maybe it is routed differently on a New Beetle. The MAIN thing; is to remove the hoses, to see if there is any restrictions in the hoses. In the video; he blows into the hose, noting if there is any bubbles going into the reservoir and if the coolant rises in the reservoir (no blockage).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thcwatH_BpI

I'm going to work on a New Beetle at the shop; later tonite, that has a 2.0L, so I can look that over. I would just follow; what he says in the video, if there doesn't seem to be any restrictions based upon what he does, I would say you are good to go. Pressure fill and then, see if it the fans work, heater works and if it overheats. Many times; a car with a water pump that is failing; will be OK during idle but if you go for a short drive, it will overheat. In that case; the waterpump is on its way out; spinning on the impeller or cracked impeller. If it does; I would pull the thermostat, check the waterpump and tear down, do a waterpump/timing belt job.

Here is a video; showing how the impellers break, spin and fail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_7De5aU4dI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbzDJqPIUrA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1S5uSgJq5w

 

[billymade]

Last night I worked on the 2003 2.0l new beetle; I took the hose off and blew into it ; the coolest level did rise in the tank and bubbled, so that would be an easy test, to make sure everything is okay and not blocked.


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