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Discussion Starter #21
OK, so i have to admit. I screwed up. Turns out the lines were backwards. Swapped them and the car started right up!.. But now i have some questions. Whats the main fuel line? The blue one? Because when i bought the used pump the fuel lines were still attached but cut off (the blue and black lines). So i went by that, Then noticed all of the pressure was on the fuel return line (the black one?) and no fuel was going to the engine. Were they actually backwards?
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BINGO! A classic and common mistake! Don't feel bad; we have all done this, at some point and were confused, as to why, our car wouldn't start! :)

Good question, on the fuel line colors; I haven't seen the color differences before. I usually, just note the "reach" of the lines and use that as a guide. I can see, however; how, that would have confused you. I guess, at this point; it isn't a issue to dwell on, you got the thing running and thats the important thing! :) Congrats, GOOD troubleshooting work and repairs!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I feel like the previous owner swapped the lines or something. Just to be safe, do you know what line should be connecting to the fuel filter?
 

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Good question, I would assume; it would the the feed/pressure line and not the return line. The return line, would not have connectors on it, to hook up to the fuel filter; so, it would just go down the length of the vehicle, to the fuel rail.

If you had them mixed up; I don't believe the car would run. You could have a helper; pull the line and see, if it moves @ the fuel filter and that would be the correct line. As it is, I don't think you can mix it up and have the engine run?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Im 100% sure the lines going to the fuel regulator were swapped. Hence why the lines didnt work in the first place even though i followed the placement of the old (cut on the used pump) lines.
 

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Ok, do you mean the lines to the fuel filter (right rear of the car) or fuel regulator (on the fuel rail; in the engine compartment)? If you swapped the fuel pump; from a 2005 model, the fuel lines, may have been a different color, that is a 7 year difference, I don't know for sure, what colors were used. Trying to help but maybe, I'm not understanding things?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The line to the fuel regulator. They were swapped. Seems like whoever was working on the car before me had to have done that. Makes sense because the way i have it now is that the fuel is not goint through the filter but just directly to the regulator and in to the engine (because it was the return line). Tomorrow im going to go over it and make sure everything is going to where it need to.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
These are the lines that were swapped(this is a old photo and they're swapped in the photo). Does anyone have a part number for these? I want to replaces them with some fresh ones.



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They are insanely expensive from VW ($300-$500); just make your own, here is a thread, where i list all the info and the correct spect Gates fuel line hose, I used, to make new ones (probably; less then $20-$30 total). I called Gates tech support and they gave me, the right spec hose and it works perfect! :)

 

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Discussion Starter #31
[UPDATE] First i wanted to thank you for the help, you have been very helpful :) . Now that i have the car running i have to tackle a oil leak. Its coming from the area squared off in the photo. Ive already checked the oil drain and have replaced it with a new plug and gasket.
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These cars are getting up in age; typically many of the hoses are bad, especially the pcv/oil breather related ones, the vacuum hoses (check the fuel pressure regulator to intake one) and gaskets, for the valve cover, oil filler cap/plastic base, etc, all can contribute to oil seeping everywhere (hard to pinpoint the source of the leak).

Genuine VW hoses can be pretty expensive; i have used CRP Rein (made in Turkey) and Gates (made in USA), surprisingly makes many VW hoses, at a very reasonable price and have a lifetime warranty!

You can look up he right ones for your; using their online catalog.

CRP/Rein:

Gates:

To figure out part #'s; you typically, can find a part number on the old hose/part or use the vw parts site, www.parts.vw.com

There are tons of hoses on ebay and amazon; which tend to be sourced from China, quality maybe questionable and may not last. I figure, considering, the Gates hoses are reasonably price and have a lifetime warranty, I would recommend them, unless you want genuine vw hoses, are willing to spend the extra money on those.
 

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Gaskets.....

It wouldn't surprise me; if gaskets, in the same area of hard and not sealing as they should. Typical failures; are the gaskets for the oil cap, the oil filler plastic base, valve cover, etc.

Stick with high quality gaskets; I have used Felpro in the past, lately, oem Elring, seem very high quality and then, I have also used Victor Reinz. If you have some time; FCPEURO, have great prices on these and offer a lifetime warranty on all they sell. Most local auto parts stores; carry Felpro and Victor Reinz.

As you are experiencing; after 15-20 years of neglect; if you want to leak free and a reliable car, you will end up replacing allot of parts, hoses, gaskets and other things, most people ignore. You maybe surprised to find; many gaskets, hoses,. etc; are the originals... so, no wonder they are leaking and tend to be bad, hard, cannot stop oil leaks, anymore.
 

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This is the most common hose; that is gooey, split and leaking oil; breather hose, that connects to the valve cover, through the oil cap plastic base/adapter.

250682


EMH118 EMISSION CONTROL HOSE GATES
Product # 74711118
 

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Discussion Starter #35
This is the most common hose; that is gooey, split and leaking oil; breather hose, that connects to the valve cover, through the oil cap plastic base/adapter.

View attachment 250682

EMH118 EMISSION CONTROL HOSE GATES
Product # 74711118
I did notice that this hose was loose and tightened it up. but its been leaking overnight.
 

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Classic, typically need replaced and pull the plastic base, clean it out replace the oil cap/base seals, these will be hard, leaking oil as well! :) Then valve cover gasket; cam seals possibly and other top engine gaskets are probably due for a refresh as well.
 

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It is hard to know for sure , you probably have leaks from many different areas but seeing how the car is 22 years old and probably everything is original I wouldn't be surprised if all the gaskets and hoses need replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
So this Tuesday and Wednesday (my weekend) im going to tackle the valve cover gasket and new oil pan. Just has a question, I see some oil dripping from under the passanger side, Were the wheelwell meets the door. Any ideas on what that could be?
 

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So, many possibilities; could be leaking from the valve cover, front crank seal or cam seals, all the way down. Another common leak, is the oil cool/oil filter base; it is a big o-ring, these can really leak allot! Which can cause you to have top off the oil from time to time.

250719



Elring® 634.380 - Oil Cooler Gasket


For the oil pan; be sure, to use a oem spec sealant, like Elring Dirko and Victor Reinz Reinzosil, these are recommended by VW and will seal, way better then a traditional gasket will.

VW part # D 176 404 A2

VICTOR REINZ Sealing Compound D176404M2 / 70-31414-10

ELRING Dirko HT part # 030.793

Gasket, Oil Sump - Gasket, Housing Cover (Crankcase)



Oil pan diy:


To nail down, all your oil leaks; may take, a series of gasket replacements and then, after each one, degrease, clean the engine, look for more leaks. There are leak detection kits; that use uv dye, that might be helpful, if you struggle to find the source of seeping oil.
 
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