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Well DUH! I know, connect the battery!

During the process of replacing the thermostat, I disconnected the battery, and now my Bug will not start. It acts as if the battery is dead. I tried to jump start it, but to no avail. Does anyone have some advice. Nothing worse than a dead Bug!
 

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Well DUH! I know, connect the battery!

During the process of replacing the thermostat, I disconnected the battery, and now my Bug will not start. It acts as if the battery is dead. I tried to jump start it, but to no avail. Does anyone have some advice. Nothing worse than a dead Bug!
Are you sure your leads are securely connected? What does it do when you try to start it? Does it turn over and over or just click?
 

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It clicks. The trouble lights, radio and daytime running lights turn on.

Take a look at the gear selection...it won't start in gears other than P and N.. And pull up your hand brake. This will turn the DRL off to save some current.

Are you able to identify whether the click is the starter solenoid? If the starter solenoid clicks but starter doesn't turn, check the battery voltage and the wire that goes from the positive lead to the starter. If they are good then the starter is probably bad(the other possibility is the engine seizes...).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have tightened the contacts on the battery, and I have tried to jump start the car. No luck.

Interestingly though, when I try to start the car, the check engine light flashes and I can hear a series of quick clicks. I feel that the proposed solution of resetting the engine control module may fix the problem, but I do not have a way to reset it.

If I use a rolling start to get the car running, would the engine control module reset itself with new data?
 

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You can try it, but I think you may have the same isue.
 

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Hmmm... could very well be a fuel pump issue. I may have disrupted the fuel pump relay when connecting/disconnecting the coolant lines. There was a strong gasoline smell in the garage once I finished the thermostat replacement. Your ideas are helpful, thank you. It is turning into a bigger job than I had hoped for!
 

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Hmmm... could very well be a fuel pump issue. I may have disrupted the fuel pump relay when connecting/disconnecting the coolant lines. There was a strong gasoline smell in the garage once I finished the thermostat replacement. Your ideas are helpful, thank you. It is turning into a bigger job than I had hoped for!

Its doubtful that you have thrown a code, the CEL turns on when the car starts to check for codes then turns off, the car isnt being able to cycle enough power to start the car so its turning on and off I assume with other lights, now if you can put the accessory lights on and the CEL stays on you can run it for codes to see.


The relay might be a problem however the car would turn over just not start had you messed with the fuel pump.


Im sticking with an electrical problem, follow the wires and make sure everything is tight one more time and not corroded, check the fuse terminal on top of the battery as well.
 

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Yes but if there is a bad connection the car will die because the battery cannot supply the spark plugs.
I don't believe that's true, most cars will run solely on the battery until it dies, and will run on the alternator independent of a battery. In this case I don't think it's a current supply issue. Getting there maybe, but not supply.

That said...

Now that I re-read your thread, it's not a failure to start problem, it's a failure to crank problem. You don't have a fuel delivery issue. First choice, corroded connection. If it is a corroded connection at the battery, it's not a tightening issue, but a cleaning issue. If the battery is low enough, and you are using light enough jumper cables, the battery is going to take the jump current and still may not be enough to crank. A good, fully charged battery may crank, but still not start the engine if the starter is bad, even t I have had this happen on many cars, and it was the positive side that needed to be cleaned. And while you have the connectors off the terminals, for good measure apply di-electric grease.

Do this:
1) remove and clean battery terminals and clamp fittings, if that doesn't work,
2) remove THE battery, have it charged and checked, re-install and if it's still only clicking,
3) remove the starter and have it bench tested, at that point if the starter is bad you can probably have the shop that tests it, rebuild it as cheap as you can buy a reman, maybe cheaper and re-install.
At this point you should have the engine cranking.

If you get it to the point of cranking, and it won't start then you do the basic tests for ignition and fuel delivery, spark at the plugs, fuel on the plugs. But you have to get it cranking. Actually I think when you have resolved the power supply issue, you will be up and running.

M..
 

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Maybe you could shoot some starter fluid into the air box or directly down the MAF tube to see if the car will pop. if it does then you know if you got spark. There is a fuel shutoff valve. The ecu does control that and there is a way to check to see if the valve itself is faulty. You could maybe pull the fuel line to see if you have pressure. that could get messy though. Just some ideas. If you are going to check to see if the fuel pump is working, just lossen the nut at the fuel rail line maybe 1/2 turn to see if fuel squirts out,keep a paper towel or rag handy if the pump is working you will know
 

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Maybe you could shoot some starter fluid into the air box or directly down the MAF tube to see if the car will pop. if it does then you know if you got spark. There is a fuel shutoff valve. The ecu does control that and there is a way to check to see if the valve itself is faulty. You could maybe pull the fuel line to see if you have pressure. that could get messy though. Just some ideas. If you are going to check to see if the fuel pump is working, just lossen the nut at the fuel rail line maybe 1/2 turn to see if fuel squirts out,keep a paper towel or rag handy if the pump is working you will know
The car IS NOT cranking! The point that is being missed here.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I reread my Chilton's troubleshooting guide. After a little study, I agree it is an electrical/starter problem. I cleaned the battery today and now I am charging it. I used my multimeter. The battery only had 11 volts. I appreciate the help and advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just an update. After charging the battery and resetting the engine codes. I got the car up and running, and much cooler as well! Yeah. Thanks for the help.
 

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Another satisfied "customer"! (lol)

However, now that you have it running, it might be a good idea to have the battery checked, corner parts store, NTB, Sears, etc. Also the alternator. Something caused the battery to be so low it wouldn't start the car, unless it was simply dirty/corroded connections.

M.
 
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