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'98 with unknown shifting issue

3K views 30 replies 4 participants last post by  Azarea18 
#1 ·
1998 Automatic. Runs in first couple gears fine. When revving up to shift to next gear (3rd or 4th, no idea) it will go up over 4k RPM and then hard shift around 4.2k RPM. If you get up to 3.9-4k RPM and let off gas slightly it shifts smoothly and you can give gas and keep going.

After that shift it won't shift again no matter the speed. Once you get it up to about 60 MPH, it's running about 4.5-5k RPM. I know this can't be normal. I hate to try and drive over 55-60 MPH because of this. For in town, it still works perfect up to 45 MPH.
 
#2 ·
Have you scanned for codes?
 
#4 · (Edited)
You will need a vw specific scan tool; to scan for codes and view live data.




Cheaper options could be Obdeleven or the Chinese knockoff "VAG" scanners on Amazon.




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#6 · (Edited)
There are cheaper options; vcds is the top tier tool, obdeleven is android based and then, there are other handheld vag scanners, as well.

Viewing live data, is really helpful; to diagnose things and live data, can help you "see" if things are working as they should. The cost of a VW specific scan tool, should be kept in perspective; a basic diagnostic; flat diagnostic fee,from a professional VW or trans shop is going to probably be at least $100-$200.

Having your own vw factory level scan tool; may enable you to diagnose the issue yourself and you would need this tool, to complete, say doing a valve body swap and fluid filter change yourself. He's keep you on your toes and require consistent maintenance and repairs, a VW scan tool will really help you and save you thousands of dollars, by enabling you, to do your own repairs

Any shifting problems are fixed by having rebuild or replaced; worst case scenario, if there is internal dMage: the transmission will need to be pulled, fully disassembled, all parts inspected, bad or worn parts replaced, valve body repaired and overall, the trans fully rebuilt.

After 23 years of use and substantial mileage; you are going to have to expect them to have shifting issues and need repairs.

Let us know: are you going to do repairs yourself or have a professional shop do it for you?


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#7 ·
I will look into one of those options probably. I plan on doing repairs myself. I have prior experience with most jobs in the shop. Just don't work in one anymore with the benefit of having a shop scanner. I also don't really have any experience on VW's. Most is on domestic vehicles.

I planned on doing a transmission filter and fluid change this week regardless. I was going to use a digital thermometer off my multimeter to get fluid temp when I refill.
 
#8 ·
If you are a former tech with transmission experience; you might start researching things for the 01M trans installed in your 98' model. These were made by the oem Aisin for VW.

Service manuals



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#10 ·
#11 ·
#12 ·
Thank you again for your help. Finally got to take it to the shop to have scanned for codes. ....It threw out a lot.

16519 - O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heating Circuit Malfunction P0135 > Not worried about right away
16518 - O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 No Activity P0134 > Not worried about right away

16687 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0303 - Intermittent > Replaced coil pack, should be fixed; haven't cleared code yet.
16826 - EVAP Emission Control Sys Small Leak P0442 > There is a small exhaust leak somewhere, not sure where yet but you can hear it
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 - Intermittent > Replaced coil pack, should be fixed; haven't cleared code yet.
16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0301 - Intermittent > Replaced coil pack, should be fixed; haven't cleared code yet.

00652 - Gear Monitoring Not a Plausible Signal - Intermittent > Not sure what sensor this is for yet

01217 - Side Airbag Igniter Driver Side (N199) Resistance Too High - Intermittent > Haven't looked into this one yet
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ Signal Too Low - Intermittent > Haven't looked into this one yet.


The BIG ONE
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68) No Signal
The issue with this is not that I can't replace it; I have a new sensor and have even taken everything apart to replace it. The issue is that the original sensor is cutoff halfway down the wire and there is no plug. There is not even a connector for it coming out of any wiring harness in the compartment and I have no idea where it is supposed to be. All you see when you remove the transmission mount is the sensor and 2 inches of wire coming from it. Where the connector is supposed to connect 8 inches away there isn't anything in sight.
 
#13 ·
#15 ·
We have been down this road with others; lots of good info in this thread:


As to harness issues; vw had a tech bulletin on a overlay harness they sold, which may not not be available now, as it maybe "nla" or no longer available but your vw dealer parts dept, can get you vw factory yellow repair wires with precrimped terminals on each end and replacement plug housings, a pigtail that is prewired (amazon or ebay) or a sectioned out used harness from a junkyard is another option.
 
#18 ·
These are overlay harnesses, that go all the way to the ecm; i posted these tech bulletins, so you could see this info and you could repair your harness. Obviously, this is the official vw dealer repair solution; you maybe able to just need to replace specific parts, say the pigtail, terminal ends, plug housing, broken wires, sections of damaged wires,etc.

To troubleshoot problems with the sensors; viewing live data, would be effective before and after replacement parts are installed, to confirm the sensors are working. Review the thread i linked to above; lots of good info.


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#19 ·
So follow up after taking several months to get parts, tools, and do more research.

I was able to get a new G68 sensor pretty quickly from local parts shop for about 50 bucks. The issue was the overlay harness for it. The original cable has part number 1C0971661A, and has been discontinued. I called every VW dealer within 500 miles of me and even got ahold of a tech from a VW factory. They don't make them any more. Now for the G38 sensor, the same overlay cable is part number 1C0971661B. And they ONLY differences are wire color and the end connector to connect to the sensor. I WAS able to find this cable. Now since I don't have a G38 issue I held off and tried to find the right one.

After waiting a couple months though I decided to by the 'wrong' cable. I was able to buy a multi-purpose 3-terminal connector from O'Reilys and with a little modification and splicing I was able to make a cable that would work. Took some time today and got the new G68 sensor installed and the harness to the TCM as well. Boy, was that fun....

Put everything back together and cleared all codes with a VAG COM I purchased and VCDS Lite. Took it for a drive and IMMEDIATELY felt and saw a difference. It now shifts as it should and not hard like before. It also shifts through all 4 gears and not stopping at 3rd. Being able to drive over 45 MPH is great. Once I got back in the garage I ran VCDS again and it no longer is throwing codes for the transmission.

Now of course I need to still replace an O2 sensor and repair the exhaust leak(exhaust pipe has a hole from rust). But first is the misfire error code. Tomorrow I will be taking it back apart to replace the head and valve cover gaskets (no coolant/oil mixing but it does leak a fair bit), and also replace the timing belt and tensioner as that hasn't ever been done in it's lifespan.

The help and guides on this forum have been a godsend so far.
 
#20 ·
Good work, it seems you have made some solid progress and success with working out, your shifting issues with your 01M trans.

If you have a head gasket issue; i recommend have the head checked out for cracks, pressure tested, valve seals, guides, etc, and have the mating surface machined.

Another option, is to get a advanced exchange rebuilt head; which is faster and can be more cost effective, if repairs are needed. I have had good luck with these guys: www.headsonly.com

For good prices on oem parts; like head gasket kits (e.g. elring, victir reinz) and timing belt kits, FCPEuro.com offers quality oem parts, free shipping and lifetime warranty on everything they sell.
 
#21 ·
So I got the whole thing taken apart today and several items of note. First, previous owners were neglectful and either did shoddy work themselves or had a shoddy mechanic do repair work. Timing belt doesn't look like it was ever changed, though I know it had to have been messed with at some point as half the shielding is missing. I also found that the engine is out of time, though barely. A single tooth worth of difference.

The engine mount on the passenger side was all mixed up. 3 different kinds of bolts were being used to hold it secure. Makes me think someone just took a trip to Lowe's or something for bolts. I have new bolts ordered to replace them correctly.

I'm not having the head machined. The leak I'm positive now was from the valve cover gasket. Also took a straight edge and shims and the head is still straight and true. No seen exchange between oil and coolant and the main head gasket itself wasn't in too bad of shape.

On all my parts I am using Fel-Pro for the gaskets and head bolts. Import Direct for timing belt, tensioner, water pump kit. Just buying everything so far through local O'Reilys. I should have everything cleaned and back together tomorrow afternoon. Took time today to just do a lot of cleaning after tear-down.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I would double check the quality of the parts inside the import direct timing belt kit; we seem ti have had inferior aftermarket parts for things in that house brand line of O’Reilly’s parts but haven’t heard about the t/b kits. All the parts are crucial, as any failure can take out the belt and head. OEM parts being recommended; which engine are you working with? Lately, fcpeuro kits i buy; are continental belts, ina/schaeffler idler pulleys, ntn hydraulic tensioners, water pumps, choose between, graf, meyle hd, hepu with metal impeller, etc. It would be a shame to do all this work and then have poor quality parts on the timing belt path fail and wipe out your head.

When, it comes to import/euro car parts; o’reilly seems to only have the import direct line; while Autozone, you can get oem parts or order from somewhere like FCPEuro, that carries oem top quality parts (free shipping, lifetime warranty).

Felpro should be fine; lately, i am using Victor Reinz and now I’m finding Elring, to be better, supposedly a oem supplier to VW.


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#24 ·
I didn't see any issues or defects when looking over the parts today, and as the car is an in-town only that we only put 20 miles on in a week I am not as concerned as I would be if it was a longer daily driver.

So far I haven't had issues with any import direct parts from O'Reilys and in my current area Autozone isn't able to get parts as easily for me. I also prefer not to order online, if I can get OE level quality quicker and cheaper. The line also has warranty coverages so that is nice too.
 
#26 ·
All the parts are listed as made in USA, Turkey, or Mexico. USA for belt and water pump.

Got it all back together today except for upper intake. Had to stop for family time. Will wrap up tomorrow morning and see how it goes.

Making sure it was in time when putting the new belt on was a pain in the butt, though. Everything wanted to keep moving on me. But I got it done and did a few rotations to make sure it stayed in time. Glad I decided to do the work though. The old belt upon more inspection today was missing a ton of chunks from the teeth. Several teeth were barely there so I'm surprised it hadn't slipped yet. Found a lot of tooth remnants in the bottom cover area. I'm also thankful the old water pump had a plastic impeller as the impeller was partially broken.

This job overall has taken me a lot longer than I expected, but on the flipside I expect it to live longer and more efficiently now. At a minimum keep on driving for me.
 
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