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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I consider myself pretty good with electrical issues but this one has me stumped, hopefully the Vdub Gods are looking, you guys are awesome, I seen a few post throughout the site related to parasitic draw and ya helped the person get it fixed

OK I recently bought what I thought was an awesome deal on a 99 Beetle 2.0 with 12*,*** miles for $600 with a bad starter(wire from solenoid to starter motor was bad).. so I hot wired it with a screw driver and it started right up with an exhaust leak but engine sounded fine so I bought it.. But it needed a bunch of things.. first off I went to a junkyard(no beetles) and found a jetta with the 2.0 so I stripped the started and got the wire I needed and fixed the starter(works great, cleaned everything while i had it all apart), next the grill and core support was damaged so I changed(all new, local JY wanted too much) everything there as well as new fogs. also there was an exhaust leak(coupler from the mid pipe to tailpipe) fixed that then had a rattle in the exhaust(put new converter on it). drivers side window didn't work(motor was unplugged bc regulator was bad) fixed all that, noticed the speakers were missing the foam so replaced all of those.. and just did a pair of ball joints and all the brake pads and rotors.. now

the Problem is I drove it around for a day and all is great engine sounds perfect exhaust is quiet and radio sounds ok(Don't think its monsoon)I parked it and the next day the battery is weak and almost didn't start(brand new battery) so I had it checked and all is good, they charged and it tested good after it was charged. so I decided to do a little draw test so I hooked a jumper wire with 2 alligator clips to the terminal and the wire from the fusible links and cables on top of the battery and disconnected it from the post. I then opened the door and stuck a screw driver in the latch to close it so it would think the door was shut, same with the hood latch(when I replaced the core support I noticed there's a plug on the latch) I then put my meter on 10amps and I'm getting .198 once the alligator clip is disconnected and my meter is running in series. so I disconnected several fuses one at a time and most of it was minor changes till i got to the radio, it was a slightly bigger change but not that bad... but fuse 14 i went from .198 to .051 or so. I read a lot on beetles drawing power and many people mention the car doesn't go to "SLEEP" unless the door is locked so I locked the door and the flashing light begins to flash(with a small horn chirp) check the draw and its about the same no big change, left it for 5 minutes still no big change, an hour or 2 later roughly the same draw.. pull fuse 14 and back to .051 or so.. so I started looking at the wiring diagrams.. only diagram I found mentioning fuse 14 shows it goes straight to the comfort system but doesn't show what happens after that.. the comfort system has several inputs and outputs but how is one supposed to diagnose an issue there?? I'm about to see if I can locate this box(supposedly near the obd2 connector) and pull it apart to see if there's anything obvious like burnt or melted wires going in it, maybe burnt spot on the circuit board inside or blown capacitors or something.

Does anyone have any clue what this draw could be coming from? I'd hate to have to ad a relay to disconnect that fuse when the car is off cause the car will not start without it..

more info on the car cause I know the wiring is different..
its a 99 beetle hardtop 2.0 SOHC Gas NonTurbo, no sunroof, with power windows and doorlocks and I think its just the standard radio(it doesn't say monsoon on it anywhere)
 

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If it is a '99 NB it does not have a monsoon radio system; not certain what year Monsoon came out.

If your problem is the convenience control module, is not repairable; you will need another one.

Off the top of my head power drains can come from ...

... faulty radio
... faulty alternator
... faulty ignition switch
... faulty door lock control module (one in each door)
... faulty instrument cluster

Would be a good thing to check your ground connections; especially the one under the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK So Im gonna yank the Batt out and check the ground, Any other grounds I should check out? this car seems to have been from up north, has a few rusty spots on some of the things underneath
 

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Congrats on the new car. Sounds like you are able and willing to give it the attention it will need to get it up to snuff. It might be a lot of work but hopefully it will be worth it in the end.

You've done a good job learning and diagnosing so far.

In my manual fuse 14 is listed as "interior lights." The wiring diagram shows it going to the luggage compartment lamp, the left and right make-up lights behind the visors, the front interior light on the rear view mirror and the two side reading lights. These all have a common thread, which is that they are controlled individually by a local switch. My guess is that one of the switches is not opening fully and causing the draw that you are seeing. The .15 amp or so probably isn't enough to light bulb the fully, but you might check at night and see if you can see a little light coming from one of these bulbs. Also, try taking the bulbs out one at a time until the extra draw goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
that sounds like a good Idea, I'll start pulling bulbs..

Otherwise the ground under the battery looks OK but I went ahead and wire brushed it and put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All the bulbs are off, pulled like 90% of them with no change in the draw. haven't had enough time today to yank the comfort control box but if the weather agrees I'll do it tomorrow,

Any other idea's or things I should check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK so I been doing a lot of research and came across something interesting.. according to a few people VW's need to be reset somehow(I'm assuming through the vagcom) after battery change, people are saying that certain things don't work and other tell them they need to have the car reset.. could that potentially be whats killing my battery? the car was fine as far as I can remember prior to replacing the starter, it spend maybe a week with the battery disconnected. I cant remember if that's when the issue started though cause I've done so many little things to this car its unreal, but is that true, does the car somehow need a reset after a battery change, As far as I can tell everything works, just keeps killing the battery so I pull fuse 14, I'm gonna pull the radio tomorrow, doubt that will change anything but i'm just taking shots in the dark with this thing..

also on a side note... is the key supposed to go all the way in the trunk hatch part?? mine only goes like 1/2-3/4 inch in I tried looking in there i didn't see a broken key or anything, gonna try some wd40 tomorrow.
 

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The only thing that will need to be reset is the throttle body adaption and you can do this easily without a scan tool. This happened to me one time when my battery ran down overnight. The engine wouldn't adjust its idle speed so it was too slow when cold and faster than normal when warm. Also, the cruise control wouldn't work. Just turn the key to "run" without starting for a period of 30 seconds. You should hear the idle speed motor run for a while. After 30 seconds turn the switch off and then start the engine. I don't know of anything else that needs to be reset.

The key should operate normally in the trunk hatch. I wouldn't use WD-40 though. It is petroleum based and will eventually gum the lock cylinder up good. Use products specifically designed for lock cylinders, usually graphite-based lubricants.
 

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Does the key work to open the trunk? If not, it may be a valet key that is made to not work on anything but the door and the ignition.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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OK so I been doing a lot of research and came across something interesting.. according to a few people VW's need to be reset somehow ...
Sort of true; not certain if this applies to NB's or not. Some car computers have on-board batteries, like desktops/laptops; you may or may not have heard the comment, "... the car learns how you drive." This is so the car can maintain some running settings.

When the car battery goes dead, and then the on-board computer battery goes dead, some operational settings are lost and the car has to "re-learn" those lost settings after the batteries have been recharged.

I do know that when I disconnect the battery from any of my NB's for a week or more; the auto-up/down for the windows do not work until the next day.
 

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Follow-up

Do you still have the car?
We had the same problem, short term solution after tracing it down for literally weeks was to disconnect the a/c compressor. My wife drives it to work and back and doesn't care about the a/c.
However a new problem or set of problems have arisen; suddenly the headlights, wipers, horn, heater fan, blinkers have all stopped working with the exception of the brights which work only when the lever is held back in position by hand.
Also she has trouble starting the car after filling up, eventually it starts.
So we have narrowed the problem items down to two items the ignition switch and the load reduction relay. I am checking into replacing the latter now as I have already decided to replace the ignition switch as it seems to be a HUGE trend in these models.
Let me know where you are:confused: and if you still have the car hope this info helped.
Thanks
 

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new issue resolved

I had to install a new ignition switch, harness which I had to modify to fit different connectors to ones that had overheated, melted the old harness and caused a short. I also replaced the load reduction relay for insurance.
Now I am contemplating re-connecting the a/c unit to see if the parasitic draw is gone as the switch had been heated obviously for a long time and shorting (in hindsight) for a while.
I'll let you all know the results.
This is a glorified bump!!!!
Floyd
 
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