NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A/C clutch burned out, bad FCM?

Haha another problem with our beloved Beetle!

After the AC quit a few weeks ago, I replaced the fuse on top of the battery and it worked again. Then it stopped working all of a sudden. I checked the voltage at the AC clutch connector as 9 volts; problem was, the key wasn't in the ignition?! I watched the voltage reading with the key on and off, a/c on and off and the voltage only changed +/- 0.5 volts. Then I removed the AC fuse and the voltage didn't change... wow.

I'm assuming this means the relay is stuck closed, energizing the clutch 100% of the time, and probably why it quit working! edit: relay turned out good, could be fan control module, but I opened it up and it looks good. Going to have to test it to be sure.

So has anyone seen this before? Also know where I can get a replacement A/C clutch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Update on my issue. Replaced the fan controller and now the electronics work as they should. The 2-pin connector at the a/c compressor clutch now read 0 volts at key off and 13 volts when a/c button is on. Problem is the a/c clutch is burned out, but I found a replacement on ebay. Will let you guys know how it works out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
What was the part number, and where was it? Are you talking the one behind the dash? Thanks a lot!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The fan controller is located in the engine bay, underneath the battery tray which can only be accessed underneath the car. It's held on by 2 10mm screws on top in front of the battery. If you look at the battery box on top, you will see an electrical connector go underneath the battery from front to back, this is one of the electrical connectors for the fan controller.

I purchased mine for $50 from ECStuning.com. Before you buy it, you have to verify which version you have. First count how many pins are on your fan controller, mine had a 4-pin connector and a 14-pin connector. Then you need to verify which version by looking at the printed box and circle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So in my other thread, I replaced the a/c clutch which was burned out. But now this problem has come back!! The A/C clutch is staying on all the time, even with the key out of the ignition! I discovered it this morning when I went to start the car, the battery was dead. When I hooked up my battery charger/starter I heard a click coming from the clutch! Something is causing the A/C clutch to stay on ALL THE TIME... Can this be being caused by the A/C high pressure switch or is my FCM bad again?

Before I drove the car yesterday, the A/C clutch was receiving 12 volts ONLY when the engine was running and the A/C switch was pressed on. Now it's getting power without the key in the ignition. Previously, I solved this before by changing the FCM. While I was test driving it, the overpressure valve built into the compressor was discharging R-134a into the atmosphere which means the high pressure switch isn't doing its job OR it is doing its job, but something is telling the A/C to remain on regardless?

Is it possible my new MTC-brand FCM (from ecstuning.com) is malfunctioning or could it be that the high pressure switch is broke? From what I understand, the high pressure switch only cuts off power to the a/c clutch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes, that was replaced too. I just tested the connector going to the A/C clutch and it is receiving 12-volts with the key removed from the ignition!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Solved the problem. Replaced the crappy MTC brand with Stribel fan control module. AC is working perfectly now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,052 Posts
Interesting; about the MTC (Mission Trading Company) branded replacement parts; they seem to be this somewhat new trend of inexpensive parts that are not made by the oem companies. As far as I can tell; these are many times of Asian County of Origin and other European based brand enthusiasts websites (BMW, MB, etc.), peoples experiences has been poor with the parts not lasting with premature failure. Another company; Uro, has also received negative reviews. I guess buyer beware and do not be tempted by the low prices; others seem to say the quality is hit or miss, depending on what you are buying. I guess; as the old saying goes... "you get what you pay for".

Mission Trading Company | MTC | Wholesale Supplier for Discount Car & Truck Replacement Parts | Engine, Suspension and Mount Part Manufacturer

URO Parts - European Auto Parts Manufactured by APA Industries

Some say the quality is hit or miss; allot of it depends on what the part is; plastics, tail light cover etc.; maybe not as crucial as the above electrical part or a suspension part that will be under allot of stress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Comparing to the OEM price of $200 vs $50 for the MTC, it was a risky purchase. I'm glad ECS Tuning allowed me to return it and upgrade to the Stribel brand. Otherwise I'd be SOL on that. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
There are just some things not to cinch on. Sensors are best OE or OEM supplier, as are many other electrical parts.

URO, its hit or miss, but I use their $7 windshield washer pumps all day long and so far no issue. Have one in the Beetle now, hope it lasts as the pump is a PITA to replace in this car!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top