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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I need your help. There are 3 fuses on top on the battery. One is for the A/C. I had replaced it already once cuz it had melted and just last week again it melted. Its using a regular fuse 15 like the ones in the interior compartment. I noticed that the other two fuses next to it are different than the ones on the inside. There not transparent but yet look more solid. Is it the wrong fuse or size? Please help I dont want to replace it again cuz it might ignite. Maybe a pic of the type on fuse on your car? Mine is a 2003 Turbo S. Dont know if that matters.
 

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Edit_2012-03-19_1.JPG

Should be green like the other ones Fuse 180

Make sure the connecton the fuse blades pulg into are corrosion free.

The a/c compresser could be drawing to many amps, but I would put the correct fuse in first.
 

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Hit the nail on the head

15amp is way too small so change it back to the 30amp as the two members above have stated. Run the AC and feel along the cables and around the fuse box, it may get warm but not hot. It it is getting hot and cables start to discolour, shut down and trace the fault. Gut feeling tells me it's the fuse, I hope so :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. Im a go ahead and change it to a 30amp fuse. Hopefully that takes care of the problem. Just a thought: Shouldn't the 15amp fuse simply burnt out rather than melt? The black plastic around where the fuse was is literally melted.
 

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If the plastic holder on the fuse block is melted I am not sure that a new fuse will fix the problem. You need to check the fuse connector to make sure its not damaged or corroded or the new fuse will only get hot and make the fuse connector worse. The only way to fix a bad connector is to replace the battery fuse assembly.
 

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beatmania IIDX
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My fans wouldn't turn on last week, and so I checked the fuses...



This probably explains my ABS light staying on forever. Let's see how much the dealer wants for this...
 

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You can get the fuse box for $30 on ebay all day long. Easy to replace on your own. Basic disconnect and connect.

I will recommend you to brush those cables and make them shine again to ensure good connection.
 

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beatmania IIDX
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So this is caused by the A/C taking too much power, maybe being low on coolant on a really hot day? Shouldn't there be some kind of contrl built in that would shut off the high-amp/voltage connection or at least have some dash warning light? Gah.

Is this safe to drive?

 

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No, this is caused by poor electrical contact. If the circuit has too much power (A) drawn through it then the fuse will blow. But if there is poor contact and you get resistance, then the by-product is heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My fans wouldn't turn on last week, and so I checked the fuses...



This probably explains my ABS light staying on forever. Let's see how much the dealer wants for this...
This is exactly what is happening to mine. What could be causing it? Manufacturer defect? I also noticed that S177 is overheating and starting to melt. Could replacing this part stop the problem? o_O Oh and my ABS light kept coming on and off as well.
 

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fuse 177 is from the alternator.There were problems with the wire harnesses and the is a new one. There are DYI availble on building one with better wire(size).

The poster with the ABS light on the 2 righthand green fuses 179 and 178 are for the abs system.
 

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beatmania IIDX
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Since I was forced to take it to a dealer I did, I mentioned the Alternator Harness and they said it was fine. (it looks okay, but there's a small crack in the wire coating where it leaves the fuse box... When I asked why my fuses would overheat they said, "Well, on older cars, these kind of things happen."

Yeah, that's it, no reason. Luckily they guarantee the parts/labor for a year/12k miles...so hopefully if it fails it happens sooner rather than later. Ended up costing $480 for labor, $120 for the Fuse assembly and fuses, and $50 for the Freon. Yeah...

My A/C was running low before this happened, would that cause it to use up more electricity trying to bring the temp up, and kill the fuse?
 

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My A/C was running low before this happened, would that cause it to use up more electricity trying to bring the temp up, and kill the fuse?
No. If you have a 30A fuse and pull more power through the fuse than what it is rated for, it will blow... that is what fuses do.

As I stated above, poor electrical contact that creates resistance which in turn generates heat is the cause. The blade of the fuse where it is pushed into the fuse block does not make good physical contact with the contacts in the fuse block.
 

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Since I was forced to take it to a dealer I did, I mentioned the Alternator Harness and they said it was fine. (it looks okay, but there's a small crack in the wire coating where it leaves the fuse box... When I asked why my fuses would overheat they said, "Well, on older cars, these kind of things happen."

Yeah, that's it, no reason. Luckily they guarantee the parts/labor for a year/12k miles...so hopefully if it fails it happens sooner rather than later. Ended up costing $480 for labor, $120 for the Fuse assembly and fuses, and $50 for the Freon. Yeah...

My A/C was running low before this happened, would that cause it to use up more electricity trying to bring the temp up, and kill the fuse?
WOW, they took you to the cleaners. Switching out the fuse box is definitely a DIY job and the fuse box itself would have been around 30 bucks. Fuses are a dime a dozend and it seems like they really didn't research the true cause for this which means it could happen again. BTW, it has nothing to do with your AC not having enough freon. It's a matter of increased resistance in the circuit. If not traced and fixed this issue can repeat itself and not amount of freon is going to help. Besides your system should not loose any freon ever unless there is a leak. Hope they at least fixed that.

A common cause is the large black wire that runs from the fuse box to the alternator. Even if it looks okay, I would replace it if you get the chance. Age and the elements cause wiring to fail even if you can't see it.
It has nothing to do on how HOT your car runs or how much coolant is in the car or how many times you check your fuses.
If there is too much resitance in the wire the wire will melt.
 

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Twizzler
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I started multiple threads years ago regarding the infamous melting fuseblock above the battery. Without a DOUBT, it IS your alternator wire. Some are manufactured worser than others . The block fuses and contacts will melt regardless of contact condition or position or drain in circuit BECAUSE ITS THE RESISTANCE ON THE ALTERNATOR WIRE THAT IS HEATING UP THE BLOCK ABOVE THE BATTERY. Once changed out you will notice IMMEDIATELY that the car operates quieter and cooler. VW poor quality standards on the black alternator wire harness to fuse block. Create a non-braided heavy heat resistant version and your fuse block will never melt.
 
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