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I am having problems with my A/C. When the A/C works, it works great. However, it just quits working frequently, (usually when it is 95 degrees outside). I have had the freon checked by VW dealer as I suspected either a low or high pressure switch was the problem. They said everything checks out, (of course the A/C was working when I stopped by). I just installed a new fan control module which is a pain to install as the battery box had to come completely out. Did not help as the problem still exists. I have checked the fuses and wiring on top of the battery and everything checks out ok with my meter. Any ideas from anyone???
 

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The most common AC issues I've seen (in random order here):

Low charge due to [xxx]. Your system holds like 750 grams of charge. One of the first things I do when checking an AC system is to pull the charge out and see how much it had, pull vacuum to see that is holds vacuum then recharge the system. This gives me a chance to sit around and drink soda as well.

Pressure Sensor: There is a pressure sensor just before the expansion valve at the bulk head. The sensor just unscrews so it only takes a few seconds to swap them out with a known good sensor.

Bad Fuse Block: Somewhat common problem with the NB, the fuse block on top of the battery, the fist of the three 30A fuses, take a close look and see if there is any heat damage to the fuse block there. The fuse will be good, but a poor electrical contact between one of the fuse blades and the fuse block itself will generate a lot of heat... melting plastic and burn a hole in the plastic flap cover kind of heat. Said fuse goes to fan control module... fan control module is what allows AC clutch power up. I check every NB fuse block I come across since it is a somewhat common issue.

Outside air temp sensor: At the base of the windshield, on the right side I think, is a temp sensor, two wire. Some of them rattle if you shake them, normal. Sometimes if the AC isn't working you can tap on them with a screw driver handle and the AC will kick right on. Or swap your out with a friends car and see if he ends up with the same problem (do this with the pressure switch as well... but only do one at a time).

That relay under the dash: I'm to lazy right now to look at the wiring diagram, but there is a relay under the dash for the AC. I've seen where said relay will get a crack at one of the soldier joints that results in a non-working AC. Check your wiring diagram and locate said relay, pull it out, pop the cover off and carefully inspect the soldier points for the terminals. If you find one crack, just reheat that soldier joint.

Wife turning off AC when I'm not looking: The price you pay when you say "I do". No know repairs for this issue.

Screwy Fan Control Modules: I have a known good one on hand that I just plug up to see if that is a quick fix. Now you have a test module as well.

I hope this helps out. Ignore my typos (easter eggs).

Later.
 

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fuse block

I just went through the AC (no ac) that is recently. I went to three different places. First place suspected module, but did not have it, second place suspected module and replaced but it did not fix the problem. Third place found problem to be the fuse block on top of the battery. so sounds like another vw has the same problem. My ve iis 2002 with 56k m iles. I love the little vw, glad to have it back. Fun to drive. Although it is a rough rideer. Wonder if all vw's beetles ride rough? It is like i dont have any shocks.
 

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hell yea my car hater RR track even b4 i lowered it. feels like the suspension bottoms out alot even when my other cars dont
 

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With all these electrical gremlins I'd skin this cat a different way - simply run a fused ignition +12v cable to the compressor electromagnet clutch and the cooling fans via the low pressure switch. Switch the +12V via a relay which self latches when you press a button on the dash. This way the main electrical load is removed from the equation and you have full control over the aircon (as long as the cabin fan works). Hasn't happened to us yet but if/when it does we'll make it simpler than the factory design.
This will not give "climate control" but here in North Queensland when you need cooling you need the compressor running full time - and thats for 9 months of the year.
 

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ac/ problem 2006 vw beetle

My system was working fine and i took it in to have the inspection done, and when i picked it up I have a strong oil smell coming from my vents befor i even cranked it up a coupe of days later when i turned on the ac it didn't cool. return to dealer they said the high and low pressure sides of the a/c were 70 psi, holding pressure but not cooling. they recomended complete a/c replacement, help!:
 

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pressure switch

hi there need help... 1st time in this forum ... im having trouble with my air con 1999 new beetle 2.0.. technicians told me there s freon leak ... they charge freon ... and 3 days later . its not working again... this time they tell me to replace the dual pressure switch , told me its all brittle up and leak comes from the switch.... where do i get this pressure swithc... wats the part no... thanks ... this is my 1st vw unit
 

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hi there need help... 1st time in this forum ... im having trouble with my air con 1999 new beetle 2.0.. technicians told me there s freon leak ... they charge freon ... and 3 days later . its not working again... this time they tell me to replace the dual pressure switch , told me its all brittle up and leak comes from the switch.... where do i get this pressure swithc... wats the part no... thanks ... this is my 1st vw unit
Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of useful information here on keeping up your NB.

Here is a link for the switch:

Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 > Climate Control > Air Conditioning > Switches > ES#2576297 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch - 1K0959126D

I didn't find it listed on the chain store websites. The manual shows this going onto a Schraeder fitting, so no need to discharge the A/C to install it. There is an o-ring, though, which should be replaced. Take the old o-ring to a store to find one the right size or go to a VW dealer. The o-ring could be the whole problem as well but it wouldn't be good to pay for an A/C charge to find out.
 

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Hot in my car and under my collar!

The A/c in my 2002 Beetle worked "sporadically" Took it to repair shop, they told me my compressor was working, but not hard enough for our 100+ degree days and it needed to be replaced along with receiver/dryer and expansion valve. They gave me a price and I told them to fix it. Picked it up 6 days later, first cool ride I have had in my car all summer. Next day it worked somewhat. Didn't drive the car for a week, then got in it and no air at all. Took it back to the Bug Shop, they had it for 6 days and told me that I had electrical gremlins, and if I wanted to pay for them to fix it they would try to figure out what it was. I have already spent 1,200.00 on what they said was the problem in the first place...I am not and can't afford to give them anymore money. If I have to replace every electrical part at home, so be it...but could someone head me in the most common direction for this problem? Appreciate any help given!!
 

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There is a sensor located directly in front of your coolant temperature sensor. This sensor turned off the air conditioner when engine temperatures rise above 250 degrees Fahrenheit.
This sensor goes bad, and your AC will work for a little while and then it would just stop working.
It is a two wire sensor and you can jump it off with a paper clip to make sure that is your problem.
:)

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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ac problem

The most common AC issues I've seen (in random order here):

Low charge due to [xxx]. Your system holds like 750 grams of charge. One of the first things I do when checking an AC system is to pull the charge out and see how much it had, pull vacuum to see that is holds vacuum then recharge the system. This gives me a chance to sit around and drink soda as well.

Pressure Sensor: There is a pressure sensor just before the expansion valve at the bulk head. The sensor just unscrews so it only takes a few seconds to swap them out with a known good sensor.

Bad Fuse Block: Somewhat common problem with the NB, the fuse block on top of the battery, the fist of the three 30A fuses, take a close look and see if there is any heat damage to the fuse block there. The fuse will be good, but a poor electrical contact between one of the fuse blades and the fuse block itself will generate a lot of heat... melting plastic and burn a hole in the plastic flap cover kind of heat. Said fuse goes to fan control module... fan control module is what allows AC clutch power up. I check every NB fuse block I come across since it is a somewhat common issue.

Outside air temp sensor: At the base of the windshield, on the right side I think, is a temp sensor, two wire. Some of them rattle if you shake them, normal. Sometimes if the AC isn't working you can tap on them with a screw driver handle and the AC will kick right on. Or swap your out with a friends car and see if he ends up with the same problem (do this with the pressure switch as well... but only do one at a time).

That relay under the dash: I'm to lazy right now to look at the wiring diagram, but there is a relay under the dash for the AC. I've seen where said relay will get a crack at one of the soldier joints that results in a non-working AC. Check your wiring diagram and locate said relay, pull it out, pop the cover off and carefully inspect the soldier points for the terminals. If you find one crack, just reheat that soldier joint.

Wife turning off AC when I'm not looking: The price you pay when you say "I do". No know repairs for this issue.

Screwy Fan Control Modules: I have a known good one on hand that I just plug up to see if that is a quick fix. Now you have a test module as well.

I hope this helps out. Ignore my typos (easter eggs).

Later.
I have been looking at old threads on AC problems to find my problem's answer. Our problem started with the ac clutch not kicking in and we found a wire on the battery fuse box getting hot and discolored. Had not blown the link. The crimp joint looked bad so we shortened this wire and reconnected it. After a week now (girlfriend has car on a trip) the ac is not pulling the clutch in and will if she shakes the wire. So, she is not running the ac.
Pencilneck talks about a relay under the dash, could you give more imfo on this? Location, color etc.
What relay is under the battery?
And I have a Bentleys, is anyone else having problems reading the electrical diagraqms, its so greek to me....


Thanks in advance. Mike
 

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fcm

it's called an FCM fan control module that's mounted under the battery tray and everything pertaining to A/c and the fans run through it. Sounds like you have a lose connection on your battery fuse box.
 

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mike03 2.0 vert
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fuse box

it's called an FCM fan control module that's mounted under the battery tray and everything pertaining to A/c and the fans run through it. Sounds like you have a lose connection on your battery fuse box.

You might be correct and I think so too. I called Myra (she is on vacation) and had her pull each of the three fuses over the battery. After reinstalling them, she has not had a problem with the ac going off. She will be home to Memphis tomorrow evening and that is good news.

Thanks for the replies. Mike03
 

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Good

Good news and glad we were able to help-ya out :goodjob: but
that's only a Band-aid and when you get a chance fix it right by either replacing the fusbox or putting something on the connections so they won't get loose again, some kind of conductive grease or something.
 

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Thank U

Guys, I want to thank you for sharing all this information. This is my case.

When I turn on the AC on the fan position I could see the AC light turn on and can feel the compressor kicking in. BUT, when I move the position of the button to 1, 2, 3, or 4 the AC light shuts off and the air is fan air and not cold air.

I did this

1. Check the battery fuses (they are not melted) and change the position on them to make sure they were ok.

2. Bought a Fan Control Module and changed it.

I still have the exact same situation. AC light is on in the fan position, but then after hitting 1, 2, 3 and 4, it shuts off and no cold air.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 

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double post

Guys, I want to thank you for sharing all this information. This is my case.

When I turn on the AC on the fan position I could see the AC light turn on and can feel the compressor kicking in. BUT, when I move the position of the button to 1, 2, 3, or 4 the AC light shuts off and the air is fan air and not cold air.

I did this

1. Check the battery fuses (they are not melted) and change the position on them to make sure they were ok.

2. Bought a Fan Control Module and changed it.

I still have the exact same situation. AC light is on in the fan position, but then after hitting 1, 2, 3 and 4, it shuts off and no cold air.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
you already posted this in the 1.8t section.
 

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Mine is an 02 not 92. Hope you figured this one out. I would say it is the blend doors but I can guarantee a dealership will run you around for a few appointments before getting to the issue.
 

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Gonna go out on a limb and post an additional question here instead of starting yet another A/C thread.

I have a pretty significant leak in my A/C system to the extent that while charging the system with 134 w/uv dye I could see a cloud and the system wouldn't hold pressure.

Aside from the obvious "check for leaks" and "find the leak" does anyone have suggestions that could narrow the search given the leak is so significant? Just trying to work smarter based on the experience of the folks here on the forum.
 
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