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So I'm buying my brothers bug and it has a few issues that I want to get fixed as soon as possible. Thank you in advanced for your replies.

1) P0420 - So lets start with this one. When I first started driving the car it had a HORRID sound to it. Sounded like a go-kart. Turns out that bung for the o2 sensor connected to the manifold completely blew off. I took it to the shop to have the bung welded on only to find out that the manifold had a couple cracks on it. They welded the cracks and welded a new bung back to the manifold and replaced the o2 sensor. They also said that the rear o2 sensor was bad but I didn't have the money to replace it. The next paycheck I bought the o2 sensor (rear) and replaced it myself. It appears that didn't solve the issue. I know that in most cases p0420 is the cat, but my brother replaced it not too long ago. It was a universal cat but it is hard to believe that just having replaced it that its already failed. None the less, if you guys have NO cheap and easy checks or ideas of what this may be other than the cat, please let me know. Otherwise, I will be replacing it next paycheck.

2) Oil Light - So sometimes when I'm slowing down the oil light will come on and flash, then when I start accelerating, it goes off. Some days it does it more than ever. I have checked the dipstick but every time I check it shoes its more than full, I mean it's almost as if there is too much oil or it just isn't reading it right. I'm not an expert or anything but there isn't a special way to check the oil in these German cars is there? o_O I know its a stupid question but ugh, its confusing.



3) Temp Light - So this light (Blue) is on most of the time I'm driving. From what I have read I believe it is from the motor running too cold or the sensor. Well last week the light (Red) started to blink. After checking the reservoir again, I noticed there was next to no coolant, so for the time being, I added water. Sure enough it hasn't been blinking Red anymore, now it just stays blue or blinks blue. So if it was able to read that there was water in the reservoir, then isn't the sensor going to be fine?

4) Line hanging under car - So the other day while leaving work I noticed something hanging down under my car. After I got home, yes I know, I probably should have figured out what it was before I headed home but I don't know anything about this car yet. So after I get home I had my little brother, who is much smaller than me reach under and clip it into the clips attached to the underside of the car. Now it doesn't hang down anymore, but it looked like it had a little damage. I really don't want to be driving down the road and notice my brakes don't work or something lol. I will attach pics.




5) Window - The window hasn't been working for a while now (driver side). I just want to know if it would be cheaper to just replace the door or the window regulator or whatever it's called?

6) Temp changes - My brother has aftermarket gauges and he said that they aren't super accurate, so when I bring up the temp issue, he says don't worry about it, but I have a feeling that this may be linked to the coolant or oil issue. So when I'm driving the temp stays right around 178ish. When I stop or park, the temp slowly rises to above 220. Is this normal? Could this just be the gauges?

This is while driving -


This is after sitting for about 30 seconds -
 

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1 - Cat most likely does need to be replaced, call dealer with your VIN, there has been some extended warranties on some cars, they can tell you over the phone if any apply to your car. If you end up getting your own cat, beware of cheap aftermarket cats, they are worthless because they have too small of a core, you could end up with the same fault code again. I've seen this played out time and time again. A cheap cat is money wasted. I would rather roll the dice with a junk yard cat.

2 - Nothing special about checking the oil level. But oil level and oil pressure are 2 different things. I would suggest you have the oil pressure checked. Factory design should be +2.2 BAR at 2000 RPMs when the engine is up to operating temp. By chance, was the oil pan replaced and some one went all crazy with the sealant? The most common cause of low oil pressure is blockage at the pick up screen.

3 - Since the Beetle cluster doesn't have a temp gauge, it just uses that light. Blue means the engine is not up to temp. Now normally on a gasser, after 10 minutes of DRIVING it should be off. If the car is taking a lot of DRIVING before the blue light turns off, then maybe the thermostat is hung open. One way to tell, start the engine when stone cold and rev it at about 2000 RPMs. The upper radiator hose will warm up where as the lower hose will remain a lot cooler. Once the thermostat opens up, then the lower hose will get hot, quickly. However, if you find the lower hose is heating up like the upper hose, this would suggest the thermostat is hung open. The coolant temps sensor could be at play here, get the updated green along with a new o-ring from the dealer. Replace that sensor when the engine is cold, you won't loose that much coolant. Bonus tip, Beetle clusters suck, maybe you just have a bad instrument cluster.

4 - Your parking brake cables look like crap, suggest replacing them.

5 - Way cheaper to get a regulator repair kit if the cables are screwed up. But without any details I don't know what is really wrong with the window. Stopped working because the Door Control Module died? Wiring harness issue? Failed bowden cables? Broke power window switch?

6 - VW/Audi vehicles with temp gauges have a very large flat line when displaying the temp. In other words, the temp gauge will show just one reading, 180deg even though the actual temp could be 160 to 220 or something to that effect. When you drive down the road, a lot of air is pushed into the engine bay and cools the engine down. But when you stop, that air flow isn't there and the temp will rise until the coolant fans kick on. The factory temp gauges will not show this rise and fall to temps, just 180deg. Aftermarket gauges most likely will show that rise and fall in temp.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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1 - Cat most likely does need to be replaced, call dealer with your VIN, there has been some extended warranties on some cars, they can tell you over the phone if any apply to your car. If you end up getting your own cat, beware of cheap aftermarket cats, they are worthless because they have too small of a core, you could end up with the same fault code again. I've seen this played out time and time again. A cheap cat is money wasted. I would rather roll the dice with a junk yard cat.
The OP stated that its already been replaced with a Universal unit. So the extended warranty wouldn't apply. And AFAIK, that warranty is over no matter what...it was for AEG engines, 10 years/120k. AEG stopped in '01 I believe.

It is completely possible for the cat to have failed again if its a cheap unit, which it sounds like it is. But the best way to test everything is to get VAG-COM hooked up and check your measuring blocks for your O2 sensors and the like. That code is either O2 sensor(s) or the cat. What brand of O2 sensors were put on the car? Honestly, it could just be that the repair didn't hold or something and there is still issues with the bung/O2 sensor.


2. Get your oil pressure checked. As stated, that light is for pressure, not for level. It could just be a sensor but there could be a bigger issue. Low pressure isn't good for the engine.


3. If the light is blinking blue, then you likely have a bad coolant temp sensor. Cheap and easy to replace.


4. Not sure on that.


5. Does the window not work at all? Do any other things work from the drivers door? You may have to end up getting into the door and testing things.


6. Where is the gauge tapped into?
 

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5/23/10 <3
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In my experience they aren't total junk. I had a new cat put on my '99 a few years ago for under $200 for parts and labor. No issues with the rear sensor. Ran like a top after replacement for the year and a half I had the car until my accident.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
4 - Your parking brake cables look like crap, suggest replacing them.

5 - Way cheaper to get a regulator repair kit if the cables are screwed up. But without any details I don't know what is really wrong with the window. Stopped working because the Door Control Module died? Wiring harness issue? Failed bowden cables? Broke power window switch?
So those are the parking brake cables? That would explain why on a hill it moves a bit if I push on it.

And the window has to be taped up or put up with a door stopper. It will just fall all the way down. The button works and I can hear a "BZZZZZZZ" Like it is attempting to push it up or down but it isn't connected.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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Yeah, the parking brake cables have a plastic coating on them that gets damaged, water gets into it and rots apart the cable, thus making the outer cable shorter. The hardest part, by far, of replacing the cable is a metal retainer clip that "snaps" to the beam axle, have fun undoing that clip. Everything else about it is fairly easy.

If you hear a normal window regulator noise but no movement of the glass, then just swap out the window clamps with the updated version. If you hear a *crunching* noise when trying to operate the window, then the bowden cables are screwed, but again, the window repair kit has all the parts you'll need.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Yes, but its technically illegal, as you are removing emissions equipment. And you have to get a tune so you don't throw a code, or find a way to rig up the rear O2 sensor. I wouldn't advise it.
 

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Yeah, the parking brake cables have a plastic coating on them that gets damaged, water gets into it and rots apart the cable, thus making the outer cable shorter. The hardest part, by far, of replacing the cable is a metal retainer clip that "snaps" to the beam axle, have fun undoing that clip. Everything else about it is fairly easy.

If you hear a normal window regulator noise but no movement of the glass, then just swap out the window clamps with the updated version. If you hear a *crunching* noise when trying to operate the window, then the bowden cables are screwed, but again, the window repair kit has all the parts you'll need.

I am assuming below is what I need?

VW New Beetle Window Regulator Repair Kit Front Left | eBay
 
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