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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I've got a few problems I hope someone can help me with.

First, I had a problem with my MAF sensor several months ago and I cleaned it. Recently, the check engine light came on again and it's the same code as before (bank one too lean). So, should I try cleaning it again or is this a sign that I should get a new one?

Another problem that may be related to the MAF sensor is the "blue light" that shows the engine isn't warmed up. When it's cold or just cool (50s) it will come on and take a really long time to go off (15+ minutes of driving) and sometimes will never go off...or will come back on after going off for a while. I don't know what's normal, but this doesn't seem to be.

Finally, I have a problem with the ESP and ABS lights. Both came on and stayed on solid one day. I got home and totally forgot about it. The next day I go out and find I have a flat tire. I did some research and found that those lights may come on if a tire is going flat because it changes how quickly that tire spins. I've got the tire patched and have all tires at the same pressure, but the lights remain on. I'm only assuming the flat has something to do with it, so any suggestions? Also, what is the proper tire pressure for the 05 Beetle? I've looked in the door and under the gas lid, but I can't find anything about tire pressure. I've checked online, including this forum, and recommendations range from 25 to 45 psi. I've always kept all 4 tires at 32psi...

That's a lot of problems, but I'm a klutz mechanically, so I hope someone can help me out. Thanks in advance.
 

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To being with; a current scan of the vehicle would be helpful, a VW specific scan would be needed to read about the ABS/ESP issues with the car. When posting about trouble codes; please post the trouble code numbers and not the descriptions given by the scan tool.

Your "lean code"; could be related to a number of issues, if you could read your fuel trims, that could point you in the direction of what is going on. This would require; a scan tool that can read live data. A ELM 327 wireless obd II adapter device and a app like OBD FUSION would be a cheap solution or you could look into a hand held vw specific scan tool like the VAG401.

Learn more about fuel trim and what the readings can tell you:

Fuel Trim Info - Ross-Tech Wiki

Cooling System light:

As far as the "blue" light being on; it doesn't sound like it is acting like it should. Here are the different cooling system light modes:

Blue coolant light = engine cold
Flashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring system
Flashing red coolant light = low on coolant
Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified.


Again, this would be a case; where checking the engine coolant temps, should be monitored by a scan tool or the elm 327 and a app on your phone or tablet. It sounds like; it is possible there is a fault in the cooling system, typical issues being a bad thermostat or electrical issue with the wiring or coolant temp sensor failure. There should be a trouble code; related to this issue, typically one of these two:

17663/P1255 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Short to Ground

18613/P2181/008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System

As for the ABS/ESP issues with the car; I would want to see, what the trouble codes are related to the fault and warning light.

As for tire pressure; 28-32 psi sounds reasonable, typically the fuel filler door has a chart on tire pressures. They may have removed the sticker in the 05' model; check your user manual for info and you don't have one, maybe someone can chime in and tell you what their manual says.

Most of the time; they recommend psi ratings on how much weight you have in the car. I typically look at the tire companies recommendation and VW's recommendations and find a happy medium in the 28-32 psi range, some tires are really stiff at higher psi ranges leading to a bouncy or uncomfortable ride. Needless, to say; if you were going on a long trip and had the car fully packed with luggage and stuff, increasing your psi would probably be a good idea.

So, I would recommend investing in the ELM 327 ($10-$20) and a OBD II app ($10) or get the VAG401 ($50-$60) or both. These are available on amazon and can help us help you, you can save allot of money having these diagnostic tools and being able to read trouble codes, see live data will get you/us info to help repair your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, I have checked the codes with an ODB-II program. Here are the codes:

P0171 - System too lean
P2181 - Cooling system performance
P0300 - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P3081 - Manufacturer defined (this is a new one)

I forgot to mention the car does misfire, but only after it rains. After running for a few minutes, it's back to normal. So, I assume water must be getting in there somehow... I cleared all the codes and none have come back on in about two days, if that means anything.

I plan on getting the VAG401 as soon as I can, so I can update then.
 

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Moisture and misfires with the 2.0L; are classic signs of possible cracked coil pack. Check out this thread; for testing and replacement process:

VWVortex.com - DIY/Troubleshooting - Coil pack on 2.0 AZG, AVH, BEV, or BBW

If you do replace the coil; be sure to get a high quality oem part direct from vw or the original oem ELDOR or similar quality part (low quality aftermarket coils; are known to prematurely fail).

16555/P0171/000369 - Ross-Tech Wiki

18613/P2181/008577 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16684/P0300/000768 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16687/P0303/000771 - Ross-Tech Wiki

19537/P3081/012417 - Ross-Tech Wiki
 

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Blue temperature light is likely due to a failed thermostat that has a weak spring and opens too early. VERY classic problem with VW's and German cars in general.

DO NOT get fooled into thinking the problem is with the temperature sensor, more often than not the problem IS the thermostat.

On these cars the blue cold temp light should stay on for about 1 mile to 1.5 miles of driving then go off. But without an proper OBDII tool that supports Live/Realtime data you have no idea what the engine temperature really is. Most of these cars should operate right around 205F.

Read about thermostats and coolant temp problems in my signature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I got my VAG401 and messed with it a bit and looked at the trouble codes.

Some of these are redundant, but I found:

Engine
16555 - fuel trim, bank 1, system too lean
19537 - engine temperature too low. Sporadic.
18613 - performance malfunction in cooling system

ABS
00285 - ABS wheel speed sensor, front right (G45)

Transmission
01680 - ABS wheel speed signal, front right

This might be a stupid question, but does it matter if you have the car running with the VAG401?

Thanks to everyone for all your help.
 

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The VAG 401 has "live data" capability; so, the car would need to be running to "see" that information. As for; just scanning for trouble codes, the car doesn't need to be running but the ignition key, needs to be in the "on" position.
 
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