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Pretty sure there are not any bulbs; that are replaceable without de/re- soldering, on the circuit board.

Here is a testing and repair video: its for a Mk 4 Golf but the principles are the same:

If you want to test all the bulb locations; you can run the speedo cluster test mode with vcds (it will light up all the icons, the sounds will activate and sweep the gauges).

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Billymade, you’re right. I have a 1999 NB which didn’t light up some warning lights. I disassembled the instrument cluster and discovered that the LEDs were covered in black RTV (silicone rubber) preventing warning lights from being displayed.
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