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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi

I have been having problems with my ABs light coming on and bleeping from my vehicle - 2000 VW Beetle I carried out the VAG COM diagnostics please see the below codes that it brought up - can someone tell me if they know what is actually wrong with my vehicle.

Your help would be very much appreciated!

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels:
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 907 379
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: E7D33E4B85E81720006
1 Fault Found:

00538 - Reference Voltage
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent

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Address 03: DTCs cleared
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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-018-AQY.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 EJ
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V MOTR HS V04
Software Coding: 00031
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 6EDDCB6F2A124668C30
2 Faults Found:

18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000
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Address 17: Instruments Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 1C0 920 900 C
Component and/or Version: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V07
Software Coding: 01442
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
Additional Info: Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0Y2111165
VCID: 1B3BD2BB892083C0D4E
5 Faults Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01321 - Control Module for Airbags (J234)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01128 - Immobilizer Pickup Coil (D2) :confused:
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

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When you have intermittent problems on multiple modules like that the first things to check would be the battery fuse panel and the ground connections.

The fuse panel atop the battery case is a common failure point. Remove the negative battery cable first. Then check that all connections in the fuse panel are clean and tight. There is also the cable that runs from the fuse panel down to the positive battery post. Be sure it is clean an tight where it attaches at the battery post. See this:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/58382-99-repair-woes.html

Another common problem is at the main chassis ground connection under the battery. See this post:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/58973-caution.html

Good luck! Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your help will definately try this and let you know how everything works out!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When you have intermittent problems on multiple modules like that the first things to check would be the battery fuse panel and the ground connections.

The fuse panel atop the battery case is a common failure point. Remove the negative battery cable first. Then check that all connections in the fuse panel are clean and tight. There is also the cable that runs from the fuse panel down to the positive battery post. Be sure it is clean an tight where it attaches at the battery post. See this:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/58382-99-repair-woes.html

Another common problem is at the main chassis ground connection under the battery. See this post:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-liter-turbo/58973-caution.html

Good luck! Let us know what you find.
Hi Red99 - I checked out my battery fuse panel and connections as you had shown on the forums of '99 Repair Woes' and 'Caution' but there doesn't seem to be any problems although under my battery looks completely different to the 'Caution' forum that you sent me so I was unsure about how I would access the battery chassis grounding wire strap - do you have any ideas of how I could get to this or do you have any other possibilities of what the problem could be??

I have attached pictures of my battery situation at the mo.

Your help is very much appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Yeah, my battery tray is different also. I think it got changed in 2001 or something. The ground connection is under the battery tray. You will see 4 bolts on the bottom of the tray that need to be removed. There are also a few others around the edges that attach to the air filter housing and cable guides. Just remove those bolts as well and you should be able to wiggle it out. Removing the air filter housing completely may make it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi - I did like u said red please see my finding attached - did notice a loose connection on the cable coming from the fuse panel to the positive log, but may have just worked itself loose during the fault finding period, as I have tightened it up but it has made no difference. I have now run the Ross Tech software again this time using the Auto Scan as suggested by Ross Tech support see the log attached.

Saturday,02,February,2013,16:02:31:34115
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5 (x64)
Data version: 20121222



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Chassis Type: 9C - VW New Beetle
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 22 25 26 29 35 37 39 46 54 56 65 75

Mileage: 127930km/79492miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-018-AQY.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 018 EJ
Component: 2.0l R4/2V MOTR HS V04
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 6EDDCB6F2A124668C30

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ESP-F.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379
Component: ESP 20 CAN V002
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00222
VCID: E7D33E4B85E81720006

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: 0S AIRBAG VW5 0004
Coding: 12371
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 356F24030FC435B0C2A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: None
Part No: 1C0 920 900 C
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V07
Coding: 01442
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 1B3BD2BB892083C0D4E

Subsystem 1 - Part No: Ident
Component: Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0Y2111165
Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0Y2111165

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN V072
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: F0E15517B026D09851C

1 Fault Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

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Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AH
Component: 6P Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 00256
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 840909C7949EDC38854

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J1959801C
Component: 6P Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
Component: 6P Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

7 Faults Found:
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
01358 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Driver Side (E150)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00913 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Right Driver (E81)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)
35-00 - -

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Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.lbl
Part No: 1C0 035 186
Component: Radio BNO 0004
Coding: 00401
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: DBBB12BB49A043C094E

1 Fault Found:
00853 - Loudspeaker(s); Rear
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 

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It looks like all the intermittent problems with the ABS brakes, engine and instruments are gone. How far have you driven since resetting the error codes? Have you seen the ABS light on again? Why do you say that what you have done hasn't made any difference?

The other problems you see now are more likely to be real. I'm not sure about the steering angle sensor, but the problems in the Central Convenience are pretty common. Have you noticed anything unusual about the operation of the door locks or power windows? The mirror heating elements tend to burn out if the mirror switch is left in the center "heat on" position. Looks like an open circuit has been detected in one of the speakers as well. Are they all working?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
*
The ABS Alarm still sounds after tightening the cable so it has not resolved the problem.
*
From you quote you said ‘ after resetting the error codes’ I have not done this physically via the software, am I to assume this clears after unplugging the diagnostics cable or should I actually plug the cable back in and clear it via the software. Perhaps this is what I have missed - how do I clear the error codes??
 

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Disconnecting the battery seems to have cleared the codes. In your second set of codes the ABS error is gone. If the ABS light has come back on there should be another code stored. You should check and see if the same error is back again.

Normally you would clear the codes using the scan tool command. Just reading the codes or disconnecting the scan tool will not reset the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Red

I was told by Ross Tech support to carry out the diagnostics as follows-

Quoted from Ross Tech Support 'Please run an AutoScan and paste the results into an email as shown here:

Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour: Auto-Scan

[AutoScan]
Pick the chassis (VIN digits 7&8) from the dropdown menu
[Start]
When it is done, click on [Save]

That saves a text file here on your PC:

C:\ross-tech\VCDS\Logs\

This will allow us to see details regarding which modules are installed in this vehicle, how they're currently coded, and what (if any) fault codes are present.'

After I carried out the autoscan using the method above there was nothing on it about the ABS- I took the car for a short run and then ran the scan tool again compared log files but nothing has changed.

I have observed a ‘Clear DTS’ button is this the command I should use to clear the codes? As I did in fact click on it but I was warned that this should not be cleared unless the module fault has been resolved, so I did not proceed. Is this the scan tool command they are referring to below. Please confirm and that it will be ok to clear? (I have tried to contact Ross Tech support about this but they haven't answered me yet:() Thanks for your help Red I hope I can get this diagnosed properly because the beeping is still going off:confused:
 

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I would say that at this point you want to go ahead with "clear all DTCs." You have checked over the battery and grounds and tightened a connection that may have been loose. By clearing DTCs you can see if they come back and how long it takes. It may be the problem was a one-time thing that won't come back.

The ABS warning should not include any beeping, just the light. Are you sure this isn't something else like the "door ajar" beeps?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Red -the ABS light starts flashing along with the beeping sound not sure why but this is what the problem is!:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you think that the loose connection, uninsulated lead has anything to do with this fault - do you think i should should repair the cable and re-insulate? I have attached the pictures that I took when I tighten it.
 

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Well, if the ABS light has been on again there should be an ABS trouble code stored. Check and see what it is. You could also do a visual check on the wiring and connector on the ABS control module which is located below the brake booster. If you disconnect the connector the ignition switch must be off.

The condition of the cable in the first picture is not a problem. I would take the connection apart and use emery cloth to remove the corrosion from the two surfaces that make the electrical contact (lower surface of the cable lug and upper surface of the battery connector) and then reassemble. The upper nut in this picture is the one that can cause overvoltage in the electrical system if it is not tight.

For the ground connection in the third picture, same thing. I would remove the corrosion from the two electrical contact surfaces and reassemble. The condition here does not look too bad. The cable condition is OK (stands all look intact).
 

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problem

You found the problem look at all the corrosion under the Nut of the grounding wire...... Get that nice and clean with baking soda and regular tap water, then put dialectric grease to keep moisture off again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi guys

I got my dad to do like you said - but i do have trouble with starting my car as well so he tested my battery:

Before charging
SG Readings on each cell was around 1.22 to 1.23
Voltage was at 12.55
Load testing it bordered on the top side of the weak and bottom side of good on the meter

After charging
SG Readings on each cell was around 1.24 to 1.25
Voltage was at 13.01
Load testing it bordered on the top side of the weak area and bottom side of good area on the meter

So I am not sure .... should I get a new battery or what?

I have not put the battery tray back in case you want me to do anything else first so what do you guys think it should work now or buy a new battery??:confused:
 

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The ground connection and cable look to be in good shape. I don't see any problem there.

12.55 volts on the battery is not too bad, especially if the battery temperature was less than room temp. I judge my battery condition by the cranking speed at around freezing temp. Also, at freezing you should see more than 9 volts or so while cranking. Remove fuse 28 (fuel pump) and the engine won't start so you can check the voltage.

What is the temperature when you have trouble with starting? Are you using synthetic 0w- or 5w- oil?

Your battery seems like it is charging properly since the extra charging didn't change the load test result. Within 1 minute after the engine is started cold you should see more than 14 volts if the charging system is working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi Red

Thanks for this I will check this out with my dad ASAP I also forgot to tell you that the Ross Tech guy got back to me about the diagnostics with the auto scan this is what he said:

Thanks for the AutoScan. The ABS controller appears to be communicating except that the CAN Gateway shows a fault for missing messages from the steering angle sensor (which connects to the ABS controller). A low voltage condition such as from a weak battery can cause lots of odd faults. Unfortunately, intermittent problems can be hard to track down. You may want to have the car's battery tested and check for corrosion or loose connections at the battery and power supply wiring to the ABS controller

What do you think???? Where is the supply wiring to the ABS controller??
 

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What do you think???? Where is the supply wiring to the ABS controller??
The ABS controller is mounted to the wheel well under the air filter housing. With the air filter housing removed you can get to the electrical connector pretty easy. Make sure everything looks solid there.

The ABS fuses are the lower two green fuses shown in the very first image in this thread. Go ahead and pull them out and examine the contacts in the fuse panel. When you put them back make sure the contacts in the socket feel like they are clamping against the fuse.

What DTC(s) are you currently getting for the ABS?
 
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