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:(I have a 99 beetle 2.0 Automatic and I am at my wits end. I have so many problems going on with my car right now and I just don't know where to start. I just want to cry.The abs light stays on, the red brake light flashes but don't beep, my fans run on high all the time if the ac is on which causes my ac to build high pressure and now when I stop and am idling I can hear some noise like a some kind of pump whining almost like an ac compressor freezing up but I know it's not my ac cause I'm not even running it right now. I have read and read for 8 hours on this forum and it could be so many different things wrong! And I have already put sooo much money into this car! Please help!!!
 

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Okay let me try to better expalin: Alot of this started when my coil went out 3 weeks ago. I bought the car used 4 years ago and apparently the guy that had it before me did not take care of it. I have already had the water pump and timing belt replaced and because my daughter run it hot when the water pump went out I had the head reworked. The car has 135,000 miles on it. I read on here that the a regular computer won't read the abs codes, is that true? This car was my daughters but just wasn't reliable enough for my daughter when going to school so she had to get another car but I chose to keep this car because I just love the thing, and have no clue why! LOL!!
 

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Deb should probably move the responses from the other thread into this one, as this is a better spot for it, IMO.
 

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Okay here are the codes that I got: P0172B,P1237,P1238,P1239,P1240......I cannot get the computer to read the abs system.
I hope someone will be able to help me figure this car out!!:)
 

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By your codes (I think you had a typo in the first, suffixing it with a B)

16556/P0172 - System Too Rich, Bank 1

Possible Symptoms

  • Irregular behaviour
Possible Causes

  • Fuel system
  • Excessive fuel pressure
  • Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors
  • Leaking fuel pressure regulator
  • Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
  • Vapor recovery system
  • Air leaks after the MAF
  • Vacuum leaks
  • Improper seated engine oil dipstick
  • Stuck EGR valve
  • Oil overfill
  • Cam timing
  • Cylinder compression
  • Exhaust leaks before or near HO2Ss
17645/P1237 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit

Possible Symptoms

  • MIL On
  • Poor engine performance
Possible Causes

  • Fuse for injector
  • Wiring harness issue
  • Failed injector
  • Failed ECM
Possible Solutions

  • Inspect fuse for injector
  • Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual
  • Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual
17646/P1238 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Open Circuit

Possible Symptoms

  • MIL On
  • Poor engine performance
Possible Causes

  • Fuse for injector
  • Wiring harness issue
  • Failed injector
  • Failed ECM
Possible Solutions

  • Inspect fuse for injector
  • Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual
  • Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual
Retrieved from "17646/P1238 - Ross-Tech Wiki"

I can guess what P1239 & P1240 are going to be, can't you?

17647/P1239 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Open Circuit

Possible Symptoms

  • MIL On
  • Poor engine performance
Possible Causes

  • Fuse for injector
  • Wiring harness issue
  • Failed injector
  • Failed ECM
Possible Solutions

  • Inspect fuse for injector
  • Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual
  • Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual
Retrieved from "17647/P1239 - Ross-Tech Wiki"

17648/P1240 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Open Circuit

Possible Symptoms

  • MIL On
  • Poor engine performance
Possible Causes

  • Fuse for injector
  • Wiring harness issue
  • Failed injector
  • Failed ECM
Possible Solutions

  • Inspect fuse for injector
  • Inspect wiring to and from injector, see repair manual
  • Ohm test injector, replace if needed, see repair manual
Retrieved from "17648/P1240 - Ross-Tech Wiki"

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

Lets look at the last four (really one common) codes first. And look at the possible causes starting with the cheapest and easiest.

1) Injector Fuse - Central Electric Fuse Panel
Position 32 (lower group, center row, two down), 10A, Engine Control, injectors, Simply replace, but if you have a multimeter check the voltage on the hot side to make sure there is not a voltage problem to this point. While on the fuse block, and without deciphering the wiring schematics, to determine just what engine control these fuses are for (they are all labeled as such), check Pos 10 (upper group, third row down, fourth from the left), 10A, Pos 29 (lower group, left row, second up from bottom) 15A, and Pos 34 (lower group, center row, fourth down), 10A.

2) Injection Wiring
Visually inspect the wiring to and from the injectors, and the connections. I am going to have to get into the repair manual and read about checking beyond visual.

3) Ohm test injectors
Again, I'm going to have to get in to the Bentley Repair Manual and review the procedure.

Now the first code, some are easy, perform them, I should have the Bentley diagnostics for eveything else, but some are going to involve special equipment.

A least now you have an idea of what you are looking at. I don't see anything is major part or wise, unless you have to replace the fuel injectors, and I understand there are remans available at a significantly reduced cost. For the mileage on the vehicle, how much life is left, and the cost savings, if that is what is needed it may be the way to go.

In the meantime, someone may happen along, recognize the code pattern and have experienced or know exactly what the issues with yours may be. Or at least what is most likely, from their experience.

Btw, not to bring up a sore subject, but what is going on with the noise from the suspected a/c compressor clutch? If it seizes up your going to be dealing with other issues. As a temporary measure, maybe someone knows of a belt to take the compressor out of the loop, assuming of course this is the noise.

M.
 

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can you give us some idea of how long you have been driving since the head was re-worked? Did it drive correctly at at that time? Was the head "decked" to check for any warpage due to the overheating?

I know that with several other cars you have to be careful/experienced with decking the head because of the change in the timing belt tension. If your timing is off you would experience almost every symptom that you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To answer your question design, I have been driving the car since February and I'm not sure if the head was decked. It ran good for a few months and then it was like one day sitting at the red light it almost felt like it jumped timing and then started skipping but I was told it was the coil so we replaced the coil and it ran fine right after that but not even a week after that I started dealing with this shaking/vibrating feeling upon acceleration and the ABS issue also. So I have parked it until I can try and resolve the issue. I just can't afford to take it to the VW dealership and the closest on to me is like 80 miles and I have dealt with local shops with thing before and they are just part exchangers until they get the right one!
 

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well that's step one.

Start going through the injector harness and look for the simple things like frayed or broken wire insulation. Also make sure that all the connections are tight anywhere there is an electrical harness plug.

You mentioned that you replace "a Coil". did you replace all four or just one?

You could be running rich from an incomplete fuel burn, ala a bad plug or coil. Also run some really good fuel through the system if at all possible with some cleaner.

JB
 

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On the 2.0L, there is one coil pack, not individual coils like on the 1.8T.
 

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Post forthcoming, have to find the link...
 

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Start going through the injector harness and look for the simple things like frayed or broken wire insulation. Also make sure that all the connections are tight anywhere there is an electrical harness plug.
JB
This is a reiteration of what I already suggested, but it is the next step (at least the visual is a prt of testing the wiring harness).

You mentioned that you replace "a Coil". did you replace all four or just one?JB
OPer states it is a 2.0

You could be running rich from an incomplete fuel burn, ala a bad plug or coil. JB
This could be the cause of the first code listed, the P0172, pull the plugs and have a look, black, sooty deposits will indicate "too rich a fuel mixture", just won't tell you what is causing it. You will also see a black, sooty deposit on the inside of the exhaust pipe.
The other four codes have to do with electrical issues of the fuel injectors, that is the reason for the aforementioned "ohm" test (that is an electrical test) of the injectors. Although replacement of all four injectors could solve all five codes. But, I'm betting not.

Also run some really good fuel through the system if at all possible with some cleaner.
JB
All brands of gas today contain government mandated "cleaning" agents, each brand calls it something different, but essentially they are all the same (it's just sales pitch hype!).

As to a cleaner additive, don't waste your money, Here is an excellent, unbiased, read about fuel injectors, fuel injector seals, flow testing, cleaning, etc. Anyone who wants to learn something about fuel injectors should read this.
The SkyLife: Fuel Injector Flow Testing: Cleaning and Balancing Exlpained

MORAV
 

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didn't realize that there was only one coil on a 2.0. does that mean that you have changed the plug wires?


And yes I was only restating what Vette said.

After reading that article the pressurized cleaning seams the way to go if it is not an electrical issue.
 

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didn't realize that there was only one coil on a 2.0. does that mean that you have changed the plug wires?


And yes I was only restating what Vette said.

After reading that article the pressurized cleaning seams the way to go if it is not an electrical issue.
Glad you read that article on fuel ijectors, confimed many things I have heard from shops I have done business with. Without a doubt the best read I have ever found on the subject matter.

Giving this ongoing thought, and since the problem is common to all four injectors, and unless the car has been slowly deteriorating and these codes have been thrown one at a time over a period of time (although that may well be the case, "kids" are horrible about paying attention to things), I leaning away from the wiring unless it is upstream, and leaning away from an individual problem with each fuel injector, kinda narrows it down to the ECM. Going to have to learn a little more about the injector wiring system. I'm sure though having the fuel injectors tested and possibly cleaned wouldn't be money poorly spent. And after this issue is resolved, all of the remaining potential causes of the P0172 can be easily and inexpensively checked, if it is not taken care of with this resolve.

Just hoping someone comes along who has been in this same place, and/or with a little more knowledge of the injector electrics.

M.
 
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