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Discussion Starter #1
I spent a few hours yesterday researching and have pin pointed ( I think ) my problems... got a CEL, went to pep boys, and pulled a P0411 secondary air injection incorrect flow {actually the tech said two codes came up, both P0411, is that possible? )

After a cold start I can hear my air pump kick on (sounds like a vacuum right?) and I've also noticed it makes a rattling noise that occurs while the pump is going

from this http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-modifications/31906-article-air-injection-pump-diagnoses.html I got this information

"Air Pump Noises

You may encounter two general types of air injection pump noises. One is an annoying rattle that occurs only when the pump is operating. An alert customer may describe a rattle that occurs for a brief time after a cold start and then disappears until the next cold start. This usually tells you that the air pump's rubber insulators, such as those shown in photo 1 on page 18, are broken."


in addition to this, my boyfriend and I can hear a hissing noise on the driver's side but we haven't been able to pinpoint where exactly. I know I need to replace the lines simply because they look original and my baby's a 98 :rolleyes: I think I might be able to tackle that myself but oddly enough my boyfriend thinks I should take it to my mechanic (NO MONEY IN MY POCKETS THOUGH :( )

can someone please tell me what's the fix for the rubber insulators? the article mentioned a fix for a dislocated seal but nothing about the insulators
 

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P0411, from the Ross-Tech Wiki

Possible Causes, Diagnostics, and Possible Solutions

16795/P0411/001041 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected

Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Possible Causes

  • Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty
  • Hoses/Pipes to/between Components faulty/clogged
  • Secondary Air Injection Pump (V101) faulty
  • Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay (J299) faulty
  • Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) faulty
Possible Solutions

  • Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)
  • Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
    • Check Secondary Air Injection Hoses/Pipes for Carbonization
  • Check Secondary Air Injection Pump (V101)
  • Check Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay (J299)
  • Check Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
Retrieved from "16795/P0411/001041 - Ross-Tech Wiki"

Going to review you attachment and see just what you are talking about with the "rubber insulators".I see the rubber isolators you are talking about. First thing would be to get a visual and see if they are, in fact, bad. The fix would obviuosly be to replace them. You might be able to do this with rubber washers, but that is doubtful. Rubber washers probably will not be hard enough. The parts could be available through VW, although they may only come with the new unit.

As far as doing the resolve on the code issue, you can probably check for leaks and repair them if found, but without the proper VAG-COM set-up it's going to be tough to do any other diagnostics.

MORAV
 

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The isolators are availble from various sources. like ecs tuning and others . It takes 3 to replace them all. Easy to do, only one nut each mount. The tubing is also availble.
 

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Not too expensive: new beetle air pump mounts - Google Search
I had similar codes; I ended up:

1. replacing the broken mounts (fixed noisy pump)
2. replacing cracked hoses (they get very brittle over time)
3. replacing a egr valve that was faulty (in my case, the cause of the code)

I think #1 and #2 are the most common problems...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the info guys :)

would this be the rubber insulator I need? Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 > Search > Air Pump > ES#279476 Rubber Mounting - Priced Each - 06A133567A

and I believe it's recommended that I use silicon tubing like this: Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 > Search > Vacuum Hose > ES#250201 Blue Silicon Vacuum Hose (3.5x2) 3 Foot - 51731257971BLU-3 yes?

as for the fixing, anyone have any pointers or experience with this? I've read the How To for the lines but would like to know if I'll have to reach behind things in order to get the lines out and then back in... is it really as simple as it sounds? just pull off and then re-attach?

would replacing the rubber things be tricky?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ooops, thanks for pointing out that there are two different kinds of mounts... I guess mine's the older and more expensive one :/
 

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I don't think replacing the lines would be hard; just take your time... do one by one, so you don't get things mixed up.

The mounts are a little tricky as it is a tight fit in the front near the radiator; I undid the pump metal bracket, replaced the mounts and then put it back together. It is doable but it was not exactly fun! LOL! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not too expensive: new beetle air pump mounts - Google Search
I had similar codes; I ended up:

1. replacing the broken mounts (fixed noisy pump)
2. replacing cracked hoses (they get very brittle over time)
3. replacing a egr valve that was faulty (in my case, the cause of the code)

I think #1 and #2 are the most common problems...
just so that I can estimate how much of a loan I may need to take out if I do take my car to the mechanic, how long would you say it took to get all of that done? ( I like my mechanic but at $90/hr for labor, this college girl can barely afford tuition )
 

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Auto repair shops base their repair hours on "book rate"; they look up what the estimated time it takes to complete the job and charge accordingly. If you contact your mechanic; they should be able to tell you the costs and estimated repair time; I would also, call some other places too! Kinda, like getting a "second opinion" from a doc! These are pretty simple repairs; seriously, consider doing them yourself but have a buddy help you.. it will go faster and help you figure things out, if you overlook something or run into problems! As the saying goes: "two eyes are better then one", this is especially the case when working on cars! :) Get to it! You will save money and it is very satisfying to fix your own car! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I fnally took a look under the hood so that I can muster up the courage to replace the lines myself. I haven't taken off the engine shield yet but can see part of the air pump

How exactly do the rubber mounts on the pump go bad? do they crack and become loose? I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking for
 

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The rubber isolators connect the pump to the pump mounting bracket. They stop the vibrations from the engine from traveling to the pump and vise-versa. The heat from the engine compartment wreck them over time.

There are three spaced out around the pump to hold it. If you take the engine cover off you will see all of the air pump and the mounts. This is someting you can do and save the labor costs. I think the nuts are 10mm in size.The hoses are held on with a plastic clamp that you squeeze together to release it. Look at the top hose where it goes into the airbox and you will see what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Welp, the job is done. Wish it had been by me though. One thing's for sure, my boyfriend is going to get a good kicking. $90 for them to use a factory computer to diagnose my problem, for this time, and any more times in the future for a year if the light comes back on for whatever reasons. Fine, that's cool, I get a years worth of specific vw codes read instead of pep boy's generic. $11 for new hose, awesome. $80 to replace the vacuum lines, test drive it, and clear the codes. There wasn't really anything else wrong with the car.

No more CEL or food for me for the next couple of months :mad:

Thanks everyone for all of the advice <3
 
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